The Mauritius Adventure

ACHARD BILIMBI

2011-11-13T13:02:00.004Z

My feet are killing me after a 10km walk from Pereybere to Melville this morning so I'm relaxing - I've been trying to stay active, although I've given up the spinning I was doing for six weeks. Yes, I was probably fitter than I had been for a long time, but I just really wasn't in the right mental frame of mind and of course as usual at gyms, everyone else seems to be better at it than you. I liked the idea of being back on a bike again but I couldn't quite get my head around the idea of sitting on a bike and going nowhere... Still, I can now say I did at one stage of my life go to a gym for a sustained period of time. It hasn't changed my view on the 'type' of person who goes there though...

So five weeks to go (fingers crossed, and sparing any disasters such as putting a passport in the washing machine accidentally)... I was looking back through the blogs I'd written and noticed the first entry on the Mauritius Adventure from May 2009 was entitled 'Three months to go'... That seems a very long time ago now indeed and I remember the nervousness and the excitement as the time came nearer and nearer, the chance to do something I had always wanted to do - teach abroad. And now it's come full circle as I once again enter the stage of nervousness and excitement as I see its just 35 days before this chapter closes and another one opens back in the UK. I've been lucky enough to land a job as Head of History at the Pimlico Academy in London, albeit temporary, but what a place to go back to - back to the very reason I went to into teaching in the first place... to help those in inner-cities. I'm a touch nervous - I was eaten alive during my NQT year but I know have ten years' experience behind me. I remember hating that NQT year - not only do you know you're not a very good teacher, but you also haven't developed any strategies in how to deal with that fact! Its a sad case that nothing beats experience, the one thing you can't teach...

I'm busy trying to cram in as much as possible in the time I have left - and that includes trying to eat as much achard bilimbi as possible - a better complement to fish dishes there is not. One thing I will miss - the tastes of this island. Wow - and whilst I know of at least four Mauritian restaurants in the UK, will they be able to recapture the authentic taste? In half-term I went to Casela - which just gets better everytime, now with the added safari so you can have the delight of ostriches poking their beaks into your land rover and causing chaos. Great fun - certainly for the hoardes of Indian tourists there. It looks like the Mauritian strategy to tap into the Indian market is working - and China too... with Europe seemingly up the spout (not sure many will cry for Berlusconi who announced his resignation today!) its a good move. The day after Casela it was Bois Cheri - one place on the island I had never been to before. I'd certainly considerably contributed to their profits over the past two years and so I was keen to see how those vanilla teabags came into being. Its quite a drive but well worth it - on the approach you see the tea being picked by hand and then get a guided tour of the factory - complete with smells to die for! Perhaps the highlight was the tasting at the restaurant - what a location, On a hill overlooking fields of fields of tea and a rather beautiful landscaped lake. Having a rather lovely companion with you helps, but being able to taste all the types of tea Bois Cheri make, accompanied by a crepe or waffle of course, also adds to a great day out. On the way back I couldn't not stop off at Grand Bassin and have a walk round one of the holiest sites in Mauritius which was very uplifting. The playful monkeys running around added to the atmosphere. The only down side to the day was driving past Mare aux Vacoas - looking rather worryingly empty. It was not surprising to get a copy of L'Express later on that week with the headline 'Mare aux Vacoas at its emptiest for ten years.' - there has hardly been any rain this year and indeed in the two and a half years I have been here, its been pretty dry - only one week I can really remember in Rose Hill where Inkerman Street became Inkerman River. I'm no expert, so I don't know what the solution is, but perhaps being more proactive than just 'wait for the rain' might help... The day finished with a trip to Bagatelle - the brand new shopping complex near Rose Hill. Whilst most prices were out of the reach of most Mauritians, it certainly had a UK-style feel to it and I particularly liked the Food Lovers' Market - reminded me of Harrods food hall with all the fruit and veg beautifully displayed, oysters on sale and a sushi bar in the middle. Unusually for a Mauritian shop there seemed to be HUNDREDS of cashiers too meaning no waiting time. I stocked up with some incredibly juicy pomegranates.

Mauritius' first designated cricket pitch continues to take shape next to Anjalay. That is a good sign for sport here - sadly, and talking of Anjalay, Mauritius pulled out of the qualifiers for the 2014 World Cup before a ball was kicked. They were due to play Liberia home and away, allowing me to see my fifth African national team, but alas, due to 'lack of money' Club M pulled out. For football fans this is sad because the real reason is much more political. Two rival groups were bidding for control of the Mauritian FA and one simply threw their toys out of the pram. As a result, and for someone's ego trip, we're denied the chance to see any football. Privatisation of the Mauritian FA is often mooted, as is professionalism, sold as the 'only way football will improve on the island' Not strictly true - it would help, but putting people who actually like football in charge might help, along with trying to actually generate a sporting culture instead of locking up sports facilities. Give students more sports facilities and they will use them. Sport, it seems, is just an excuse to build a big stadium for some event (the Indian Ocean Youth Games for example), show off a bit, and then neglect it... Anajlay, George V, these stadia could be in such good condition... but once they've had their 'show off' value, who needs them? I am sure, with MCB behind it, cricket will take off - largely because they want local schoolchildren to come and use the facilities which they will provide... all of this is such common sense, but it seems there are hidden agendas elsewhere.

I will miss many things - of course I have the occasional moan but overall this has been a wonderful experience. I have learnt much and seen a way of life I would never have done had I stayed 'back home'. Mangoes and coconuts straight from the tree are a cliche, but I've loved that. I've had the honour of teaching some amazing students, working with some great people and I haven't had to wear a coat for two years... More importantly I think its helped my two beautiful kids become more worldly, become fluent in French and Creole and understand their Mauritian heritage. My daughter, Amelie, was five on 11/11/11, sadly I was unable to be with her as they are back in the UK already. On that day I gave a Remembrance Day assembly (helped by some great students who made enough poppies for the whole school) and whilst I was busy pointing out Poppy Day may have been a 'British thing', remembrance certainly isn't, I also had half an eye on Amelie. Regarding remembrance, Mauritians died in WW1 and WW2 and worryingly not many Mauritians know this - interestingly next year will see the 90th anniversary of the erection of the WW1 memorial in Curepipe. I probably won't be around on the island to see it, but who knows, never say never...

THE BEGINNING OF THE END - OR THE END OF THE BEGINNING?

2011-09-25T10:30:00.002+01:00

Paraphrasing Churchill seems quite apt as I write as it appears the Mauritian Adventure (9,236 page views according to blogger stats) may be coming to an end. Yesterday I had to skip football coaching and venture down to a baking hot Port Louis to finally purchase my ticket back ‘home’ – Emirates offering to take me back to debt-ridden, unemployment packed UK on the 18th December. It was an act tinged with sadness – I have thoroughly enjoyed my two and quarter years here, and I don’t really want to leave, but this is a decision led primarily by my darling two children – we’ve come to the decision that this is the best for them, and as we know we’ve gotta put our kids first. They have had a wonderful two year cultural experience, learning French and Creole and discovering their Mauritian heritage… I firmly believe it can do nothing but make them more worldly people. As I write they are settled back in Bedford and enjoying school – they tell me often on the phone! As someone who didn’t even travel abroad (excluding one day trip to Boulogne) until I was 15, I envy their experiences.

My experiences have been amazing too. I was going to attempt a précis but trawling back through the blogs has left me with a list too long to even try to narrow down. I’m going miss the wonderful students of Northfields – they have really made my time in international education a delight. Teaching abroad was on my list of things to do before I die and I am so glad I have done it – in fact, thank you Mauritius and thank you Northfields because it is something I want to do again. I have worked my socks off for Northfields, so I hope the door will always be open. Never say never in life…

After my August sojourn in the UK I arrived back shortly before Ganesh Chaturthi, the 10-day long festival where Ganesha is worshipped and offered gifts in return for him ensuring wisdom and prosperity for the year ahead. It was in fact a week with two public holidays meaning I had to be quick on the day ‘in-between’ to get done all that I needed to – various levels of bureaucracy awaited me at BAI, the Post Office etc but in general things get done relatively efficiently – I’m very much in the Mauritian mind set of how to do things – you get used to it and in some ways its better than the UK because you know at least things will get done eventually – in the UK (worryingly seeing 2.5m unemployment – just the time to be going back!) there is no guarantee things will get done! Touching down at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Airport was strange – I didn’t know what I was expecting but it felt like being home. My loyal taxi driver Vinod (he will be bankrupt after the 18th December!) was waiting and I went straight to school, where sadly I arrived just in time to miss the staff meeting…There was also the usual pilgrimage to Pere Laval’s shrine in Ste Croix on the 9th December – quite a sight and the accompanying services are always uplifting when seen on TV. Laval died in 1864 and thousands still flock to his coffin to seek help for health and other ‘domestic problems.’ I’m not sure myself, but if he gives people hope, the great. One could argue that so does heroin, but that would be a controversial statement…One thing that cannot be denied is that Père Laval did do a lot for the poor blacks of Mauritius who, despite claims that there is no communalism here, have been and continue to be overlooked by the powers that be on this island. Père Laval arrived on the island in 1841- six years after the British ended slavery – and was shocked that although technically free, blacks were certainly not economically free. He was a trained doctor and offered his services free of charge as well as helping to unite the disparate range of reformist groups under one banner and worked to improve relations with the sugar barons who still ruled with an iron fist from the French period.

My third academic year has started well – all involved have just about got their heads around the two week timetable and the combined A-Level and IB system which I fought hard for to allow students the most flexible choice possible is going well. Its not been easy to implement but NIHS can now proudly say we can meet students’ needs more so than anywhere else on the island. Its odd to walk around the campus (which I adore!) knowing that I may not ever see it again in three months’ time – but I am not giving up. I am far too professional for that and will my students in the best position possible for their exams. Even the amazing Form 4 group I know have who have chosen History at IGSE has not been enough to make me stay…

It’s nearly October now and I enter my third summer on Ile Maurice. I feel I’m dealing with it better and even though Grand Gaube is considerably hotter than my beloved Rose Hill, I’ve adapted…you know when you can walk, how far and also when to call for the taxi or hop on the bus – the 178 from Mme Azor to Merville being a God send at the moment – stopping right at the end of the dirt path leading to my pad. I’m growing more and more fond of Goodlands too, although it takes time to find out what the shops are actually specialists in. With 361 and Canal opening shops there its becoming a place where you can go for everything.

The whole island does have a buzz of ‘going forward’ about it at the moment – Bagatelle is almost finished, the development at Grand Baie looks on track, roads keep cropping up all over the island (you will soon be able to avoid Port Louis altogether – something Raj Heeralall said would never happen!) and perhaps even more incredibly ICAC is actually doing something about corruption on the island. Yes, it looks like Jugnauth might finally be thrown to the lions over Medpoint (only a cynic would say that this was to save Ramgoolam!) and about time too – how brazen of him to carry on for so long maintaining paying himself 144.7 million rupees for the Medpoint clinic was all above board and fair… Watch this space to see what happens to Dr Rashid Beebeejaun and Rajesh Jeetah – finally, lets hope, those involved in corruption get what they deserve…

An interesting group has sprung up on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/groups/azirmaurice/ - led by
Jameel Peerally. It now has over 20000 members and on the 10th September they arranged a march against what the youth see as what is wrong in paradise. They did not feel the need to go into UK-style rioting – that is just not the Mauritian way of doing things – but they made their point strongly that communalism, corruption and political instability are affecting the chances of the youth. Typical of the comments on Facebook is this, from Peerally himself, which I repeat here and hope he will not mind me doing so. He writes “Whatever happens we shall go forward and achieve a NEW MAURITIUS! This deal cannot be done if the regime that has been in place for 40 years become our allies, which includes all POLITICAL PARTIES. They have all been in government, opposition and have made alliances together in the past. They created division and corruption in the land. This new era is one which will be carried forward by fresh blood and a new vision. This will be a time of renewal, of re-building and re-birth. Vive Moris!” There is understandable anger out there – the rich on this island are getting richer and not always by fair means. Peerally maintains the young have to work intelligently for the future – something the UK could learn from. Is it no coincidence that not long after the march, ICAC stirred from their slumber. We could be in for interesting times – it is a shame I will not be in paradise to see them.

SIX DAYS WITH THE STONES

2011-08-10T09:28:00.000+01:00

` History is only just beginning! Despite what our smug right-wing commentators such as our good friend Fukuyama believe, history is indeed just beginning, far from ending with the final victory being that of capitalism. We of course knew this all along didn’t we – a certain bearded German leftie predicted it and Fukuyama and his gang spoke too soon. Capitalism is in the process of destroying itself and all we can do is sit back and watch. Unchecked greed, as history of course tells us, leads to disaster and watching the FTSE fall below 5000 (and yet there is still this amazing blind faith that stock markets can only ever go up and up – like we didn’t learn from 1929), America’s credit rating be downgraded, the corrupt and incompetent politicians in Greece and Italy bringing the Eurozone down… I’ve been telling my students for a long time we’re now entering a new era of history. China of course being that way ahead – using Fukuyama’s logic, it would appear Communism has actually ‘won’…

As you may know I am back in Blighty for a few weeks to catch up with people I haven’t seen for two years – two years in Mauritius seems to have gone very quickly! It’s been great to see my family, old school friends and I’ve even been able to meet up with some former students of mine who are just about to enter their third year at university, making me feel very old indeed. Not too much appears to have changed in God’s Own Town although there is a Tesco Express on the High Street, Shoe Zone has moved from the bus station to Midland Road and a nice shiny new waste of taxpayers’ money statue has been erected in Silver Street. Thousands of new houses appear to have gone up too – its just a shame no-one can afford them. Good to see that recent data shows only 20% of house sales are now first time buyers. Doesn’t really solve the problem does it? The rest are there for ‘developers’ to snap up and rent out at extortionate rates. These people, however, are seen as successes. They have worked hard for their cash so are entitled to it. Teachers, doctors and other scummy employers of the state don’t work hard and should not be entitled to good pensions… page after page of misinformed biased bigotry comes off the Daily Mail presses complaining about public sector pensions - its an obsession, fair enough – but the outrageous thing is that teachers work hard for them. Until you’ve been a teacher, you simply cannot comment. Someone working in finance shuffles a few bits of paper, screws the whole country over (but still takes home a huge bonus) and they are deemed to have worked ‘harder’ and therefore deserve more cash. Ridiculous.

I simply cannot believe the price of things here now – coming back from Heathrow, I had to do a double take when I saw the petrol prices. Gas prices and electricity prices likewise. Wholesale gas prices and oil prices are of course coming down but these are not passed onto the consumer because in this unethical monetarist desert profit is king and customers are to be exploited. Its an age where HSBC can announce £7bn profit and 30,000 job losses at the same time and where profiteering is seen as acceptable. Interest rates are at record lows and yet banks are offering mortgages at rates much higher than the base rate… the list could go on, but god forbid any sort of governmental control. What a distasteful concept – how can I exploit other people if there is some sort of government control? To this people ethics is a county just south of Suffolk.

This all led me to a situation where I was despairing that people were doing just their usual ‘tut’ ‘tut’ and getting on with life, the ‘we’re all in this together blitz spirit’ approach of the Brits. In France the people would never allow themselves to be ridden over roughshod like this. They’d be storming the Bastille once again (to free the seven prisoners that were actually held in there but don’t let the truth get in the way of a good propaganda story)… It was therefore great to see the riots – spontaneous acts of anger and frustration at people under 35’s current lack of hope and lets face it, their anger at the failure of socio-economic policy over the past 30 years – how much has actually changed since the time of Broadwater Farm, Brixton and Toxteth. Before the night was out you could have predicted the areas that would ‘erupt’ (good to see BBC News and Sky News kept a few burning cars in context…) About time people stood up to this – the forgotten people, the youth with no chance of house ownership or the free education that the Baby Boomers had, the very Baby Boomers who did so well out of short-termist Thatcherism and have now rendered life very difficult for the following generations… As for the Tories, well they are in their element – cut, cut, cut and of course they have the credit crunch to blame. The Tories don’t care for the inner-cities much – anyone can pull themselves out of poverty if they work hard enough (I sense a 1910-style deserving vs non-deserving poor circular debate coming on)… Cut youth clubs, cut initiatives (or as the Daily Mail would say ‘politically correct nonsense), but at the same time allow banking to carry on unchecked – even when we, the people, own most of them – and what do you think will happen. Eventually the people will get so fed up someone will do something – where have we seen that before? Its great to see Cameron, Osborne and Gove out of their depth – a certain shadenfreude there, and its great to see with all that is going on they still continue their war against anything owned by the people – NHS, the BBC etc… their paranoia of anything state-owned is almost laughable. That BBC is always out to get us etc etc. British Rail of course had to go – although funnily enough they don’t mind using public money to generate private profit – the ‘private’ railway companies receive more subsidy now than they ever did and we are paying more for journeys – but hey, a short-term privatisation got a few Tory cronies lots of money and that is all that matters...(see the excellent Signal Failures column in PrivateEye every fortnight). At least the riots show an end to the Emperor’s New Clothes approach – everything is NOT ok…

Everything wasn’t ok for me either recently. I had six days with ‘The Stones’ – and whilst I wish I was on tour with them, well forty years ago perhaps, I had problems with kidney stones which in short led to six days in hospital, an operation on my bladder and five weeks with a plastic stent inside me making me need to go to toilet every five minutes. Ok, it flushed me out, but it meant limited mobility – the day after it came out I was able to go to football practice, do two long walks and even managed a bus ride to Port Louis - hardly a Freedom Ride in the Civil Rights Struggle context, but certainly a freedom ride in my mind. Take my advice, cherish your mobility while you can! Being back in Blighty has helped me recover – and I’m slowly ticking off my things to do list – Tesco Wraps, cheap books in charity shops, cheap DVDs and Wii games at Games Exchange, Subway, Bedford Library – all these things put the Great into Great Britain. How much longer it continues to be Great remains to be seen.

A THROBBING METROPOLIS

2011-05-09T05:41:00.011+01:00

Hello from Grand Gaube! And (almost) in the words of that ‘not playing to stereotypes at all’ advert for Australian Tourism that used to be on UK TV ‘So where the bloody hell were you?’ I know its been a long time and my absence can be explained by ‘the great move north’ – the kind of move that wouldn’t raise an eyebrow in the UK but over here seems like some kind of great Boer Trek. Monsiuer Lal (or more correctly his sons) were perfect professionals once again and managed to get all our stuff from Rose Hill to Grand Gaube in just two lots and without breaking anything. Seeing how packed the first lorry was, I was a little concerned but I shouldn’t have doubted Lal Industries. They have never let us down yet and come heartily recommended! Even the banana plant suffered no noticeable injuries… Thanks also to Northfields' Deputy Head, a certain Mr Gerry Young, who helped out with the ‘delicates’ (!) – by which I mean TV and PC…

As you can imagine, the throbbing metropolis that is Grande Gaube is a big change from Rose Hill! Firstly – the heat! After the breezy and mosquito-free atmosphere and bearable temperature of up on the central plateau, its been like going back to those first few months after arriving in 2009 when we statyed at Port Louis. The air is hot and still and the humidity is high. Obviously, after the washing machine the biggest priority was a great big fan. Courts in Goodlands came up trumps and there was one on promotion. Never have I put together something so fast…! I am slowly getting used to this heat – generally means doing even less than the menial number of things I was doing anyway. Monday morning I was even almost cold when I got up - but then again it is 'winter'... I have had to call on my good friend John Mertl who has told me he has a portable air con unit for sale… I might be able to sleep properly again when I finally get down to Albion to pick it up.

I’ve never lived in the countryside before either – give me urban grit any day…(quick flashback to those halcyon Harringay days) but its yet another experience in life. The view from the bedroom windows is of greenery and forest, the guava tree gives off a beautifully strong citrusy aroma in the mornings and Mynah birds come to eat bread off the patio. I’ve only had to chase one rat away so far and to add to the authentic ‘countryside experience’ there are the herd of goats across the way, the crowing of confused cockerels at 2am and the constant barking of Lucy, our dog, as she chases everything that moves convinced it is trying to break in. She’s a great guard dog but trying to explain to her to be a bit quieter at 4am is just not working. She’s certainly happy that she has a lot of space to run around in – haven’t had to take her for a walk yet but I certainly need to – slowly getting to know my surroundings.

Then there is Grande Gaube itself where, to be frank, not huge amounts happens compared to Rose Hill. I even have to go into Goodlands to go to the bank or post office now, although I’ve found a place that does great rotis. The beach is certainly quiet – have been there a couple of times and found crabs and various other sealife with Jacob and Amelie, and its fairly free of tourists – other than the Paul et Virginie Hotel. Its great fun to walk across ‘their’ beach – no beach is allowed to be privately owned in Mauritius, although they recently tried to charge people just for landing on Ile aux Cerfs. Being on the beach when the fishing boats come in is a bonus – you can’t buy it any fresher and having just been here two weeks I’ve already had my fill of tuna and parrotfish straight off the boat I am sure I will find ‘all’ of ‘the’ places in Grande Gaube eventually – although I’ve been warned off the fishermen’s bars so will give them a wide berth.

Canal+ came in record time though – you could have knocked me down with a feather when Mr TV Engineer turned up two days after we moved in – happily allowing me to see Arsenal beat Man Utd and keep the title race open. Us Luton fans haven’t been interested in the Premier League for a long time now, but how the ‘greatest League in the world’ can have only two possible winners seems to be a bit pointless. Stoke fans calling Arsenal ‘boring’ was – how Pulis dare calls himself a manager I don’t know. How can he be happy besmirching football’s name with Stoke’s ‘style’ – with Howard Wilkinson, Graham Taylor and Sam Allardyce now out of the game, those of us believers in the beautiful game thought we were winning. In my view, goals created by Rory Delap should not be allowed. Still, if it’s the only way they can win, them we need to sympathise with them. Luton’s win against Wrexham cheered me up – after drawing so many under Brabin, I was expecting yet another one. I was beginning to wonder why Brabin had replaced Money anyway – but the fans got what they wanted and a 3-0 victory too! Roll on Tuesday and bring on the Wombles in the final. Revenge for the travesty of the 1988 FA Cup Semi… Congrats to Norwich too – I have received several very happy e-mail from a certain Mr Martin Webb this season and I expect another one Monday too… Its not all happiness on the technology front though – we have to erect our own telegrapgh pole to get a phone line and internet. The landlady’s brother-in-law wouldn’t give permission for a line to cross his garden from the current pole so his deliberately difficultness has led to the need to people coming back Monday… Still, this is Mauritius and things get done eventually…

Saturday saw the ‘Open Day’ at Northfields for IPS students – another is to follow later in the year for other schools. I thought we put on a good show and I’m happy to report most parents seemed impressed. We managed to get across the fact that we know what we are doing, we know what we’re offering and we know where we are going. As this is the island of gossip there’s been a lot about us on various blogs etc, mostly people trying to put us down. I’m not too worried because when people try and do things like that its because they’re obviously scared of the progress Northfields is making. We are a young school, going places, heading to the next level. When you look at how well qualified our staff are for example, its scary…

At this stage I have to give a shout out to the Lower 6th, otherwise they won’t shut up about it. They’ve accused me of trying to brainwashing them into hating Mussolini and liking Stalin but I am yet to see where they have got this idea from. They are a great group though and I am really enjoying teaching them at the moment. I was also pleased to see the Form 5s turn up for revision sessions and its clear they’ve been revising hard too. Good luck as well to the Upper Sixth… IB is not easy!

I’m trying to be a bit more healthier myself and so Sunday morning I treated myself to a 7km walk from Grande Gaube to Cap Malheureux. Obviously it was a bit hot, and perhaps I should have worn trainers rather than flip flops but I felt good and was even in the process of walking back before it started to rain (in Mauritius? Still newspaper stories about how empty Mare aux Vacoas is) and I opted for a taxi – 200 roops well spent, although I aim to do a lot more walking. The other day a taxi driver tried to sting me for 600 roops to Pereybere from Grande Gaube. Hilarious – although the fact he kept such a straight face was worrying. I told him I could get to Rose Hill for that price. “Oh, you’re local” was his reply – this was of course outside the Paul et Virginie Hotel so God knows how regularly he fleeces tourists. I knocked him down to 200 rupees and took the bus anyway… Maybe I’ve finally learnt something after 20 months here?

No, I am no mentioning Bin Laden – but I will mention a couple of other news snippets, perhaps most interestingly the Japanese tourist who was ‘surprised’ to be robbed at Grand Baie. He lost belongings worth 50,000Rs ‘between 1am and 8am’ when he had gone out – neglecting to say where he was at this time, although I bet it starts with strip and ends in club. Mysteriously the place he was staying in has an alarm system and the police are puzzled. I mean, there could never be an inside job in Mauritius could there? Both the main political parties had their usual May Day rallies and no-one really said or did anything new, leaving us with the depressing Britainesque situation where both the major parties say exactly the same thing, only Mauritius doesn’t have a hapless Clegg type figure at the moment – maybe Jugnauth and his Medpoint type scandals that seem to dog him at the moment, although the press aren’t so questioning here. More deaths on the roads too – one young guy died when his moto crashed on the Triolet bypass – surprise, surprise he was under the influence of alcohol. When will people learn? On a nicer note, Mauritius is the fourth best place in the world for weddings according to the Toronto Sun… it didn’t say what place it ranked for taxi drivers ripping you off, but I am sure there a lot lot worse places. Like London for example. Still loving living here though – wouldn’t change it for anything and long may it continue.

SWEET IS THY FRAGRANCE...

2011-03-14T04:47:00.000Z

Happy 43rd birthday Mauritius! Its come a long way since independence and still has a long way to go, but in terms of political stability and relative economic success its done enough to be considered an African success story. Indeed, no less a man than Joseph Stiglitz, the winner of the Nobel Prize for Economics who recently visited us said we are “one of the best countries in the world” in terms of economic diversification, so Saturday’s public holiday was very much deserved (and appreciated, although it meant Jacob missed swimming!) Indeed, the Independence Day issue of the News On Sunday where the great and the good were invited to comment on the island past and present made promising reading.

We are told that Mauritius provides free education for all (of varying standards), free transport for all school children and the elderly and free health care including heart surgery for all (once again of varying standards). 87% of Mauritians own their own house, GDP growth has grown faster than 5% annually for the last 30 years and per capita income has increased from $400 in 1968 to around $6,700 today. In short, an economic miracle.

However, these commentators always seemed to end their viewpoints with a word of warning – Georges Chung Tick Kan reminds us ‘more growth is often accompanied with more anti-social behaviour if the wealth is not more evenly distributed’; Prof Abed Peerally warns that ‘the rising cost of living needs to be monitored’ and Dev Virahsawmy opines that ‘we shall have to rethink our food strategy.’

Our own school celebrations were held on the Friday with Navin’s official letter to all schools read out and Pamela Dundoo giving an inspirational speech which the students would do well to heed! We all belted out the national anthem – I always chuckle at the line ‘sweet is thy fragrance’ because instead of thinking of all the wonderful aromas this island offers, I can’t help thinking of the Princes Tuna factory that I pass on the way to, and back from, work, the overflowing sceptic tanks after a heavy rainfall and the meat section of Port Louis market… all pungent aromatic delights!

Anyway, the flag was raised and the whole ceremony was short and sweet so everyone went home happy. The food afterwards was rather tasty, if a little overshadowed by the news from Japan – 8.9 on the Richter scale is just incredible. Of course such devastation is impossible to comprehend and the worry and fear was spread further afield with the mention of the word ‘tsunami’ which always gets small islands panicking. Luckily for Ile Maurice we don’t seem to have been affected. Other islands might not be so lucky… indeed, Mohamed Nasheed, President of the Maldives was thanking his lucky stars he was here on a state visit. He was guest of honour at the Indpendence Day celebrations at the Champ de Mars including the traditional march past, dance, parade of floats and fireworks. I actually got to see Mr Nasheed in the flesh, albeit very briefly, as coming back from Ste Croix on Sunday, his motorcade zipped past us on the motorway.

Friday wasn’t the only half-day we had last week. We’re still getting bursts of quite heavy rain – and last Monday we were sent home early by the government due to the torrential rain engulfing the island. I’ve seen quite a bit this year so far (thankfully) but this was the heaviest yet. The government closed all schools so we could get home safely in case of flooding - and some areas were heavily flooded – streets became rivers in many places across the island. Ironically, once I’d picked up the kids from school and we got back to Rose Hill, the rain stopped, the sun came out and we had a nice afternoon on the patio! We’re still getting a bit of heavy rain – as I write (or type!) its pouring again as it seems to do as night falls at the moment. Sadly the internet has been down since Friday – and even more sadly I’ve realised how dependent I am on it, not just for downloading TV but for staying in touch with the outside world. Having to text Ryan in Australia to find out England screwed it up against Bangladesh in the World Cup reminded me of when I first arrived here. Orange say someone will come and have a look on Monday – but who knows? This island is great to live on unless something breaks… then it’s a voyage into the unknown!

Apparently some of my Form 5s have been reading my rantings and claim they are interesting. They are probably just trying to get good marks but to return the sycophancy, I will hereby give a shout out to the form 5s and say I am proud of you – marking your work at the moment is enjoyable and its clear you are working hard on revising for your IGCSEs. The Form 1s quite impressed me on Friday too – as it was day of the Independence Day celebrations I prepared a worksheet of nine possible candidates and asked them to choose who the ‘greatest Mauritian ever’ was. Frighteningly most of the Mauritians they could mention during the starter were either French or British – Labourdonnais, Pierre Poivre, Farquhar etc but once I handed out the worksheet it was good to know they’d heard of P’tit frere, Malcolm de Chazal, Stephane Buckland and Kaya – talking of whom, I treated myself to Mo Enkor La, his greatest hits album. I could listen to Simé la Limière, Fam dan Zil and Ras Kouyon all day long… It’s a shame the police killed him in 1999. Anyway, I don’t want to spark any more riots, so lets move on… Form 1’s responses to the question varied but once again I was really pleased with how they approached it, coming on the back of some excellent projects about the Ancient Egyptians.

The Medpoint affair rumbles on. The Rt Hon Dr Ramgoolam wisely avoided the word corruption in this year’s speech handed out to all schools to read. In short, the state has purchased the MedPoint clinic from the President’s family for 144 million rupees, despite consultants twice warning the government that a geriatric hospital at Medpoint will not work Apparently some rather negative cynics have claimed there might be a conflict of interest there, but I am not so sure. As the adverts say, that kind of thing simply does not happen on this island. Some cynics have even gone as far as to point out that the MMM were only allowed to put up a limited number of posters criticising what they call ‘the scandal of the century’ – or to put it another way zot mem vendé, zot mem asté. They have called this undemocratic and an attempt to stifle criticism – even before they found out that Harish Boodhoo was refused permission by the authorities in Port Louis to hold a public meeting on the matter. Stifling corruption in Mauritius? Never… Raj Jugernauth in L’Express despaired at the lack of any real reaction - ‘is this symptomatic of the Mauritian public at large in the scandalous way public funds are being misappropriated?’ – some might say, sadly, the answer is probably yes. Despite promises of l’avenir enzam, certain groups won’t criticise their own even when the facts point to serious wrong doings. I refuse to comment.

What else is happening in paradise? Well, it looks like the Mauritius Turf Club and the MBC have come to some sort of agreement to get live horse racing back on the box, Mauritius has signed a new Double Taxation Agreement with the Seychelles and we are reliably informed that more and more Mauritians are getting into debt, becoming tangled up in that oh-so-wonderful web of hire purchase. Despite the apparently rosy economic picture painted at the start of this blog entry, the last Central Statistics Office survey on household expenditure showed households on average used 40% of their income paying off debt – and this was five years ago, as the reports come out every five years and the next one is due in May 2011. Is the outlook as rosy as people want us to believe? There are, after all, lies, damned lies and statistics. At least lazing all day on the beach is free…although in some places they’ve tried starting to charge even for that… interesting times await us no doubt. They always do…

NORMAN'S GREEN LEGGINGS

2011-02-20T06:51:00.004Z

The concrete 70s monstrosities of Rose Hill are just one of the reasons I love this town!

Time for another blog then – now that I’ve got some time. The whole point of moving here was to slow everything down and make sure I did have some time… teachers in the UK don’t have time – FACT. Now I’ve realised that conscientious teachers don’t have time ANYWHERE in the world! Its of course that time of year that students start to panic – exams are looming and I do feel for them as there is more pressure than ever on them to succeed. Some of them have bitten off more than they chew with the IB but one thing they can be sure of is that we will do all we can to help. One thing is often overlooked is the work of the teacher – certainly on this island where anyone who has gone through the government system will think a teacher’s job is to write the exercises on the board the student’s job is to get on with it. I wonder why I am so tired all the time – and then when I get a minute to sit down I realise – on your feet all day, explaining 100 things 100 different times throughout the course of the day, varying the activities, thinking non-stop as you deal with questions and concerns from seven classes worth of students all day – not to mention the social worker aspect at times, the manager role, the administrator… in this humidity, it is no wonder that I am looking forward to this coming Friday and the mid-term break…

Another milestone chalked up – this time 18 months since I landed on paradise. 18 months isn’t actually that long in the grand scheme of things but certainly a great deal has happened. I’ll safely say we’re well and truly settled and this place certainly feels like home. I’ve grown quite attached to Rose Hill – certainly the Sunday morning walk to the world’s best boulangerie! Today’s baguettes were perfect and the nutella just topped that perfection off…One thing to thank the French for, although Central Way does sliced bread which fits nicely in our toaster! Any leftovers go outside for the Fody who lives on our telephone wire and waits at the same time each day for his breakfast! Occasionally you get a bulbul with their distinctive ‘spiky hair’ and we have a Mynah who lives on the windowsill of our bathroom. If anything is left after that the Ground Doves pop out from under their usual hiding place of the bush.# and clear up. And its not just birds - we had an unusual visitor last week in the form of an ornate lizard, a breed I’d certainly not seen before. The look on his face as he realised his error of trying to cross the patio was a picture – he came face to face with guard dog Lucy on best attentive behaviour and froze. Sadly, there was only going to be one winner, and as fast as the lizard tried to move, Lucy won. Luckily she leaves the birds alone.

The 18 months here have also deepened my belief in Northfields and what its trying to achieve and long may it continue. There is so much potential there and wonderful students and colleagues I have grown so fond of! I’ll admit we took a risk – selling everything we had in the UK – but so far, so good and ‘I am taking each day as it comes’ is a cliché for a reason isn’t it!!

Gazing out of the window I can’t see the usual landmark of the mountain over towards Ebene. In what is becoming quite a common event, the morning starts grey and rainy – its good as we need the rain. Then, however, comes the humidity – ouch! (leading to an unhealthily large consumption of Coke) The heat I can deal with but the humidity is draining – will I ever get used to that? Just sit back, put on some Peter Tosh or other such wonderful finds from my favourite music shop in Rose Hill…

All the rain of course leads to the gossip of passing tropical storms (two passed us safely) and it’s the time of year for rumours of another major cyclone. Obviously the loss of internet connection if such a disaster were to happen would just be unimaginable. Give me no access to water, electricity, food – but no Match of the Day? No News Quiz? No East Enders? Unthinkable… Luckily then we’ve had a bit of rain – but, and I don’t want to sound ungrateful here, last Saturday was too much! We were trapped in the house all day as Inkerman Street became Inkerman River. I was trying to get to school for a rehearsal, and after dressing up the best I could – waterproof mac, solid shoes etc – I stepped outside and promptly disappeared almost knee deep into puddles. Needless to say I had to abandon plans…

It was all right on the night however and Northfields’ first ever drama production (apart from some that may have unofficially happened in the staff room from time to time)… Credit has to go to all involved – it really was fun to be part of and although I wasn’t initially sure I think I did King Duncan justice. Daniel did well to remember all his lines as Macbeth, Deepa was brilliant as Lady Macbeth, Norman’s green leggings were a highlight and in fact all the students did so well considering it was their first ‘proper’ production. I even have to admit Mr Adam wasn’t bad either. Various staff all helped out in the team effort and of course it couldn’t have been done without Miss Nairac’s vision, skill and patience! I can’t wait for the DVD release. Laura can’t either – she was working late both nights so missed the opportunity to laugh at me prancing around the stage in a ‘skirt’. (Surely you mean ‘be immensely proud of her husband’?)

Back on the island the Medpoint affair is keeping the papers busy. The former Minister of Health, Kishore Deerpalsing, has been asking questions and alleging corruption and kickbacks amongst the great and the good – on all sides of the political spectrum. I will say no more – other than why are people surprised? In 18 months I’ve been able to pick up how this island works! We might have lots of shopping malls being built – but with most people living on around 10,000 rupees per month, who is going to shop in them? Incidentally, developers have walked away from the development between Trianon and Pride Mark – all work has stopped and we’re left with an Atrium-type situation… I’m sure this is merely a temporary blip on our march towards being the new Singapore. You have to set your goals high… On the corruption, unemployment and affordability of food issues, we just have to remember that history teaches us nothing lasts for ever. Its great to see people demanding justice and accountability, rights and competent, fair leadership in Egypt, Bahrain, Libya, Yemen etc. Much blood will be sped, but as I said, history teaches us tyrants do not, and can not, rule for ever. Hungary 1956 failed, the Prague Spring failed in 1968 and it wasn’t until 1989 that the oppressive ‘Communist’ regimes fell. It takes time, but you have to have faith it will come. Even Castro had to give up sometime. Not that this is to equate Mauritius with Egypt, but it might just be something to bare in mind. We are proud of the political stability here and we all want it to continue, but leaders have to be careful.

60 DAYS OF WATER LEFT BEFORE WE DIE...

2011-01-21T17:42:00.002Z

That was the shocking claim made by ‘The Independent’ on January 18th – yes, its true, unless the rains come the island has only 60 days of water left before we all die. The government can always rely on ‘The Independent’ to do its bidding for it and of course as one of the only English-language dailies on the island, it’s key aim is to keep the ex-pats and tourists calm. On Thursday it duly obliged, giving column inches to Bishek Narain, Communications Manager of the CWA - not a job I would want. Maybe he was quoted out of context but he appears to have overlooked a key point. If Narain is to be believed, we have no water because there has been no rain, a large amount of it is evaporating and you just can’t plan for the driest year in history. The fact that 50% (conservative estimate) of water is lost through leaking pipes, more reservoirs were not built despite suggestions, bore holes were not dug, despite suggestions and rainwater has been allowed to run into the sea, despite suggestions. Removing the Chair of the CWA came far too late and we have been following the policy of ‘God will provide water’ for far too long – as well as employing people with absolutely no knowledge of engineering who just want to pose in their big Mercedes Benz and act the ‘big man’ – despite having very few qualifications… To point all of that out would be cynical. The real reason for the shortage is that we are all wasting water (hotels? Golf courses?) – hence the two people arrested at Pailles for washing their car (Police get tough..) Apparently, the CWA do have an anti-Fraud Team which goes to places where people waste water – sadly though by the time the team reached the spot, the people had gone… curses what bad luck (no tip-offs there…) They can work out the island uses 350 000m³ of water daily – so why on earth hasn’t this been thought about in terms of providing another reservoir?? 30mm of rain over several hours will begin to fill up the reservoirs we are reassured. On a more positive note, we had more than that in the first week of January in Rose Hill so maybe God is coming round to our side…

The water shortage is a bit of an avoidable tragedy and two other unavoidable tragedies happened over the past couple of weeks – the murder of Michaela Harte and the death of 11 Bangladeshis in a van accident. Neither incident covered Mauritius in glory. There has been much coverage in the media of the Harte murder so I won’t go into too much detail – a truly horrific case of wrong place, wrong time. She went back to her hotel room at Legends in Grande Gaube for some biscuits (Rich Tea apparently) and this cost her her life as she allegedly walked in on cleaner Sandip Moonea and Avinash Treebhoowon rifling through her cash – as she screamed, they panicked and strangled her – allegedly – placing her body in the bath and leaving the tap running… Strangely no-one fell for the drowned in the bath routine. It’s a tragic loss – the Hartes were here on honeymoon and it could hit the tourist image (a record number of tourists arrived in 2010 – 937,827). This would be a shame because it is a very safe place to live. In the 18 months I have lived here there have only been three murders – although when it comes to ‘petty crime’ I have been victim of an intruder, people attempted to break into Calodyne three further times, Aunt Ivy’s house was broken into, there was the mass jail break and a colleague’s house was broken into… Rumours are quick to circulate and of course web gossip is now saying we’re a ‘broken paradise’ like Jamaica or Barbados where you really can be in danger. The police were also very quick to ‘get their men’ – media demanded it, and it raised questions that it was just another act for show. Maybe - although it’s a small island and not many places to hide. The three suspects have all confessed although they are complaining of police brutality and confessions under duress. It looks like they will get manslaughter charges not murder – reducing their prison life from 60 years to 30. Calls to reintroduce the death penalty, only abolished here in 1995, once again surfaced…

As for the Bangladeshi van incident – well, on the 12th January a van carrying Bengali workers to work smashed into a lorry near St Julien d’Hotman. The Mauritian driver, Mohamed Allykhan Jahangeer, died along with 11 other Bengalis. Of course I could go on for paragraphs about Mauritian driving but I won’t – you just won’t be surprised to hear the van’s tyres were worn, and despite heavy rain, the van was driving too fast around a corner. Yet another avoidable tragedy…

You might be surprised to learn there are many foreign workers here – it makes you wonder what wages in China, Bangladesh and India are like if textile workers come to work here. Indeed, two Indians tried to end it all in Bambous, such were their financial woes…they failed but their story is a sad one as they are two of 15 workers hired from Mumbai to work at Shibani Textiles (closed down) and Twintex Textiles (facing financial problems). The tragedy is that they haven’t been paid since October and didn’t receive their end of year bonus… that they can just be left to fend for themselves is just such a stark contrast to the UK where people who have been in the country less than 10 minutes are handed houses… that sounds like a Daily Mail editorial but readers will know my experience in the UK where we were party to this. It broke my heart and the unfairness of it all was behind my decision to leave.

We had a public holiday on Thursday for Kavadee, the festival dedicated to the favourite deity of the Tamils, Muruga. The ten days leading up to the event are considered sacred and devotees fast, only eat vegetarian meals etc and visit the temple every day with offerings of coconut and fruits as well as incense. Living close the temple, and in fact, living close to most things in Rose Hill, we were able to walk to the end of the road to see the amazing colourful processions – devotees walk carrying the kavadee, an arch-shaped wooden structure which is carried on the back as a sign of penance. Jacob and Amelie were also amazed by the fact many devotees pierce themselves with skewers through their mouths or cover their torso and back with needles and the like – they had been told this at school but weren’t sure whether to believe the teacher or not! We didn’t stick around for the fire walking – another sign of penance – but if you’ve fasted properly, the burning embers will not leave marks on your feet!

As you can see by the gap between blog entries, we’re back at school so it’s a welcome to Mr Ronnie Kuhn, Northfields’ new Headteacher. I’ve enjoyed the meetings I have had with him so far and long may that continue. The IB groups have suddenly realised just how much work they have to do and Form 4 and Lower Sixth have got exams coming up. Yep, its that time of year…

Elsewhere despite the lack of water on the island, plans are afoot for a $2bn oil refinery built with Indian money. Mauritius is importing flour from Turkey, a hike in the fuel price has been labelled ‘inevitable’ and pressure grows for the next municipal election – which Mr Ramgoolam has appeared to have forgotten about, seeing as it should have happened in 2010, but never mind…as one friend of mine told me ‘we do politics differently on this island…’

A GOOD DRAMA

2011-01-03T06:33:00.001Z

So Happy New Year! Welcome to 2011 and I am being most sincere when I say hope it brings you all peace, happiness and all of what you need and a bit of what you want. 2010 treated me well, not without the odd hiccup here and there, and I will always remember it as my first full calendar year in Mauritius. Reading back through the blog, it is quite remarkable how many things of note happened and how much progress we made in terms of settling in. I still love this island and everything about the place still excites and enthuses me. 2011 promises to be an even better year from my point of view and whilst I am not naïve enough to think bad luck never follows good luck, I hope to build on the good luck and fortune I had in 2010. Long may it continue was a much overused phrase in last year’s blogs, but it still rings true.

We had a large Zaza family Christmas up at Calodyne which involved lots of food, conversation and dips in the pool with Boxing Day being spent at the Water Park which was again a rather large family occasion. Jacob and I managed to fall out of our rubber ring on the black slide (the one where you are completely in the dark) but other than that, no major mishaps took place. I got a little sunburnt despite all the cream, hat and T-shirt because the sun was blazing – as it tends to do at this time of year…

New Year’s Eve saw us all back up at Calodyne with once again on Ile aux Cerfs was wonderful – the last time I was there was in 2005 and Jacob was crawling! Not much changes – its still an incredible place to spend an afternoon – 16 of us got treated to a speedboat crossing which got us there a lot quicker than I remember it taking in 2005 and we had three very relaxing hours picnicking, hunting for crabs and avoiding sea urchins. The island is owned by Le Touessrok – the Beckham’s favourite port of call when in Mauritius I am told – but us mere mortals are allowed on parts of it. The speedboat trip back was a little more hairy – the driver was clearly in a race with his mate and whilst it was ‘fun’ for the adults, he’d clearly forgotten he had some young children on board who didn’t appreciate him ‘tipping’ the boat so one side almost had their backs touching the water – cue much crying and fear, and once again we were witnesses to that famous Mauritian regard for Health and Safety! I suppose you Daily Mail readers out there who convulse at the ‘Nanny State’ the UK has become would love it here…

Water continues to be an issue, but it always has been and always will be. We can’t do much about the lack of rain but I suppose the frustration is with the lack of will to do anything. High ranking members of the CWA have not got their jobs through any knowledge of water or engineering and as long as important people get their supply, nothing else matters. In 2000 a report told the CWA they were losing 50% of the water through leaks and many other reports followed by not much got done. The policy really does seem to be wait for the rain – the almighty will provide. Of course, this policy is now being seen to be one with rather a large flaw and it is only now they realise they need to replace 1,200 miles of pipes. How long ago should they have started replacing the 25% of the network that needed replacing? Did they just not get round to it? Or were the top dogs playing the big man again – driving the big cars, having the big houses, taking the big wages but forgetting their duty was to the people of Mauritius? Anyway, seeing how long the doubling of the motorway to Grand Baie has taken, I wouldn’t hold your breath. That said, roads like the Triolet bypass seem to have been built very quickly – can’t work out why…

The News on Sunday ran a good article under the depressing headline, “Water level goes from bad to worse.” Mauritians love a good drama and some it seems aren’t happy unless there is one (the Zaza family prove this) but this is pretty serious. Normal water level at this time of year is 55%, now it is 38% although a new ground water supply has been found at Verdun. Indeed, Beebeejaun, the Deputy PM has given orders to ‘find ground water’ – that is how dynamic our politicians are. Navin has wisely distanced himself from this and I agree with him – it is the organisation itself that is the root of the problem. Getting rid of the Chairman and Director of the CWA has been a start and we will see what the CWA Acting President Meckduth Chumroo will do, but at least he has admitted there is a problem – a refreshing change indeed.

Maybe its too little, too late. Water tables have dried up completely in Black River and that is where most of the CWA’s 15 tankers head each day, meaning those of us in Rose Hill and Quatre Bornes who need our tanks filling have to wait. As Chumroo helpfully added, “The problem is most critical in the region of lower Plaine Wilhelms” – yes thanks, I know. Experts from Singapore are on the way to save us and advise us on water conservation (the very experts who are going to build us a nice new Metro, like the one that so impressed Navin on his recent trip there, so traffic jams in Port Louis will be a thing of the past.) One piece of ‘conservation’ advice I could give to people further up our road is don’t flipping wash your cars – its kind of selfish when we only have a trickle… Still, our landlady has been very good and she’s even paid for the CWA to give us another pipe – when this will get done, however, we don’t know, but it’s a start… Bring on the rain!

Other news – unemployment has reached 7.5%, the Governor of the Bank of Mauritius predicts 7% inflation by the end of 2011 (although the government say 2.9%!), economic growth has been 4.1% this year, Foreign Investment has been over 12 billion rupees this year and the debate about devaluing the rupee continues (7% inflation AND devaluing the rupee…?) Perhaps the biggest concern is the slide in Mauritius’ position in the ‘Doing Business Survey’ – the island has always been rightly proud of being so high in the list but it is still the 20th best country in the world in which to do business. Other reasons to be proud of the island are its first position in the Mo Ibrahim Index of African Governance, presented to Navin by no lesser man than Kofi Annan and Mauritius is 12th in the Index of Economic Freedom for 2010. Somehow Mauritius came joint first with Denmark and Hong Kong in the World Investment Forum 2010 awards for commitment to sustainable development. I must have missed something here although I am sure a lot is going on behind the scenes…

I have one more week left of doing absolutely nothing apart from watching all I’ve downloaded – Charlie Brooker’s 2010 Wipe was fantastic, East Enders continues to grip me and of course life is back to normal now as I watch Match of the Day only a few hours after it was on in the UK thanks to various websites. Luton managed a 3-0 win on New Year’s Day and whilst I think automatic promotion is slightly beyond us, its not impossible. Ideally, the Hatters and AFC Wimbledon would go up – this is English football and we don’t do franchises – its not the NFL where one day you are Baltimore, the next Indianapolis… the fans don’t take to it, as the half-empty Stadium:MK shows on the Football League Show every time I watch it. Anyway, we watch with interest, which will make 2011 no different to 2010 in that respect! Watching with interest is something I’ve become quite good at as its very easy to do here in paradise.

WATER LET DOWN NAVIN!

2010-12-10T09:49:00.001Z

And there is goes again… oh Navin, Navin, Navin. I have spent so long praising you for sorting out the water problems in Rose Hill as you said you would and now its gone again. Thanks a lot! I have had people laugh at me, tell me I am stupid for trusting the government’s promises and still I defended you! Will it be another two weeks wait? Where is the rain the meteorology experts predicted? Once the reservoirs are full again will I get water? I’ve given up trying to understand it. No water. Then two weeks of the highest pressure we’ve ever had, now none again. Is it morally acceptable for a country to knowingly let its citizens go without water? Again we got the promises – you will have water between 4am and 11am, leading me to get up at 4am to grab a shower only to find out there is no water… why did I believe them? Maybe I wanted to believe them., a tanker will be arriving, if you don’t get water in the morning, you will get it in the afternoon. Hilarious. Look guys, I wouldn’t want your job – the first port of call for angry Rose Hillians and Quatre Borneites – but why are you punishing those who live in the second biggest town on the island? Le Defi quoted Navin as saying he finds the water situation ‘inconceivable’ on this island, and yet nothing is getting done… 50% of the water is still leaking from the pipes, the fountain at Rose Hill plaza is still spraying water everywhere, and yet a man cannot have a shower unless he brings a towel and his shower gel to school… I firmly believe this island is going places and I love living here but we gotta get this one sorted out… I love my adopted country but please... come on...

Orange came and fitted us up with the My-T package so Jacob now has a few cartoon channels in his room – and CNN and France 24 in English for Daddy – and perhaps more welcomingly the internet! And fast it is too – wow, East Enders, Match of the Day, The Football League Show, the News Quiz – brilliant and thanks UK Nova… Download, put onto USB, place in DVD player and watch MotD on a Sunday evening on the big TV. Perfect… almost as perfect as listening to Radio Five Live 606 et al live – although I’m not quite used to it being nearly midnight here by the time it finishes… See, it’s not all doom and gloom. I’ve even been able to Skype with my mum and sister – the first time I’ve ‘seen’ them in 16 months – and my good friend and ex-colleague Ryan Florence over there in Perth, WA, where he is enjoying reminding the Aussies of the score in the 2nd Test…Indeed, the holidays are just five working days away…mock exams have been held and marked, the new reporting system is up and running and I’m enjoying my new role as what seems to be something like reports editor… The Christmas lunch is booked for the last day of term and after all the hard work I have put in this term I intend to get very drunk indeed. Four weeks’ holiday will be nice – but most of it will be spent marking ToK essays, updating schemes of work – oh, and sleeping… got a huge backlog of books to get through, and if the internet is still working I am sure there will be lots of Christmas TV to download and watch…

WATER CARRY ON

2010-11-26T05:34:00.001Z

Well hello once again… there’s been quite a gap between blog entries again and it’s not through having nothing to say! It’s the time of year when it gets very hot so things take that little bit longer to complete, we have Form 5 and Upper 6th mocks, we have reports to write, no end of IB deadlines and it just all builds up! Sorry to disappoint you all - by writing another blog… and reading back over it, I am sorry to say its a bit of an epic...

It’s certainly been an interesting few weeks since my last entry as we move towards the 16 months in Mauritius milestone. I could get quite angry and go on a big rant about what sort of country knowingly leaves half the population of its third largest town without water for two weeks… but I will resist that temptation as despite everything I still love this place. In short, we had no water for two weeks, other than a trickle for ten or fifteen minutes a day. A pressure problem the CWA (Central Water Authority) said – and for the first few days we lived with it. I took showers at school, we did our washing at Jessica and Patrick’s in Curepipe and the kids found washing in a bucket with bottled water quite a novelty. During the ‘trickle times’ we filled 5 litre water bottles and were able to use these later to flush the loo and wash plates (not at the same time of course) Nobody quite, it seems, realised just how bad it was – Mauritians are used to sanctioned water, but we weren’t even getting water after the ‘switch on’ time of 4.30pm. Colleagues seemed confused – get a tank they said (we already have one), your pump must be broken (no, there is no water for the pump to pump!) and the landlady initially thought we at least had some water – I mean, what sort of country would knowingly leave its citizens without water for two weeks (He’s done this already. Ed)

We complained and complained to the CWA (who famously lose nearly 50% of the water through poorly maintained pipes first built during the French occupation which ended in 1810) and of course got promise after promise of an official investigation, a tanker of water… after the 12th complaint I was getting bored and began to get friendly with the poor helpless CWA ‘Hotline’ call centre workers. There was nothing they could do other than pretend something was going to be done about it. I think that was possibly the most annoying thing about it all – the fact people kept pretending something was going to be done; the promises of tanks of water that would be there at 4pm, the official investigator who will be there at 5pm. I would rather they just said, “You know Mr Wilkinson, we haven’t a clue what’s going on and what’s more bugger all will be done about it.” As this is Mauritius I already knew that but still we kept on. Laura even got on to Radio One after I e-mailed them and said there’s a story here you’ll be interested in. Mrs Venkatasawmee, our landlady, and colleagues were helpful – Rosemary Abbott and her husband brought round a truck load of water to help fill our tank. I’m not moaning – and I know millions of people around the world still in this day and age don’t have access to clean water – but all we wanted was an hour or two’s supply in the morning and at night for washing ourselves, our plates and flushing the loo…

The conspiracy theory is that of course Rose Hill is an MMM hotbed – Berenger’s town of opposition, so of course the government is teaching us a lesson. The landlady’s son, living next door for a bit while he plans his next adventure (he’s spent years in academia in Australia and Borneo) told me of some fall out over the 24/7 event…True, its been the driest year in Mauritian history so I am not opposed to cutting the supply but everyone has to suffer equally surely? The island is usually wonderfully green but its all a dry shade of brown and even the deer who famously roam around Domaine de Chasseur are apparently dying off as they have no grass to eat. The water situation we are told on a daily basis is critical so the CWA say (interestingly the Chairman of the CWA resigned to ‘spend more time at the University of Mauritius). The hotels and golf courses still get their supply. Patrick told me that finally I was seeing the real Mauritius and soon I would become cynical and jaded (what? I am not already?) and he went on one about how Mauritians are given jobs according to caste and family and not ability. I refuse to believe this, although the Head of the CEB (Central Electricity Board) has just had to resign over a dodgy deal he signed to buy unauthorised energy saving light bulbs from China…

Much mystery surrounds this affair – no road works, no pipes being dug up, nobody came to investigate the pipes – and then suddenly, on Saturday there was a big gurgle of pipes and boy did the pressure come back – more than we’d ever had, with us being able to do five lots of washing in the machine that had built up over the two weeks and, perhaps more wonderfully, being able to have a long hot shower in our own (rented) home… And, touch wood, it continues. Having just washed up, there is so much pressure that it squirts out the side of the tap – we’ve gone from one extreme to the other, and I know which one I prefer. What happened I don’t know. Navin Ramgoolam’s message to Rose Hill was that he would give them water – this was on the radio at about 2pm Saturday. The water came flooding back up the hill at 4pm and hasn’t stopped since. Mr Gour, Northfields’ site agent, also had a word with his friend at the CWA… who knows exactly what happened? Was there even a pressure problem? When we phoned and complained each time we got 30 minutes’ worth of water – then nothing until the next phone call, so something was clearly going on. I firmly believe it was all down to the great man Navin, so when I get my citizenship, he’s got my vote…

I vented a lot of anger over this on the excellent website for expats, www.expat-blog.com, and it was interesting to see what other people said on the forum. It’s been good therapy for me – family and colleagues are great but its good to meet others – big shout out to John QPM here! It was good to know we weren’t alone on the water issue and on many other issues too – pleasingly there was a thread about Northfields and there were many comments about how pleased parents were. This of course is great to read – people appreciating what we are doing and knowing we are going to get even better over the next few years.

On the forum I found this great comment from a guy who has been here 6 years commenting on Newsweek’s recent report that says Mauritius is not even in the ‘top 100 countries’ in the world, behind the likes of Madagascar, Bangladesh and Ethiopia. He doesn’t say what criteria it was based on – indeed, The ‘Independent’, which I now know is far from that, has report after report on the front page in which Mauritius is top of this table or the other (tourism, transparency, the best place to do business) so, as usual, we don’t know which set of statistics to believe! The UN HDI says Mauritius is the second ‘best’ country in Africa with a High Human Development rating of 0.701 – only behind Libya and 72nd in the world, ahead of Brazil, Turkey and China. As usual, Norway, Australia and New Zealand are way ahead and good old UK dropped five places in 2010 to 26th (and will only get to fall lower!) The moaners I suppose don’t know how lucky they are – Zimbabwe is 0.140, DR Congo is 0.239 – countries that once were or could have been great – a warning for all of us there!

Anyway I digress, and I hope he doesn’t mind me using his words here, he goes on to say that “Mauritius prides itself to be the star and key of the Indian Ocean, the success story that African countries can inspire to, the ‘Singapore’ of the region, the "destination de luxe" for the rich & famous etc.” What is interesting is that he highlights what he thinks is wrong with the island, quoting the following:

• The massive presence of foreign workers while our own unemployment hangs around 8% should be an indication of the ineffectiveness of our labour force. (I think he’s being a little harsh here although I haven’t been a businessperson here)
• The lack of vision of our road infrastructure that is causing massive jams every morning for the past 20 years. (I totally agree with this one – the traffic here is so bad – how much petrol and how many man hours are lost in jams per year?)
• The escargot slow internet connection while we call ourselves the Cyber Island (not so sure – ADSL is not bad and reasonably priced, allowing Laura to watch X-Factor!)
• The mismanagement of public funds and inefficiency of the public sector. (Tell me one country in Africa where this doesn’t apply!)
• The inefficiency of our educational system, where the teachers are making more money than doctors by conducting private tuition. (To someone from the UK, this is the biggest issue that sticks in my throat – and explains why Mauritian colleagues can’t understand why us British-trained teachers will spend hours after school unpaid!)
• By wasting Rs40m of public fund on "Mauritius, c'est un plaisir" promotional campaign which never took off. (As Rosemary Abbott says, Mo Contente Toi would have been better – but promoting Creole? That’s a no-no)
• The lack of discipline of the drivers (needs to be seen to be believed)
• Dirty roads, dirty beaches, ugly public infrastructures - new MBC building, what an eyesore! (Beaches are not dirty – I won’t hear a word against my beloved Mon Choisy – and there are armies of people paid to keep them clean, and by the way, I quite like the new MBC building and the new MCB one is even bolder!)

Funnily enough he didn’t mention lack of water or the fact we will have more shopping centres than people in a few years!! Some of the above points are valid but are being addressed and of course we are still a ‘developing’ country…Is the problem that expats come here and expect to live as they had done in Europe or the US? Surely that is not the attitude to come with?

I am happy here though – having burnt my bridges in the UK I have to be – but I am loving Northfields, loving the pace of life (even the water issue didn’t anger me as much as I thought it would) and I’ve even been asked to take on the part of Duncan in NIHS’ production of Macbeth! Frighteningly, perhaps because I am getting old, or because I spend all my time reading about Tsars, Lenin, Stalin and Khrushchev I am finding it very hard to learn my lines. Can Charlotte Nairac, one of the Northfields English Department, who is producing it, allow me to discreetly hide a script around the stage somewhere…Why did I agree?? Anyway, we have a landline phone here in Rose Hill now and ADSL Internet coming on Friday, so we’re slowly getting there and might be able to Skype with people soon. Maybe we’ll be able to afford a car next?

Luvlina Tulsidas arranged a very successful Careers Fair at school on Wednesday, aimed at getting the students to think about their future – with many universities attending from around the world. I had flashbacks to my Deputy Head of Sixth Form days but its important to give students a taste of what they can do and what they need to start doing to prepare. As a Sixth Form tutor I was interested and had a few chats with some of the people there (realising they are more salespeople than academics!) – I even took some of the literature home and Laura and I worked out the costs of sending both Jacob and Amelie to university in the UK. In short, they are not going – and not to Australia or SA either! As the UK is showing, the world is going back to the idea that further education is just for the rich – how on earth a student is going to pay £9000 per year for course fees, £10,000 to live on - £60k’s worth of debt to try and pay off before finding £200,000 for a decent house in a depressed job market where, as the Guardian Weekly tells us, 17% of graduates are unemployed one year after graduating. The world, as they say has gone mad… but as long as the bankers get their six figure bonuses which they fully deserve for shuffling paper, the world is ok. They can do what they want as they will be bailed out… Us mere mortals sadly won’t…

HIGHER THAN USUAL...

2010-11-01T05:52:00.000Z

I hope my followers (thanks to Blogger Stats I see there are many) have realised that over the past 18 months this blog has been as transparent as I can possibly make it. Much comment is of course tongue in cheek but I’ve always striven to be honest and incorruptible – like Mauritius of course, which this week was announced as the most transparent country in Africa! Transparency International’s 2010 Corruption Perceptions Index gave Mauritius a rating of 5.4, still a long way behind New Zealand and Singapore’s 9.3, which topped the list. Pessimists and cynics will not believe the figures and some will say if Mauritius is the best country in Africa, things must be pretty bad elsewhere, but I do have to say I detect some sort of effort to stamp it out on the island – I mean, its now illegal to try to bribe a policeman and quite a few shopping mall deals go through without a huge kickback to ministers… we’re almost in the 21st century. A colleague told me a great story about one of his friend’s uncles – a copper who used to sit in his front room all day watching TV on a Sunday, whilst wearing his police uniform despite being off-duty. He’d get his son to sit outside on the road and whistle when he saw a truck coming. Said uncle would then jump outside, flag down the truck and find something wrong with it – not hard here (indeed, some of the Bedford sugar lorries here were probably actually built in Bedford and we know the factory there closed down a long time ago). Bingo, some spare cash to supplement his income. The joke here goes that you will probably be stopped on a Friday as the cops need their betting money for the Champ de Mars on the Saturday…

Anyway, to borrow a phrase from one of my favourite songs, True Faith, by New Order, I used to think that the day would never come – finally half-term! This year the powers that be extended the half-term by one week – supposedly to fit in with others, and nothing to do with the fact that by moving the holiday, it now coincides with two public holidays so we don’t get two extra days off… I’m not particularly sad about that, but I know some of my students will. I’m really feeling at home at Northfields now and I’m not just saying that because I know some of them read this – ok Saakshee?

As usual there is plenty to do of course – some colleagues asked about what I was going to do with my week off! I’ve been in the game long enough now to realise whilst half-term means lie-ins and non contact time – the preparation of worksheets, the research for IB, tweaking schemes of work, marking and catching up on paperwork means it is not really a ‘week off’. Obviously this seems unusual to some people – but I won’t waste my anger on those people who just don’t do their job properly. Its probably my own fault for being efficient – or perhaps I just want my students to do well? Strange that… We found a great way of celebrating eight week’s hard work – a group of about ten colleagues found their way down to Poudre d’Or, stomping ground of Yvon Emile who through his contacts provided us all with some amazing grub and beers. Not only was the food, beer and company good but I always love going to Poudre d’Or – one of the real ‘unspoilt’ bits of Mauritius, Mauritius as it once was…If all else fails there is also the excitement of being able to watch Madagascar TV and Comores TV thanks to two recent additions to Canalsat…

I’m ploughing through Dark Heart by Nick Davies. Written in 1997 and subtitled ‘The Shocking Truth About Hidden Britain’ it highlights the problems of sink estates, drugs, desperation and has a theme of how poverty is a trap people can’t get out of and basically comes across as a critique of Thatcher and Major’s policy on the poor – i.e. they were ignored, politicians even claiming there was no such thing as poverty in the UK. A fascinating read, even if I think it is a little over the top at times – my middle-class blindness? What is even more interesting is the blurb on the back – no less a man than Jack Straw wrote, “this book should be required reading… it will shock many to the quick, that all this could be happening under their noses.” Fine words indeed – but Mr Straw, I can’t help feeling that when your lot came in, your hotchpotch of populist policies – some left-wing, some right-wing, anything in fact to appease the middle-classes, didn’t do much good either. Gordon Brown will point to tax credits, money thrown at schools, the minimum wage, increase in child benefits of course, but for each of these there is a counter – still a shortage of affordable housing, shiny New Labour initiatives and quangos that achieved bugger all, a bigger gap between rich and poor than even under Thatcher and of course a whopping great deficit that the Tories will now (happily) use as an excuse to cut council funding which has the knock-on effect of people not being able to provide services for those who need them most.

I’ve already put World Soccer and Private Eye to bed and have two copies of the Guardian Weekly to endure, I mean enjoy, and there’s plenty of viewing material lying around the house. Not that I am sick of French tv (unless the football is on) but we’ve taken to viewing DVDs a lot – we finally finished Skins and thanks to colleagues we’re ploughing through 24, Scrubs and all the other things that in typical wilkinsonzaza fashion we never saw first time around…

The death toll from the latest Indonesian tsunami continues to rise which of course acts as a reminder about how random life is and how we need to enjoy each day, doing things our way and trying in a small way to make things better. ‘Higher than usual’ waves hit Rodrigues, to the east of Mauritius, damaging fishing boats, and Reunion also saw damage to boats in harbour. Mauritius is famously protected by the ‘reefs’ so not many of those waves affected Ile Maurice – certainly not high up here in Rose Hill (!) but some concern is always raised by those living close to the beach when other countries issue Tsunami warnings… the Mauritian meteorological station once again surpassed itself by initially announcing the cause of the waves was ‘bad weather’ – when almost every other place on earth correctly said they were caused by an earthquake in Sumatra measuring 7.5 on the Richter scale. Reassuring eh?

Elsewhere, we learn that another policeman has committed suicide – Prakash Ootim, an officer at Terre Rouge, apparently shot himself with his service revolver. Police are claiming it was over a ‘love affair’ – I am sure more details will come out. I am not commenting until we know more but these things usually involve a maitresse and a couple of concubines, which seem to be the norm here – whilst of course everyone crosses themselves when they pass a church or statue of Mary… Edelweiss Air have become the latest operator to start direct flights to the island – Swiss tourists can now come an shop here too in our nation of shopping malls and Princess Anne will be on the island from the 1st-4th December to celebrate the real significance of 1810 (lets not go there again…) Maybe she’ll come to the joint Northfields-English Speaking Union event on the 2nd which we are hosting…

The government announced that the African Development Bank is to put in 20 million Euros to fund road schemes currently in progress on the island – and whilst some people out there might find the fact progress is the word to be used in connection with roads on the island, we have to be fair. There is a lot of building going on at the moment – even if it is noticeably not where it is needed most – e.g. around Port Louis! Bring on the light rail… The big announcement this week is that 2,000 acres of land needed for road development – the island therefore becoming one big road with lots of shopping malls. Compulsory purchase orders will be necessary so expect entertainment sometime soon…

Rose Hill 24/7 was quite entertaining – certainly busy, in fact the roads were packed. Its basically a marketing event – shops are open late, stalls spring up alongside the roads, Inkerman Street was even blocked off and became a long line of take away stalls (can’t they keep it that way permanently?). Anyway, we headed down to have a look at what was going on – and found it almost impossible to move so there was a great buzz. The plaza had a music stage and rather impressive reggae bands were playing there and there was also a stage by the bus station and one by Courts – Jacob and Amelie got to shake hands with Winnie the Pooh, Piglet and Sylvester the Cat so they were happy too. Jacob was even happier that his dealer where he gets his fix from (commonly known as the Playstation shop) was open late!! Ebene and Phoenix Les Halles were open late too – in fact, it seems to be the sales season – Caudan was open late on Thursday – Laura had to help out at the Baobab shop as it became too much for one person at one stage so she received a desperate call from her sister! The fireworks were quite impressive as were the bands on display – nice to see such a buzz on the island.

We of course cannot leave this blog entry without lamenting the death of Paul the Psychic Octopus who of course correctly predicting all eight games he was asked to predict at this summer’s somewhat disappointing World Cup. May he rest in peace – or be turned into one of Jacob’s favourite dishes – octopus curry.

A NATION OF SHOPPING MALLS...

2010-10-19T09:47:00.013+01:00

Yet another long absence - and well, I can only apologise once again - I'm a busy man you know... When I'm getting students complaining at me not for giving them homework, but for not updating the blog then I know I am in trouble. What to say? Well, striving to make Northfields International High School an even better school is a time consuming business but we are getting there...

The new (for me anyway) stats button on Blogger has been taking some of my time - according to the stats, The Mauritius Adventure has clocked up 2,222 page views, so to celebrate, I've put up one of my favourite photos of Jacob and Amelie. It was taken at Casela a couple of months back... 1,068 page views have been in the USA, 244 in Mauritius and 223 in the UK. Interestingly there has been 34 page views from Luxembourg and just one from Egypt and the UAE. Its great to know its got international recognition though... as the MA's catch phrase goes - long may it continue.

14 months have now been clocked up, and its fair to say it feels like home. I'm well and truly used to the island's foibles and well, that to me is just part of integration. Chancellor Merkel's speech on Germany's multiculural 'experiment' failing will be music to the right-wing's ears, but she has a point. Whilst peaceful co-existence is our aim, people have to create a community - I used to get so angry in the UK with some people who just didn't want to contribute to the community, who were here from Poland just for the money but didn't want to give anything back - those who would play music loudly, throw rubbish in the street. If you are in a country that isn't your own, you show loyalty, you need to play an active part - its not fascist to say that. Mauritius, so often lauded as the 'United Nations in miniature' could teach the world a thing or two - although it still has a few barriers to overcome in terms of communalism and people describing themselves in terms of their religion or ethnicity first rather than describing themselves as Mauritian. As one of my more able sixth formers said, the problem with calling yourself a rainbow nation is that it draws peoples' attention to the fact the colours never mix! Still, if some people want to stay in their nice expat cocoons, then let them... Ouch - somebody get me out of this grouchy mood! Half-term on the 29th should...

Despairingly Club M got a sound thrashing by Senegal 7-0 - it had looked so good when Cameroon were being held 1-1 at half-time back at the Anjalay, a real buzz around the ground. Sadly, Senegal have been in form and Club M were just no match. The Commonwealth Games were a little more successful - 55 Mauritian athletes took part and we ended up with 2 bronze medals - both in boxing, Richarno Colin getting one at light welterweight, with Bruno Colin picking one up at bantamweight. This brought a smile to some peoples' faces, although not as much of a smile as the name of Delhi's Chief Minister, Sheila Dikshit - I however would be above such mirth. It might lead to trouble - like the New Zealand news reader who was given a nasty telling off for 'lack of respect' to such a distinguished politician...

As usual, there's been a couple of interesting news stories of note - firstly the tourist from Reunion who was charged 4,011 rupees for three shawls and a T-shirt at a trader at the Central Market in Port Louis. The tourist later complained and was reimbursed 3,200 rupees (along with three free shirts) after police intervened. Michael Sik Yuen the minister of Business and Enterprise was apparently 'shocked' - which shows how little he really knows about his country. Corruption? Backshish? Tourists being charged double? In Mauritius... never? I am more shocked that the tourist actually paid the given price - I mean, there are many other market stalls around there to compare prices with. Watch out traders of Port Louis though - Sik Yuen is on the warpath and 'more site visits' are planned. Contrastingly there has been the tragic case of the murder of Helene Lam Po Tang - a 61 year old from Baie-du-Tombeau who was stabbed 25 times in what they think was a robbery gone wrong. Local 'professional criminal', a man named Pasnin, has been arrested but expect more to follow - as usual, the cries of 'inside job' echo around - the gardener is in the frame as he had a set of keys (just like how the burglars got into Calodyne!) although the husband was out of the country... Many people are commenting that crime is still very rare on this island, but as times get tougher, the levels of violence being used seem to be escalating. Something to think about...

Whereas Napoleon called Britain a nation of shopkeepers, we'll all soon be able to call Mauritius a nation of shopping malls. They continue to go up at an astounding rate - with L'Express Dimanche highlighting just where I will be able to shop in a couple of years time - surrounded by the usual 'poverty stories', but don't worry - the advent of shopping malls with only serve to equalise a divided nations (yeah, right). Much debating has been had on this issue - indeed we had a great debate over this in a sixth form lesson - but it seems the island's push to become a duty-free shopping paradise is unstoppable. Minister of Finance, Pravind Jugnauth (how did he get his job again?) tells us the African economy is picking up - good news indeed, certainly when it runs on the same page as the news that overseas investment in Mauritius has dropped 25% over the last year. Riverside in Riviere-du-Rempart will be opening on the 26th October this year but 2011 will be a bumper year - Bagatelle Mall of Mauritius will open (105 hectares, 140 shops, 6 screen cinema, hotel, food court) on the motorway near Reduit, Cascavalle in Flic-en-Flac will follow (a South African project, 65 shops, a hypermarket, coffee shop, banks) and Centrepoint in Trianon will open its doors in May 2011 - as if there weren't enough shops in Trianon as it is. Still, Centrepoint promises us luxury shops, lots of palm trees and a few escalators so its clearly my favourite. I have to admit that in the promotional pictures, they look good. I'm still not quite sure who will be shopping at them, but obviously the government plans a huge increase in the average Mauritian wage. And still they come - 2012 will see Circle Square at Forbach, very close to us here at Northfields (a British funded project), and La Croisette in Grand Baie will be up and running by April 2012. Us lucky Mauritian citizens are promised another cinema, over 100 shops and restaurants and office space. Another Mall of Mauritius - this time at Ebene, 53,000 square metres of South African investment is to follow at a later date - with a private school offered as part of the deal... another rival for us to watch out for! According to L'Express Dimache, Woolworths will open a shop there - but maybe they know something I don't. Lastly, we have Neotown springing up in Salines, Airport City coming to us at Plaisance next to the er.. Airport and the Chinese funded Jin Fei at Riche-Terre just behind Jumbo Hpyermarket... Blimey, I better start saving now - over the next three years I'm going to be doing a lot of spending... duty free of course. Hopefully these places won't end up like the Atrium in Rose Hill, empty, deserted and full of guano acting as an eyesore by the bus station... Right, just off to watch George "Fletcher-Dervish" Osborne deliver his brutal axe on public services. The Tories can't believe their luck. Thanks to Blair and Brown the Tories now have an excuse to do what they've always wanted to do....

A LOT OF HOT AIR

2010-09-27T04:35:00.000+01:00

I’ve been reading a lot online about how the average lifespan of a blog is one year – and judging by the like of activity here at The Mauritius Adventure, you’d be forgiven for thinking this one has gone the way of many others. I have to apologise – I should really update more often, but life seems to have got much busier recently as we’ve got more and more settled in Rose Hill. There’s probably fewer things to moan about too…

One shocking piece of news from back in the UK was news of the untimely death of Neil Tysoe, long-time PE teacher at Biddenham Upper School. I received a text from Ryan in Australia (showing how news travels so quickly around the world these days) and I simply didn’t know how to react. Neil had complained of feeling unwell on his arrival home from the usual Friday night staff five-a-side game and then he collapsed and died of a heart attack. I’d been part of that five-a-side kickabout (often having lumps kicked out of my legs by Tysoe himself!) for many years – and whilst I’d noticed perhaps a little reduction in his pace over the six years I was at Biddenham, Neil Tysoe looked the healthiest player there, putting me to shame, despite being 20 years older. As seems to be the case with people who ‘go too soon’ he was such a nice guy too, a man of the Christian faith, and always relaxed and prepared to talk to anyone about anything. It goes without saying he will be sorely missed.

That shocking news reminded me that I need to enjoy every minute of this life and I need to keep active – although I’m not planning the Fun Run (that world famous oxymoron) at Mon Choisy on 3rd October – its my favourite beach, sadly one we don’t go to too much now we’re in Rose Hill, but the thought of running from there to Grand Baie is just too much – certainly now its getting hotter again. I do seem to be a bit more used to it – I can just about wear long sleeved T-shirts and jeans in Port Louis now and I am more realistic in where I can walk and how quickly! When I first arrived I was walking long distances and wondering why my shirt was changing colour… Interestingly, we went to pick up Laura’s aunt, Josianne, who hasn’t been here for 9 years, and it brought back memories of our arrival at SSR airport 13 months ago – stepping out of the terminal and being hit by warm air that lets you know you’ve arrived somewhere hot – I remember a similar feeling when I arrived in Mumbai way back in late 1999. I don’t notice the ‘warm air’ anymore – and I wonder if I would find the opposite effect if I was to go back the UK? Would I find myself struggling to get used to the cold?? With the costs of flights its not something I’m going to be able to test for a while yet sadly…

Teaching at Northfields continues to be real fun and of course now I’ve been there one year I only have two classes’ names to learn this time. Once again I’ve reached Sunday evening and I am not depressed about Monday. I don’t think anyone can ever be totally happy as Monday looms, as whatever your job, the arrival of Monday means your freedom is once again restricted – but I find myself looking forward to lessons. Is there something wrong with me? As well as teaching the Aztecs and the Cold War in depth for the first time in a long time, there is also the excitement that we have finally set up the Northfields International High School Amnesty International group.

I’ve been impressed with the students in the two meetings we have had now – not only are they wordly and interested but they are the complete opposite of the global stereotype of bored, lazy, insular teens… They had some good ideas for campaigns too, including working on trying to stop the barbaric practice of stoning someone to death. We had an interesting discussion on the death penalty – the tragic case of Joaneck Martin, the 7 year old raped by her uncle a couple of weeks ago and then later burnt (alive, evidence suggests) when she threatened to tell, has got the whole island rightly shocked. Indeed, like the issue of heroin trafficking, it has got the capital punishment debate going again. I still stay we don’t have the right to kill a human being, life punishment is worse and by killing a killer we are no better than the killer ourselves. Answers on a postcard please…

On more pleasant matters, this morning I had the honour of being Kimmie’s godfather (cue deafening shouts of ‘hypocrite’ at this atheist) but it was a very nice ceremony as part of the Mass at Immaculé in Port Louis – the first time I’d been to a Catholic Mass for a long time. I am very lucky I have a fantastic Godfather and I will try to do the same to Kimmie.

Reading the papers over the weekend revealed that the island is to get yet another shopping complex – this time a 1 billion rupee job by British investors at Forbach near Grand Baie, which will include golf for children and adults, a tennis court, a spa, a clinic, a gym, a roller skating rink and 60 shops. Just what your average Mauritian needs. This of course was in the Independent directly above a story on how the owners of NHDC houses collectively owe 92 million rupees in debts. The NHDC (National Housing Development Corporation) was set up in 1991, aiming to provide housing for low income families – and to a certain extent it has succeeded, although the deposit required for one of the properties still excludes the poorest of the poor. The aim is to build 10,000 more properties in the next ten years – but whether or not this happens remains to be seen – the target of 10,000 more shopping malls might be more realistic – and I haven’t even mentioned the one going up at Riviere du Rempart. One expenditure I do agree with is the upgrade of Port Louis theatre – 350 million rupees are being spent on the upgrade of the theatre, said to be the oldest in the Indian Ocean, and dating from 1822, its considered one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere.

8,000 people on the island have NHDC properties, mostly in blocks of flats so I suppose the NHDC is at least helping some people – of a population of 1.3m (700,000 of which use buses daily according to figures – which is why there are so many traffic jams on this island!) I am not sure that is a good statistic or not? Maybe we could all turn to begging - L’Express claims that the woman and her daughter who spend their days begging by the underpass from McDonalds to Caudan earn 1,000 rupees per day – 30,000 per month is not to be sniffed at, if indeed their claims are true. Someone else famous for earning lots of money is of course Mrs Cheshire Cat,
Cherie Blair, who apparently has been invited to visit by the Foreign Minister Arvin Boolell… Will she turn down such a freebie? I mean, Tony Blair cancelled his book signing in Dublin on the threat of 200 protesters - but as Private Eye pointed out, nearly 1,000,000 people on the streets of London, of which I was one, didn’t make him cancel his ‘appointment’ in Baghdad. History will of course judge, but Blair still maintains he did ‘what he thought was right’ – a highly commendable view, if only it hadn’t been used before by such luminaries as Hitler, Stalin, Castro, Mugabe and Mao Zedong…

QUAND LE COURAGE NE SUFFIT PAS!

2010-09-13T04:38:00.000+01:00

The large gap between this and previous blogs can mean only one thing – we’re back at school! Yes, sadly its true – my 8 weeks of freedom has gone (although as I write we’ve got a public holiday for Eid, so my first week back at school only lasted four days! Amelie made a beautiful Happy Eid card at school as well) and its back in harness. Gerry Young has got us working harder than ever – and so he should as we strive to make Northfields an ever better place for the international youth of tomorrow… That’s not a platitude either – we’re going places and don’t you forget it.

Thanks for all the comments and e-mails by the way – keep ‘em coming in. Maybe I should have been a cheesy radio DJ instead of a teacher with lines like that, but you know the sentiment. Its great to know people actually spend time reading my inane ramblings, including new members of staff! At the ‘bonding B-B-Q’ last Friday a new member of staff came up to me and said “I haven’t had much chance to speak to you today but I know lots about you already through your blog.” It certainly keeps the pressure on to keep producing readable stuff and I can guarantee I will carry on failing to do just that…

Last Saturday I got to finally see Club M – as the national football team are called – as they took on Cameroon an African Cup of Nations qualifying at Anjalay, just rounf the corner from school. Even a non-football anorak can tell you that this promised to be a mismatch of epic proportions, worse than those clichéd Davids against Goliaths, McLibel pair vs McDonalds and Luton Town versus anyone with a pulse (glad to see they got over their initial good start to the season to get back to normal service – drawing with the likes of Hayes & Yeading. Hang on, it looks like they might have beaten Cambridge today though....) One look at the programme told you this wasn’t going to be easy – the Cameroon team contained the likes of Inter Milan’s Samuel Eto’o, Tottenham’s Benoit Assou-Ekotto and Sebastien Bassong, Lyon’s Jean Il Makoun, Hamburg’s Eric Choupo-Moting and Ajax’s Eyong Enoh. Up against them were a motley crew of part-timers from those mightiest of teams Pointe aux Sables Mates, Curepipe Starlight and AS Port Louis 2000. Even US Beau Bassin Rose Hill had a player in the squad – David Gooljary.

We’ve all seen Escape to Victory though and we know miracles can happen. Anjalay was remarkably full – largely because of the ticket prices I would assume (FA take note – ‘comfortable seats’ were 100 rupees (£2) and the cheap seats on uncovered terracing were 50) and also because of the fierce loyalty of the islanders. Most national games take place at the King George V stadium in Curepipe so it was strange to be in Anjalay – Eto’o standing close to where I had been standing just a few months earlier during Northfields’ Athletics Championships. Eto’o must have been honoured to know that… There was certainly a buzz of excitement, lots of vuvuzelas and drums and a guy with a loudhailer chanting all kinds of amusing things. Mauritius were able to field Jonathan Bru – who plies his trade with Oliveifense in the Portuguese Second Division, having once upon a time played for the French Under-21 team, as well as the Reunion based players Kervin Godon and Andy Sophie. Their superior fitness and ability shone through, although in my view it was Curepipe Starlight’s Fabrice Pithia who was Maurice’s Man of the Match.

The fact Mauritius played a rigid 4-5-1 signalled that from the start they would defend and that is exactly what they did, pumping long balls forward to Sophie whenever possession happened to come their way – which was surprisingly often, the awful state of the pitch causing quite a few errors from the Cameroonians who were probably used to even bounce and roll! Mauritius looked nervous at the back but they proved solid enough to hold out until the 37th minute when Samuel Eto’o scored from a direct free kick, which in my view should not have been given – Bruno Ravina having been deemed to break from the wall too soon and being carded. It was obvious where the ball was going but Ivan Jose between the Mauritian sticks still had no chance. 1-0.

Along with almost all of Anjalay – there were a few Cameroonians there – I was fanatically cheering Club M on and in the last minute of the first half we were rewarded with a goal. A long punt forward put the Indomitable Lions’ defender Nicolas Nkoulou (of Monaco!) under pressure and he gave away a penalty. Jonathan Bru stepped up and even with the weight of the whole island on his shoulders slotted home past Nantes’ Guy Assembe. The place (in true football cliché) erupted and at half-time it was 1-1. There was a great buzz about the place during the break but we all knew it was too good to be true – Cameroon came out for the second half playing properly and within 45 seconds of the restart Eto’o had scored again – 2-1, and then the foot was back off the pedal. Even at half pace Cameroon threatened again and again as the valiant Club M tired. One goal was ruled out for off-side but to the islander’s credit they defended doggedly and only a dodgy penalty (tucked away by Choupo-Mouting) made the score 3-1. South African ref Jerome Damon had a mare I’m afraid – and without the dodgy free kick and penalty, who knows? Sada Vuddamalay, the General Secretary of the Mauritius Football Association (MFA) said in the programme that “Mauritius would play with guts” – and he was right.

L’Express summed it up quite nicely on the Sunday – Quand le courage ne suffit pas! A great day out though – and at least Club M got one goal and weren’t trounced. It was better than the 5-0 pasting they took in Cameroon last time around in the 2008 qualifying rounds. Roll on June 2011 when DR Congo come and then Senegal in October 2011. What a group! Perhaps Club M would have had more chance in Group F with Mauritania, Burkina Faso, Gambia and Namibia? Imagine seeing them in Gabon and Equatorial Guinea in 2012. Unsurprisingly, Mauritius have only qualified for Cup of Nations once – in Egypt in 1974 having beaten Lesotho and Tanzania on penalties in the qualifying group – goalkeeper Edouard Leste being the hero way back then. I think we might have to wait a long time to see Mauritius in the finals once again – but we live in hope. I believe professionalism of the league is needed! Once they sort their league out then an improvement in the national team will follow – of course, like most things on the island the ‘politicians’ are on to it but it will only happen when a politician gets a kickback. No less than three politicians got whole pages of the programme to themselves to deliver messages – Presdient Anerood Jugnauth “we must learn from the setbacks,” Devnand Ritoo, Minister of Youth and Sports, “I can assure everyone that my Ministry will extend all its collaboration for the advancement of sports and youth development” and Acting PM (while Navin is off courting France, lighting flames at the Arc de Triomphe) Ahmed Rashid Beebeejaun’s “appropriate measures have been initiated by the Ministry.” Despite this, Ile Maurices is a country that has only just introduced PE to schools - and incidentally allowed Creole to be taught in schools having for a long time denied many students from receiving an education in their mother tongue contrary to the UN Charter of Human Rights. I am not moaning. Having been here one year I love this island but it is so frustrating to see the gap between potential and reality. More recreational space, less shopping malls I say.

Those of you who know me well know I love books and I love research, so over the summer/winter break I joined Rose Hill library, it being just round the corner. Much of it is like any other library in the world and its internet access is the cheapest in Rose Hill at 50cents per minute. But some aspects were like going back in a time warp to Victorian Britain – the painfully slow registration progress, the handwritten receipts for everything (joining fee for books, joining fee for magazines, internet use, printing out a page of paper) the woman shouting at me because I’d crossed over into the Reference Library with books in my hand from the main library. As I’d put down on my application that I was a teacher, I was told I could use the reference library – which has an excellent Mauritian History collection that I want to plough through – but it seems cross-contamination is frowned upon. I read the latest Economist – and had to sign for it in triplicate. It took me longer to fill out the forms to get my hands on the magazine than it did to skim the articles. Very few of the books are in their original binding – most of them have been rebound by hand for protection purposes I am sure, but it means you look down aisle after aisle of books that look exactly the same apart from the cut out name on the spine. Laura has already been through most of their ‘tragic lives’ section whereas I’m finding it a bit harder to find much I want to read in the main library – luckily the bookcase at home is well stocked. I did find Tommy Boyd’s Wide Awake Club joke book there so that’s something to look forward to. In common with the rest of the world the most popular bit of the library are the computers and newspapers. No-one it seems wants to read books anymore…

There’s been an interesting kerfuffle in the news about comments made by the Choonee, the Arts Minister. He claims he has been taken out of context but whilst making a speech to a certain Hindu group, it has been alleged he said Navin Ramgoolam is ‘your’ Prime Minister, meaning a Prime Minister who is looking out for the Vaish caste of Hindus in this country and nobody else. Much ink was spilled in the press following this with Navin of course distancing himself from the comments – he had criticised Berenger for an election run on communalism (oh the hypocrisy) – but it was very interesting to see L’Express’ expose of just how many members of the Vaish caste were Ministers, CEOs and the like. I am sure Choonee was taken out of context as Navin is at war with certain elements of the press at the moment but if he did say it, he was only saying what a lot of people know but won’t say…

I read with interest this morning about changes in Port Louis – if The Independent is to be believed, Port Louis is set for nine new skyscrapers in the next few years – including a nineteen floor development on Farquhar Street. This will of course create thousands more jobs and move us ever onwards towards being the new Singapore. All great news, all is going well. Until you turn the page and see Mauritius was ranked 55 out of 139 countries in the World Economic Forum 2010-11 Global Competitiveness Report, White Sand Tours have gone into administration and at 4.5m tonnes, the sugar cane harvest is lower than that of 2009. Interesting times indeed. Perhaps L’Expresses words ‘quand le courage ne suffit pas’ did not just apply to the football?

THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD

2010-08-23T08:48:00.002+01:00

Not been up to much, relaxing now that the kids are back at school and now going in a van which picks them up outside our door and brings them back home again, usually exhausted, in the afternoon. I’m trying to psyche myself back up to try to get into a more work-focused frame of mind! Term starts worryingly soon – and even in a smallish school there is plenty to do, certainly seeing as the History Department doubles in number this year! Must get this blog out of the way and get back to the delights of reading about Mao Zedong…

I received quite a few comments and e-mails about my blog on the battle of Grand Port – which interestingly means people have been reading my blog – which always surprises me, yet pleases me too. Having now been down to Mahebourg as well as Pointe Canon, I am convinced even more so that they don’t really know what the purpose of this is and where the focus lies – I won’t go over old ground, but I’m glad to see people questioning and talking about History! (I could go on a rant here about people only seeing Business Studies, Accounts and ICT as a path to a career but I won’t. A path to a middling career perhaps… ) Anyway, down in Mahebourg there is at least some good art on display and the likes of Madagascan singer Tarika Be played there – she’s playing at Ebene on Friday night – which might be a good way to celebrate my 34th birthday! My God, that is halfway to 68…Not quite sure what a Madagascan singer has to do with 1810! As I said, at least people are talking about history and its uses and abuses. I am sure they are not mentioning the 200th anniversary of taking control of Mauritius back in Blighty…

Talking of blighty news reaches me that interestingly a certain Mr. ‘Pawel Nowak’ knocked on the door of my mum’s house asking for me, saying I knew him from the pub (nice ruse to get to talk to me, but I have never met said Mr Nowak) Obviously I wasn’t there – and later my driving licence was posted through my mum’s door. The very licence that was stolen along with my wallet from the Mazda not long before we left the UK! So Mr Nowak clearly knows something about this theft – all bank cards etc were cancelled but there were some sentimental things in there – photos of the kids etc, so I wonder if Mr Nowak would be as kind as to return it all rather than just the driving licence which I replaced and updated anyway. Oh, how the Daily Mail would love the fact he’s Polish.

Talking of reading habits, I’ve been able to plough through the The Guardian Weekly now I’ve got some time. It’s the right mix of news, features, reviews etc from the Guardian, Observer, Washington Post etc and of course I’m always getting the Independent to get my Mauritian news in English. I’ve even found a place that sells the News of the World on the Monday after it arrives, so I’m up to speed with the revelations about Peter Crouch. I still attempt to read the newspapers in French too – the Week-End being a meaty read, with few spelling errors. I found a couple in the Guardian which reminded me of my god-awful first teaching job at Winchmore School in north London where my ‘mentor’ did such a great job of bullying me I nearly quit the profession. I remember reeling with horror as they sent out the termly news-sheet to 1,500 odd parents, congratulating their offspring on their performance in the recent pubic examinations… Of course, there might have been something going on I didn’t know about…

On the island, its all doom and gloom. Rose Hill has seen a lot of rain recently and the aforementioned Week-End tells of a ‘douche froide’ for the Mauritian tourist industry which seems to be being hit hard. White Sand Tours has gone into administration and other groups who had it good for so long are also being hit by the fact very rich tourists are not coming in their droves anymore. This of course affects jobs and the island’s economy. Its sad to see NTC (National Transport Corporation) with their lovely blue ‘busses’ is losing 1 million rupees a month and might need a bail out from the government. I’m told they might have to sell its HQ at Ebene. No wonder they haven’t bought a single bus for the last five years – and it shows. When they used to run the 71 from Poudre d’Or to Port Louis! Oh the noise – even with my Ipod on full volume I couldn’t hear the music. The bus was shaking so much that it felt it would simply fall apart as it was in a Wacky Races cartoon…

Of course its bleeding obvious and probably true wherever you are in the world – but apparently the gap between the rich and the poor is growing? A recent survey showed that rich people over here now average 53,000 rupees per month, the poor average just 7,270 – a huge disparity. With the push to turn this place into the new Singapore, this is something that will just keep on widening. Die-hard rightists would tell us the trickle down theory prevented this… yeah, right. What is more incredible is that everyone’s favourite Minister of Health and Quality of Life, Maya Hanoomanjee has told parliament that 43% of Mauritians between the age of 24 and 75 are obese – mostly women. I find this hard to believe as most people I see around here are stick thin – even I’ve managed to lose some weight in a year. The response? Soft drinks have been prohibited in school canteens as a response – yes, that ought to do it – don’t bother with any of the much needed reorganisation of sports, or provision of open spaces, organised games etc…

Hence it was no surprise that there was a poor showing by Mauritius in the Youth Olympic Games in Singapore in Badminton and Athletics – all very ‘emperors new clothes’ – sports needs funding. The likes of Anjalay (which was one amazing I am told, and I can clearly see the potential there) lying in ruin. Where is all proper coaching despite all the ‘talk’ – which I was glad to see the MMM’s Lysie Ribot raise in parliament with Devnand Ritoo who of course gave the usual we will ‘apporte le soutien necessaire’ routine…

I briefly re-read Roseline Ng Cheong-Lum’s book Culture Shock Mauritius – A Guide to Customs and Etiquette. It’s a little dated now – so much has changed on the island since it was published in 1997 but parts of chapter 8, Doing Business With Mauritians struck a chord. “The general perception is that corruption is not as rife as it used to be. Corruption of public officers is perhaps unavoidable in a society where everyone is scrambling to better themselves financially. Sometimes you will find there is no other course of action but to grease the palm of somebody in authority” I of course thought of Patrick when I read this. Patrick of course runs a successful vending machine business on the island and is always talking about the Mauritian ‘mentality.’ We had a good chat about it on Wednesday – once again we were fed and watered well but now our place is taking shape we’ve at least been able to host a few family events of our own…

Mauritius got a great draw in the African Nations Cup qualifying – Cameroon, Senegal and DR Congo. Ouch! But at least I will able to see these three sides play (if I know someone who knows someone who can get me tickets, even if it will be painful watching Eto’o score five goals in each half – a England vs Andorra type mismatch? If Club M (as they are called) even get one point it will be amazing – perhaps in the home tie with DR Congo? Domestically, the League is not strong and hardly watched these days with people of course wanting to stay at home and watch the Premiership (which has gone goal crazy – Blackpool came back down to earth after their first day win and Newcastle against Aston Villa was a strange game indeed) Anyway, Pamplemousses SC lead the way, five points clear of AS Port Louis 2000 with my local teams US Beau Bassin-Rose Hill a lowly 11th! Going to one of the games is entertaining – not quite Kenilworth Road (a good 3-0 win away against Fleetwood on Saturday) but there is passion there… Like all things in Mauritius, we put our faith in the ‘developing’ side of the island. It will get there but it’s a long a winding road.

UNITED NATIONS IN MINIATURE

2010-08-08T11:14:00.000+01:00

It’s the middle of winter and I’m sat in t-shirt and shorts trying to type out another blog entry that maybe someone might read. I’m enjoying being in holiday mode and eight weeks holiday really is a gift from the Gods. We’ve been able to finally get the house together, do all those menial tasks that have been ‘pending’ for months and we’ve even got another pet – Jacob’s imaginatively named turtle Leonardo now has a friend – Donatello, although they are yet to fully get on. Leonardo spends most of his time sunbathing on the fake mangrove tree roots whilst Donatello is clearly a water baby and prefers paddling around in the water in the other end of the tank. I’ve been catching up on my non-curriculum related reading too – Will Randall’s Botswana Time was a nice easy read, about a guy who finds himself teaching at the Nokya Ya Botselo School in Botswana. Its not too heavy but, crucially, not patronising, and essentially optimistic. Despite the problems, he clearly enjoyed teaching there and as usual, someone else sums it up better than me – one critic writing “he’s an optimistic and self-deprecating writer whose travel tales read like a friendly chat over a long, leisurely lunch” – I enjoyed reading it and whilst our experiences as ‘overseas teachers’ are rather different, I did find some of the things he was saying striking a chord or two!

Of course Botswana has something in common with Mauritius – the only two countries in Africa to have been democracies continuously since independence. And Botswana of course have Seretse Khama to thank for that – although his marriage to a white woman didn’t go down too well and Mauritius can thank Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam. Just think if other countries in Africa had followed the same route after independence – putting the money into infrastructure, schools and industry rather than their own pockets like scum like Mobutu and Bokassa. The likes of Kuanda, Nkrumah and Nyerere showed promise but even these guys succumbed to greed in the end. I could of course add here that both Botswana and Mauritius were British before independence and hence they were ‘freed’ in a relatively good state – rather than those colonies such as Guinea or Mali – abandoned completely by the French because they said we don’t want to be outré-mer departements – see Martin Meredith’s The State of Africa (one of my favourite books) for more on this! I won’t say that though because that will make me look anti-French and that is far from the case – and I certainly won’t go on to how Franco-Mauritians still think they run things here and still look down on the ‘general population’ as Creoles must now be called.

Slightly more meaty is my current book Michela Wrong’s I Didn’t Do It For You, about the little-known Eritrea and subtitled ‘How the world used and abused a small African nation’ I’ve only just started it but already I’ve learnt that the Italians were not very nice there – grabbing land just for the sake of it in the ‘Scramble for Africa’ and that the war between Ethiopia and Eritrea was Africa’s “longest war.” I’m looking forward to more. The whole scramble for Africa thing fascinates me and I did try and get the Forms 2 and 3 thinking about it – with little success, although some students were able to see why borders such as Namibia and Botswana’s or Zambia and Angola’s are dead straight lines whilst an ‘older’ country such as Ethiopia had more natural borders. The Scramble for Africa is a huge area of interest for me, one I never really covered at A level or degree and one I am reading more and more about – its an event that has shaped the continent in which I now live. Must get round to Thomas Pakenham’s The Scramble for Africa sometime – it seems to be the recommended text for this topic.

With some spare time on my hands I finally got to take Jacob to the Aapravasi Ghat in Port Louis, the landing place of the indentured labourers who replaced the slaves. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its gradually being restored. Its obviously a fascinating place and where many of the Indian Diaspora believe the modern Mauritius began – although of course the Creoles have been here a lot longer and were treated brutally by the French sugar plantation owners. Enough before I am accused of communalism – although it reminds me of a joke one of my sixth form students once told me: We are a rainbow nation – just like a rainbow the colours never mix! As long as you remember the Chinese run business, the Hindus run government, the Muslims don’t mix at all and the Creoles are treated like second class citizens you will have a good understanding of Mauritian society.

Anyway – where was I? Oh yes, the Ghat. Well worth a trapse around. I’ve stated my views on 1810 previously – and in the weekly listings magazine Scope there was a very poignant cartoon on the Battle of Grand Port 1810 – with 1810 replaced by 2010 and a cannon replaced by a fountain pen in the shape of a cannon. Its certainly a battle of words and I’m glad to say most people seemingly share my point of view – or perhaps that should be the other way around! It is not the battle that should be being celebrated – it is clear only the French want to do that. It is not even the British victory that should be celebrated. It is the fact that the battle brought in a new chapter of Mauritian history that should be being celebrated. The more I think about it the more I wonder if any other country would celebrate a colonial war – would the South African government spend millions of rand celebrating the British annexation of Natal in 1843 or the Indian government spend money celebrating the Amritsar Massacre? As I keep saying this event is best celebrated by showing just how important this island was – Britain and France, the world’s two big powers at the time, were prepared to go to war over it. That to me speaks volumes and that should be the focus – not some French naval victory – incidentally, their only naval victory over the British.

So, finally back to the Ghat – a landing place for half a million indentured labourers throughout the nineteenth century. Obviously after the British abolished slavery in the Empire in 1833, something had to be done to keep the sugar plantations staffed. God forbid workers actually got paid – no, that would never do as it would eat into the plantation owners’ profits and also perhaps show some sort of racial equality. Slavery wasn’t formally abolished on the island until 1835 and some slaves were still clearly being treated as such as late as 1837. Robert Farquhar, the first British governor of the island, came up with the solution of indentured labour. In fact, it wasn’t his first idea – his first idea to keep the sugar plantation owners happy was to bring in convicts to do the work no-one else wanted to do. In 1817 he brought over 1,500 convicts from Bengal, Bombay and Ceylon. Some worked on the sugar plantations but most were put to work on public works. The indentured labour scheme was mooted as early as 1826 – records exist in perfect calligraphic script of the immigrant number, the date of arrival, name, the ‘Presidency’ from where they came – Madras (covering the huge area of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Kerala), Bombay etc, their caste and their employment. These records make fascinating reading and of course the British Empire’s bureaucracy makes all this traceable. The Creoles of course have no such luxury – many slave arrivals were simply not recorded and because they arrived much earlier, very little has survived. It wasn’t only Indians who were indentured labourers – the Queen of Madagascar, Ranavalona I is recorded as having sent 3,215 labourers to Mauritius between 1839 and 1845. 223 labourers came from the Comores too, and this added to the fact that the first African slaves on the island came from places as far afield as Senegal and Mozambique, shows why the Creole population on the island have very diverse roots. In fact, the whole island, and lets not forget the Chinese (first recorded as arriving in 1760) has roots from all over the planet. No wonder it is called the United Nations in miniature in some quarters.

All around the Ghat oozes history but sadly a great deal of it got knocked down or fell down. The granary that used to supply the whole island is now a car park – I wonder how many people spare any thought for that? The old immigration depot is of course Immigration Square Bus Station - and the prison the French built to hold runaway slaves is now The Mauritius Postal Museum! Of course the British smugly claim that they abolished slavery – and technically I suppose they did. However, the contracts these indentured labourers were on were pretty much the same as slavery (many were illiterate and couldn’t read their contract and ruthless agents were more than happy to rip them off) and of course the conditions they worked under were incredibly harsh as well.

Elsewhere on Ile Maurice, the light rail project keeps being talked about– minister for Public Infrastructure Anil Bachoo has told parliament it might be back on. It will be15 billion rupees well spent in my view. Has someone been reading my blog? (Don’t be silly. Ed.) Or perhaps less egotistically, has someone finally woken up and smelt the coffee? Something has to be done – and quick. Trains, bridges, bus lanes – anything! SPP Projects of South Africa apparently carried out a feasibility study on the ‘harbour bridge’ idea – and despite it clearly not being feasible, 11 applications were received
There’s a 70 million Rupee ‘decongestion’ PPP project (see Private Eyes passim for how this clearly does not work – yes, it gets the thing built but it means the government has to fork out outrageous sums of money for the next 40 years) The government seem to prefer a bus modernisation programme – but I am not sure how this will work. Just where will the extra bus lanes go? Taking Royal Road as an example, from Port Louis through to Coromandel, Chebel and upwards and onwards to Beau Bassin and Rose Hill, there just simply isn’t the space without knocking down hundreds of shops and houses. Watch this space… (like the island has been watching this space for the last 20 years…)

Its not a surprise that yet another person died on the roads here – making it 88 this year and of course that will sadly be a lot higher by the time I get to upload this. A 45 year old motorcyclist lost control at 2am in Pereybere and hit a cyclist – the cyclist survived but the moto driver died. I am sure lots of rum was involved. Navin Ramgoolam summed it very nicely when he said “This is not the police’s fault. It is just that some people don’t know how to drive” – rare honesty from a politician, but it begs the question, why are these people allowed on the roads then?

My favourite story of the week, albeit a sombre one, is of a certain 28 year old Mr Satianand Boodadhoo of Grand-Bois, who strangled his wife Dhanranee with a mobile phone charger cord – all because she objected to his wishes that is 24 year old mistress should be allowed to move into the house and live there with the happy couple. I mean, how unreasonable can you get… anyone would think this was the 21st century or something…

SEE YOU IN COURTS...

2010-08-02T09:23:00.000+01:00

Welcome to my first blog written from the comfort of my brand new desk! Its only been 12 months in the making but its worth it. I can sit here, type away and I get a not too unpleasant view over the mountain and beyond, with only the Stalinist architecture of the Catholic school in the way. The sky is unusually blue today – its been quite cloudy and chilly of late. It is of course winter, which really means wet and cloudy akin to a Autumn day back in the UK but when we were in Curepipe over the weekend to attend a wedding, it did get very cold indeed – only to be expected seeing how high up Curepipe is. Anyway, the desk has come complete with matching drawers and bookcase and I am much happier than I perhaps should be. Little things keep me happy as you may well know. I’m writing whilst Whilst waiting for the roast chicken – thought we’d do a traditional English roast to celebrate being here nearly 12 months. Everything is of course relatively straight forward - no stuffing mix though, although I prefer to knock up the stuffing myself. Bisto proved fine and in fact all those traditionally ‘hard to buy’ quintessentially English things such as Baked Beans, Marmite and HP sauce are very easy to get hold of. Even East Enders is on DSTV. Anyway, I have my desk and my bookcase but I don’t quite have the peace and quiet I envisaged – we’re currently looking after Kimmie, Loic as well as our two and Valentine is just about to arrive… great fun for Jacob and Amelie who get to play with their cousins but what about the adults? I am meant to be on holiday from young people – although it does remind me why I teach older kids!

Of course this being Mauritius, getting hold of the bloody desk was not as straight forward as it could have been – having taken all the paperwork we possess and then some to Courts, your friendly local credit facility, who dominate four floors of the shopping centre here in Rose Hill, it was only right that they would still something that wasn’t quite right – after all, this is Indian-style bureaucracy and you have to go from person to person as each one of you checks your paperwork over and over again. When that is done, the ‘office’ is then rung and they start the checking all over again. On the first attempt, my pay slips would not suffice - only a work contract would do, something to do with me being a non-citizen. I did want to ask them how I had got my payslips if I wasn’t working here legally, but I declined to mention this. Hence a trip to Northfields to ask Tracey to print me off a copy of my contract – it was good to see Mr Barnes one last time, although we’d done many formal goodbyes before then – I cannot believe he is no longer the Head. Best wishes to Gerry Young though who is keeping the seat warm for Mr Kuhne until January. Anyway, the contract was duly appropriated and I returned to Courts a couple of days later after a brief sojourn in the sunny surrounds of Calodyne. On our return, the contract was no longer sufficient. They now needed to see my work permit. I politely replied that I did not need one as I was married to a Mauritian citizen and the letter which I had provided a few days earlier made this clear. They had even photocopied the letter! Ok they said – and on we were passed. Imagine my reaction when official number 2 asked “Ok, looks good. We just need to see your work permit.” It was like Papa Lazarou and his ‘Hello Dave’ routine, when he simply will not believe Dave is ‘not there’. Laura even pointed out that the man at the Immigration Department had even said I could work straight away and without a permit through marriage as the law had changed. ‘So you don’t have your work permit?’ came the reply!! I had always wanted to say ‘This is a saga now Dave’ and thanks to Courts I finally had my chance…

The Battle of Grand Port 200th anniversary celebrations have begun – they last from 31st July to 29th August – and celebrate the only naval battle Napoleon managed to win against the British. 42 million rupees is being spent, according to the Minister for Education and Human Resources Vaswant Bunwaree, on exhibitions, sculptures and a battle re-enactment amongst other things down by the battle site at Vieux Grand Port near Mahebourg. 42m rupees! For what? Its certainly raised an eyebrow or two –
Toura Prayag, writing in L’Express calls the celebration a futile exercise and in many ways she is right. Hang on? A history teacher saying that? Of course I am glad history is in the news and my two lovely form 1 groups worked very hard on the presentations we put together on the topic – but I can’t help thinking the focus is all wrong. Its clear the momentum and pressure is coming from France, St Malo in particular, which is proud of the fact that Bretons such as Labourdonnais and Poivre made such a positive impact on Mauritius. That said, the French never did away with slavery and we cannot hide from the fact that many Franco-Mauritians got very rich on the efforts of black slaves. Why celebrate the Battle (which the British nearly won anyway)? Are the French trying to deflect attention away from the fact that only a couple of months after the Battle of Grand Port, the British landed in the north of the island and after marching on Port Louis, General Charles Decaen, the last French governor, surrendered rather easily?

Melissa Louis wrote a great article in L’Express along the same lines – highlighting the fact that the French Nobel Prize for Literature winner JMG Leclezio had questioned what people were actually celebrating? Are we celebrating war? Colonialism? Slavery? My view (and I am being objective here not nationalistic) is that the emphasis should be on the later events of 1810 – the British victory, largely because it explains to Mauritians another chapter of their history – the Portuguese, Dutch and French all made their mark. After 1810 it was the British’s turn – and whilst they allowed life to continue as normal, hence allowing French to remain the language etc, their ‘reign’ saw the end of slavery, the introduction of indentured labourers and hence the bringing of the Indian Diaspora to the island, the much-cliched administrative machinery and eventual independence in 1968.

That is what should be ‘celebrated’ – I even have an issue with this word – about 1810 – another chapter in this island’s history which explains more about the path Mauritius took towards its identity. Its even an opportunity to remind ourselves of the importance of the island and its role as a stop-off point on the lucrative trade route to India. Two European powers were prepared to go to war over the island – if only to stop the other dominating trade in India. Of course significant events need to remembered and we shouldn’t overlook what the soldiers and sailors went through, but this is very ‘old school’ style history – military victories, glory of war etc – rather than trying to explain the social, political and economic stories behind it. As Louis herself writes about 1810 “Maybe this is where we tell them that slavery was not a happy time and that it represented the terrible oppression of men over other men; that they should not be misled by the strangely happy-looking figurines of slaves at the historical village built in Mahebourg for the celebrations.”

The 15th African Peer Review Mechanism (very New Labour sounding?) was held in Kampala recently and Navin faced the music as it was Mauritius’ turn to be ‘peer reviewed’. The outcome was quite pleasing for those of us living here, although I think we all knew what they were going to say before the report was published. The plusses? Sound administrative institutions (thanks to the British Empire – Toura Prayag’s words not mine!), free health service – you should have seen the queues for the flu jabs. Colleagues of mine of course don’t lower themselves to go to the free places and seem actually surprised when I tell them Jeetoo has cured me but then again I realised very quickly the social and economic circles I am moving in as opposed to others. My great friend and colleague Thierry Adam and I often discuss the pressures of being the main wage earner whilst some others in the staff room are earning more than us and it is the second income. Still, who said life was ever fair? Back on the positives of the island note, the report also praised free education – of varying quality of course, free bus transport for schoolchildren and the elderly, a good pension, and life expectancy is remarkably high for an island where people drive like maniacs. Likewise, the negatives were foreseeable; marginalisation of Creoles, corruption in high places and traffic! The final comment from the APRM was ‘we are very proud of your success’ – that said, not everyone was involved – the NESC National Economic and Social Council claim they tried to canvass everyone’s opinions and views in gathering the data for the Peer Review but not everyone came forward – the NESC Chair’s conclusion – “Mauritian suffer from a great degree of apathy and they only react when they are directly involved or when their pockets are affected.” For some reason that last bit struck a chord with me – but couldn’t the same be said for most countries?

The Cehl Meeah case continues to be interesting. Meeah is the FSM MP from Plaine Verte – the only non MMM or Alliance de L’avenir MP, to be elected in the May elections, thanks to the large Muslim vote in Plaine Verte. The press here have been full of contradicting stories but he has appeared in court charged with “abducting a minor”. He says he has nothing to hide and has asked the judge for an early trial. In short, he’s accused of being with a 16 year old – Shenaz Bibi Noorah Abdool in the Victoria Hotel – the so-called ‘Room 216 saga.’ To make things even more interesting, The Independent claims Shenaz had said she’s married to Meeah – something his first wife might not agree with – and whilst Shenaz’s father seemed determined to pursue Meeah, there now seems to be talk of claims being dropped, which has led to much more whispering as to why. The latest I can fathom out is that Meeah claims Shenaz is one of his former students who was suicidal and needed someone to talk to because of problems between her and her parents and that is why he took her to the 4-star hotel. Not a great move, a view reflected by the many letters pages and the likes of ‘Philo’ in the News on Sunday who says at the very least Meeah has committed a huge ‘error of judgement’. Others go further and call on him to resign – Huram Abi, also in the News on Sunday says we don’t know what happened in the hotel room, but the fact he did not inform her parents of what he was doing is irresponsible. We have to remember though, no charges have been forthcoming. All very interesting – and then when the conspiracy theories are added, it reminds us that wherever people are in the world, politicians certainly keep us entertained!

Elsewhere, new traffic rules are to come in to force on the 1st August – rear passengers must wear safety belts, buses to have speed limiters and taxi drivers are to be fined for overloading. Mobiles are finally banned and hands-free kits too. Will it stop the insane driving? Probably not! Its far from controversial to say some people on the island don’t really care what the law says, certainly when it comes to the road! Interestingly, there are to be new number plates for all the 370,000 cars on the island (all of which seem to use the road from Port Louis to Rose Hill when I am trying to get home) – but of course these have been delayed! If things are to be believed, 2billion Rupees are to be spent on roads – we’re set for bypasses in Triolet, Goodlands and Flacq and a quicker road from Poudre d’Or to Port Louis. Ring Road Phases One and Two in Port Louis are ‘on track’ – are they? And apparently a consultant has been chosen for the Port Louis subway… yes, I had to read that sentence again too. Everyone’s favourite MP Rajesh Bhagwan summed up everyone’s feelings when all this was announced in parliament by asking Anil Bachoo, minister of Land Transport, if he was drunk. Quite.

We’ve got another shopping centre coming– this time at Flic en Flac, which of course is just what the island needs with the majority earning just enough to scrape by on the basics. Who is going to shop at these places? Bagatelle is taking shape too – so we will be given yet more opportunities to shop at designer shops – just like you can at Trianon about 1km south and Caudan about 5kms to the north. Ok – I like Super U, Kaddy Plus, Jambo and Lolo – I am European like that but designer shops? For who? Yes, they provide jobs but I will be very interested to see who the clientele are when Bagatelle ‘Mall of Mauritius’ is finished. Not I for sure, although we did have our first Mauritian Nandos last week at Trianon and I am pleased to report it is just as good as the stuff in the UK. I am much happier buying fruit and veg at the market – even though I am ripped off although slowly getting used to the prices I should be paying. There’s even a Local Co-operative run for the benefit of disabled workers nearby and they provided us with a very nice cauliflower for today’s dinner. Big enough for seven as well. Its going to be a tough week looking after five kids…

HOW CAN I GET TO KABIRU?

2010-07-20T06:03:00.000+01:00

It was 11 months ago today, Air Mauritius erm.. told the band to play.. well, slightly later than 11 months ago today, but you get the idea. Mauritius well and truly feels like home now – despite various illnesses, the heat and bureaucracy! The latest ‘only in Mauritius’ incident involved a bus stopping at the bus stop near Labourdonnais roundabout, allowing me to get on so that the driver could tell me that I couldn’t get on the bus here as it wasn’t allowed to stop because it was an Express – despite the fact it had just let two people off. Anyway, I’ve become quite used to this way of life and long may it continue. The island seems even nicer at the moment as I’m enjoying the eight weeks holiday Northfields so kindly gives us. Even better is the fact that the kids’ one month holiday overlaps with mine so we might actually get to spend some quality time together for a change – even though its winter, I hear the beach calling. Their end of term 2 concert at the Mahatma Gandhi Institute auditorium was brilliant – Amélie was part of the Moyenne Maternelle play and she happily danced at the front of the stage. Jacob played an archetypical Englishman (complete with my Panama hat) in the Form 1 performance of the song ‘Made in India’ – the staff deserve medals for all the work they put in as every student knew just what to do and when. Incredible – although it confirmed in my mind why I teach older students! Jacob and Amélie both received very good end of term reports and exam marks too so I’m revelling in the role of proud parent. I’m also picking up almost enough Creole to be able to converse with Jacob – he is becoming trilingual thanks to his cousins and his schoolmates, and very quickly too. A useful language if he wants to insult his dad I suppose, but thanks to my colleagues on the support staff Christophe, Rajiv and Vikash, and not to mention the ledgends that are Thierry, Jean-Loup and Yvon, I am now aware of some pretty lewd phrases myself…

The old cliché about time going fast rings true when I think about the fact I’ve now completed one academic year at Northfields. Where has the time gone? It seems like only a minute ago I was getting a guided tour by Mr Barnes and being shown my brand new classroom. I’ve really enjoyed the year and although I’ve still much to learn about teaching in an international school, I’ve enjoyed getting to know the students and building up a history department. I was pleased that my hard work was recognised in my end of year appraisal. Long may it continue is becoming an oft-used phrase but once again it is rendered true here. I’ve also made some great friends on the staff, who are a wonderful bunch, even a certain short Chemistry teacher who seems to enjoy winding me up non-stop!

Its sad to see Mr Barnes go – I’m not being sycophantic in saying that he truly is a great man who no-one seems to have a bad word about. I’ve been lucky in my teaching career – Mr Barnes was a wonderful inspiration this year and Mike Berrill at Biddenham was also a great leader. I know Gerry Young will be too in the interim before our new leader arrives from South Africa in January.

I’m sobering up after quite a drunken end to the school year – which involved the wedding of my colleague and friend Geerish, an Italian meal at Mamma Mia paid for by the Board (plenty of free wine thrown in too), a goodbye bash at the Barnes residence, Thierry’s stag do (the least said about that the better, although Laura it seems has forgiven me) and then Thierry’s wedding in the wonderful surroundings of L’Aventure du Sucre with the most amazing Lamb Rogan Josh I’ve ever tasted. If only my dancing had been as tasty…

As for what’s in the news, well, the jail break seems to have finally ended as a story. On day 16 of the jailbreak Steeve Monvoisin was finally captured, leaving just one person free and apparently he’s been spotted in Riche Terre – where else? Monvoisin was of course accused of being the mastermind behind the breakout. He was in prison in the first place for the theft of 51.6 million rupees from the MCB in Feb 2005 – incredibly only 3m has been recovered – and that was found under a bridge in Ebene! Bank employee Gerald Lagesse died on that day so whilst we may have some sympathy for a man robbing a bank rather than the other way around (as is the 21st century way) we can’t feel too sorry for Monvoisin. Two prison guards were attacked in Montagne Longue prison too last weekend. Who would be a prison guard here?

Bird flu has returned to island as well – 124 confirmed cases of AH1N1 (including the son of a colleague) with three people dying, one in Riviere du Rempart. No need to worry though, “its all under control” says Minister of Health and Quality of Life Maya Hanoomanjee – you’ll excuse me if I don’t pay too much attention to those words. That said, vaccination centres are being set up and there are a few doses of Tamiflu on the island. Of course, there are still more cases of ‘seasonal flu’ about but there seems to be a lot more people in the Jeetoo Hospital queues than normal – we were there again for Millie’s diarrhoea, which they treated very successfully for free.

One of the island’s living ledgends, Stefan Buckland, probably Mauritius’ best known athlete has retired at the age of 33 (something I wish I could do). He was in the top ten times set by 200m runners in the world for nine years which I find pretty impressive and he only missed a medal at the 2005 World Championships in Helsinki by a hundredth of a second. He has said he will turn to coaching – hopefully the island might return the favour by returning the Anjalay Stadium to its former glory. When we had the Northfields Athletics Day there it was clear it could be an impressive stadium once again. It was Northfields who had to report that the toilets and changing rooms were in an abysmal state (before our students got to them I will add before one of you makes a gag) – and this just two weeks before National Championships were due to be held there… Its quite a common Mauritian phenomenon I’m afraid – these things are built but then not maintained, or even worse, left to rot – see the oh so lovely Atrium ‘Shopping Centre’ in Rose Hill, now empty and falling apart. Still, at least a new shopping mall is being built in Bagatelle. Just what the island needs – more designer shops… The island will also have a new airport terminal, although its been announced it the new terminal at SSR Airport will take 24 months to build and will cost 10 billion rupees – I would double that. News has also hit us that the island’s first cricket centre, complete with proper pitches and grandstands, is to be built – paid for by the MCB and just a stone’s throw away from Northfields behind the Anjalay Stadium. Good news indeed!

Rose Hill life continues to be wonderful and I think we’re finally settled into the house – I still think we’re paying a little over the odds for it, but its modern, clean and well, the biggest house we’ve ever had since being married. We’re slowly getting what we need – slowly being the key word in paradise. The drama Skins is on the wonderfully named channel ‘June’ almost every night which makes the evenings go nicely and my domestic side has even seen me make some choc chip cookies on two occasions as well as growing tomato plants from seed for the first time. Life doesn’t get much better than that does it… (does irony come across on blogs?). Long may it continue..!!

COUNTING THE COST

2010-06-29T04:49:00.000+01:00

Disappointed doesn’t even begin to explain it – and although I know everyone’s talked about it for hours and I’ve read lots on blogs and message boards that sum it up nicely I’m still going to add my comments about England’s humiliation at the hands of the Germans. Where to start? There’s lots to say! Germany were more confident, more organised, fitter, stronger and tactically astute. They deserved to win, no doubt. England were disappointing in the group stages and even more disappointing in the warm up games, but Sunday just showed the mess the English game is in. Ok, once again England were the victim of a tragic refereeing mistake (like 1986) but even if Lampard’s goal had been given a scraped 3-2 victory could have perhaps been the best we could have hoped for, and that was unlikely the way England were playing. They looked lost, caught between different tactical systems and not being flexible enough to try things. Where was the creativity? The player who can makes things happen? They only played well for 15 minutes before half-time and the first five of the second half – why they only started playing when 2-0 down is a mystery. We’ll have to endure replay after replay of Lampard’s ‘goal’ – painful enough, but that goal not being allowed isn’t really the problem. 4-1 was not a fair reflection and if the goal had been given it would have been a completely different second half. England wouldn’t have pushed up as much and have been so vulnerable for the last two goals. What was evident from the start was that England lacked confidence (surely not still the result of Green’s handling error vs the Yanks?) the defence was in chronic disarray with no-one leading the line and Lampard and Gerrard didn’t track back at all. Something is obviously up with Rooney (he’s learnt well from Fergie that when things are not going right you have a strop and blame other people) and Glen Johnson is not international standard. Capello got it tactically wrong too – the Heskey option was not working against the USA when England were average and against Algeria where Algeria sussed England’s tactics out straight away and ground out a draw. Where was plan B? Why do England have an Italian coach trying to get England to play the Italian way when that is not how English players play? English players don’t patiently build up from back! Many questions have to be answered – why are so many of that squad average? Where are the alternatives to Glen Johnson? Why did John Terry choose the World Cup finals to have a bad patch? Why don’t we have any good goalkeepers? So many factors, so much to address.

The national team clearly plays second fiddle to the Premier League – it seems the players are more concerned about their club contracts and the marketing machine than playing for England. I like to think Rooney was still injured and not having a strop because he wasn’t being put forward as the saviour of the team. The Mauritian press were calling him ‘le Pele blanc’ – I am sure that didn’t go to his head. Premier League teams buy average foreign players as short-term fixes rather than thinking about the long-term future of the English game. Even in the academies Premier League teams have French, Spanish and Italian youths. Fair enough, it’s a global game, but it is the national team that suffers and surely it needs to be addressed. We can’t do much about the awful refereeing decisions, but we can start building for future world cups – not that Premier League bosses really care about that. Money is ruining the game – and I can’t believe I am now saying that because I was a great enthusiast of the Premier League and anything that got the likes of Gullit, Zola, Cantona, Ginola and erm… Florin Raducioiu playing in England. But we all know its gone too far now – crazy wages and marketing machines mean only two teams will ever win the Premier League again, young English players don’t get a look in and look at what the likes of the Glazers have been able to do with Manchester United. Meanwhile clubs like Chester, Stockport, Luton end up punished for going into administration, Chester ending up going to the wall with the other two going close (read Rob Hardgraft’s book on Luton which explains all their woes better than I ever could) and all the time Premiership teams’ overdrafts expand. I can’t believe I agree with Platini on something but finances need to be looked at. And goal line technology and FIFA’s behaviour and Sepp Blatter’s ego. We don’t want to go back the horrible days of public-school dominated amateurism, the FA choosing a national team by committee or politely declining invitations to World Cups as happened when the toffs were in charge – but likewise we don’t need New Labouresque spin at the top. And don’t start me on the shame of the French – ok so you want to send a message to Domenech – just don’t do it at the World Cup – millions of us would kill to get to that level of football. You guys think you can go on strike and not want to play for the national team? Where is the fight? Where is the lets have a go and we might win? Something was not quite right there. Good on paper, wobbly on grass. Shocking how he refused to shake the hand of the South African manager…

Other highlights – New Zealand getting three draws, Chile’s refreshingly attacking style, Ghana still flying the flag for Africa and Slovakia stopping Italy getting through the group stages. Sadly Argentina seem to be on a roll with Messi on fire – and a large helping from FIFA backed referees and assistant referees who clearly knew Tevez was miles off side for the first Argentina goal against Mexico, but the remembered FIFA don’t like big teams going out. You could almost see the embarrassment on their faces as they realised they had to give the goal to Argentina even though there was no justification. It will be good to see Argentina win the World Cup ‘properly’ though – in 1978 the military junta bribed the referees and somehow they got the 6-0 result against Peru they needed to advance at Brazil’s expense and of course in 1986 they result is null and void because if someone knowingly scores with their hand, it is not a goal. End of story.

The Mauritian Prison Service is also counting the cost because there has been a prison break from Grand River North West Prison. Thirty-three inmates escaped on Sunday night, although as I write on the Tuesday evening, the 18th prisoner has just been recaptured in Plaines Vertes. The prisoners escaped from Block C after attacking guards – only 16 guards were on duty for 150 prisoners! – although no guards were seriously injured. The guards went to Jeetoo hospital – where I myself went on Saturday and was very impressed with the service. I was checked in, went straight through to the doctor who gave me two injections for my allergic reaction rash and then gave me some pills – all for free. It seems to be working as Saturday night was the best night’s sleep I have had for a long time. Sunday night didn’t see me get as much sleep as we were in Curepipe. Patrick and Jessica entertained us royally once again, with Patrick cooking wonderful food as usual, and this helped ease the pain of the England result! The only problem was that of course even though this is a small island, in order to get to Mapou before 8am, I had to leave the house at 5.45am. Two buses and two hours later I was at work. How come? How can it take so long to get anywhere on this island?

Despite that, I still love the place – but how much longer will we be here? Sure, Paul Berenger, the leader of the opposition MMM is good at scare mongering but his recent attack on the likes of Rundheersing Bheenick contains some truths – Mauritius will be hit by the global crisis sooner or later. Already unemployment has hit 8.4%, public sector debt is 61% of GDP and inflation will be 4% by December 2011 say the Bank of Mauritius. Indeed, the BoM is “urging consumers to act with prudence” as a rise in both food prices and fuel is predicted. Seems quite similar to the stories I read coming out of the UK – cut, cut, cut and freeze, freeze, freeze. I won’t be sad to see some of the pointless shiny New Labour Quangos go – GTC, BECTA etc – but its all over the world that the poor and the middle income groups have to suffer so the big boys can be bailed out. Prudence might be rewarded though – those people who stretched themselves to huge monthly repayments because a mortgage advisor told them to do so, so he could get his commission might get what they deserve. Companies that lent money willy-nilly should come a cropper too. All some of us are trying to do is live, with a small few with no ethics whatsoever live only to make obscene amounts of money at other peoples’ expense. Back in Mauritius, despite huge pressures from pretty influential people, the Mauritian Rupee is not going to be devalued. Interestingly there are currently investigations into the prices of rice and butter beans – which are seemingly open to price fixing.

Elsewhere we learn that 43% of India’s foreign direct investment in channelled through Mauritius (tax avoidance anyone?) and that sadly Viveka Babajee, the 1993 Miss Mauritius has committed suicide in Mumbai. On a good note, there is talk of the Light Rail Project returning again – it is clearly the best answer to the congestion problem. The Chinese will undoubtedly build it and it might mean you can get from Rose Hill to Port Louis in 10 minutes rather than 110 minutes. What a life changing experience that would be.

PRISCILLA, QUEEN OF NAIROBI

2010-06-16T07:10:00.000+01:00

“You look tired” is how Joe Moffat, the IT technician and other Northfields Joe greeted me this morning. I nodded and lamented the fact that now I have been here 10 months I am still looking tired – largely because of the last couple of months which have seen me having tummy troubles, itchy skin, blood tests and being unable to sleep, the latter being the excitement of the World Cup perhaps? Anyway, its all part of adapting I am assured and hopefully within the next two years my body might be it! I think there’s also a bit of the automatic winding down teachers’ bodies do as July comes round. I certainly remember it from my seven years teaching in the UK and it’s a phenomenon that strikes students too. My mind seems to have adapted more than my body. I certainly feel at home here and I enjoy getting up each day, even if England’s football team are trying to depress all of with English blood.
Much as the World Cup has become a mass marketing exercise I still love it (not sure what Kraft Cheddar’s link with the World Cup is but they are still the official Mauritian cheese of the World Cup I am sure) I’m enjoying helping Jacob complete his Panini album – pleasantly surprising to see Panini on sale in Mauritius and with the help of some Form Is and IIs we’re doing well. I thought many people over here would have France as their second team, but such is the Premier League’s marketing skill that England appear to be most peoples’ number two – even after the USA debacle. Brazil and Spain are fancied highly here with Germany, Argentina and Ghana also followed. Can England do it? In short, no! Capello got England qualifying in style but the team just looks a little disjointed at the moment – its great to see the pace of Lennon and Wright-Phillips being considered but not so great to see Heskey being used as a target man in a long-ball game. The USA put two men on Rooney and effectively stifled any creativity. King was an injury waiting to happen, Carragher is too slow, Lampard had a nightmare and Joe Cole was needed to be a creative spark. Only Gerrard, Terry and Lennon emerged with any real credibility, maybe Ashley Cole too. Green’s error of course didn’t help. A clanger like that could only happen to England (or Algeria the next day, and nearly Ghana, although Richard Kingson is not a great keeper). After the howler, the whole confidence of the team dropped, USA put ten men behind the ball and hoped to counter with Donovan and Altidore’s pace. Lets hope Friday against Algeria sees a different game altogether! Hopefully Capello being Italian himself has brought the start slow, finish well mentality with him. I hope. I mean, Italy once again drew their first match of a Finals last night with Paraguay. Australia looked totally unprepared, as if Verbeek didn’t know what team to put out and Cameroon failed miserably, like England, relying too much on one man’s hype, good as Eto’o is.

Japan played very well as a team and closed down effectively. Holland looked good, Sven managed to motivate the Ivory Coast in the second half more than he ever could with England, Ronaldo continues to cheat by diving every time someone comes near him and as has already been said, Germany and Argentina seem to have started on fire. Never write those two off, although we’ve seen enough matches between those two thanks – the 1990 Final was dire after all the amazing matches on the way there – Oman Biyik’s header to beat Pumpido, Milla’s samba and of course the Indomitable Lions nearly beating England in the quarter-finals… Lets hope these finals pick up a bit – the vuvuzelas and the new ball are clearly having an effect – apart from South Africa’s goal against Mexico have we seen a long shot going anywhere near the goal yet??? Slovakia’s goal should never have stood so it was great to see New Zealand equalize in the 93rd minute. Brazil were always going to win against North Korea – like all the ‘big teams’ they’ve started slowly but you knew they could always step up a gear. North Korea certainly know their way around a football pitch but they will always be shadowed by the crazy paranoid Stalinist state they come from – more on that I am sure in a later post – the BBC World ‘Reporters’ programme from North Korea was almost laughable had the issues covered not been so serious.

Away from the World Cup, both of my beloved Form I groups have been working on a project for the English Speaking Union commemorating the 200th Anniversary of the Battle of Grand Port and the subsequent taking over of the island by the British. Ok, we’ll overlook the actual battle in which the British took a pasting despite a promising start! Its an interesting facet of Empires isn’t it that the British only really wanted to control Mauritius to stop the French doing so. The French had been using the Ile de France as a base to attack British shipping on the profitable trade route round the Cape of Good Hope and onto India. Corsairs were using the island as a base, a kind of mid-Indian Ocean Service Station and so the British decided to teach the French a lesson – they were sick of the ships of the East India Company, setting sail from Bombay or Calcutta loaded with millions of pounds worth of goods for Britain being captured in Mauritian waters. Sadly for the Brits, between 20th-27th August 1810 they lost – Samuel Pym, Nesbit Willoughby and his frigates the HMS Sirius, HMS Iphigenia, HMS Magicienne and HMS Nereide took one hell of a beating by Guy-Victor Duperre and Jacques Hamelin. 105 British soldiers died, 163 were wounded and all survivors were captured whilst the French only lost 37 men.Sirius and Magicienne were scuttled – bits of which are still down there with other recovered relics being on display in the rather good museum in Mahebourg. Interestingly fact fans, the Battle was the only French naval victory during the Napoleonic Wars and is inscribed on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

However, all was not lost for the Brits. I prefer to concentrate on the events of December though. The British did not give up and in December 1810 they arrived once again on the island, more determined than ever to take control of not just Ile Maurice but Rodrigues and Reunion too. That would teach the French a lesson or two. Ile Bonaparte (Reunion) was captured by the British in July 1810 and its name was restored to Ile Bourbon. Then came the serious business – in late November 6,848 Brits and Indians, on 20 warships under the wonderfully named Albemarle Bertie (not a PG Wodehouse creation) on his HMS Africaine landed near Grand Baie in the north and marched towards Port Louis (or Port Napoleon as it had been renamed under the Napoleonic regime). Not long later, despite a little bit of defiance, Charles Decaen, the French governor of Ile de France surrendered and Britain finally had control of Ile Maurice – the last French territory in ‘Eastern Africa’ was gone. Robert Townsend Farquhar became the first British governor and the island became known as Mauritius once again. Unlike in other parts of the Empire, the French language, customs and laws were allowed to continue – further illustrating the fact that conquest was just to protect trade with India. After the Napoleonic Wars ended in 1814, Reunion was returned to France and Mauritius remained British until full independence in 1968. There is of course the small matters of the end of slavery and the arrival of indentured labourers from India to talk about but hey, you’re probably very bored by now, if indeed you have reached this far. Back to report writing it is then.

HAPPINESS IS A DRY FART

2010-06-08T10:00:00.000+01:00

Well, apologies, apologies – not that you’re probably too worried that I haven’t updated the blog for so long. The truth is that, well, I’m obviously feeling a little too settled – next Wednesday sees the ten month milestone chalked up and three weeks after that I get my eight week break. I think I will need it. I know I will get no sympathy, but I’m bloody tired. At the moment its exam season – and as I teach all Forms, from 1 through to Lower Sixth, I am busy preparing exams, helping students revise and then of course someone will have to mark them – oh, that will be me then.

And to think we’ve just had a holiday too – or a ‘holiday’. We got Monday off as an extended weekend for our mid-term break. What happened to the good old week long half-terms eh? IPS, our feeder school, has just introduced one and wanted us to follow suit but we are slap bang in the middle of exam season now and I can see the logic of not giving us a week off – not when such a long break is not that far off. I did have the delights of taking Jacob and Amelie to school with Jacob being in the middle of telling me some of the Hindi he has been learning before a huge bang in the back of the bus told us some guy had pranged his brand new BMW into the back of our NTC bus to Port Louis. No-one was hurt, and I didn’t want to laugh but I did. Typical Mauritian male machismo – thinks he can take a bus on.

There’s going to be big changes at Northfields – I can’t see much here on some of them, but seeing Clive and Jane Barnes go will be a big shock. Mr Barnes has been so supportive to me since I have been here, made me one of the Northfields family and he’s been instrumental in getting me up and running. I’ve worked hard too though on my side of the deal and the History Department is certainly making an impact here. More to come of course! The new Head issues and the new curriculum are still being tweaked and are therefore under wraps but I think the latter is certainly going to help Northfields into its next stage – we’ve got a waiting list for September, for the first time ever.

Interesting cost cutting measures from the UK – BECTA and the GTC are to go and the vocational diplomas (which were never going to work anyway) are to go. The GTC seemed to be an awful waste of money – typical New Labour bureaucracy – lets have a glitzy website with no real substance and I’m not sure where I stand on their regulation either. Undoubtedly bad teachers have to go, but I’m not quite sure what the GTC were doing regarding my favourite word ‘standards’ – what are ‘standards’ anyway, other than something the right-wing press say are sliding in state schools. A-levels too easy, GCSEs too easy – I would love to have seen a Daily Mail hack, who only got the job because of who they were related too, or because they were so desperate for the job they would do anything and lose all credibility, take the Historiography of Elizabethan England paper we used to do in England. Standards in marking may have dropped – one former student of mine got a U in January and then an A in June. Even taking into account other factors, there is no way that discrepancy is possible. We got the scripts sent back and went through them with a copy of the markscheme to hand. There was no justification for the grades other than the fact it was marked by someone with little or no experience of a historiography paper who didn’t really know the expectations of the paper. The Exam Board even admitted there had been errors when we appealed but weren’t prepared to do anything about the grades as it would set a precedent and other schools would appeal too! Call Richard Littlejohn – you couldn’t make it up. That’s the kind of issue the GTC should be looking at – marking, particularly at A-level.

And today we learn that IGCSEs are to be brought into replace GCSEs in core subjects – largely because they don’t have coursework and apparently are ‘harder’. How do you judge? If more students are getting As then maybe its because the teaching is better? Ever thought of that? Or, to be brutally frank, and this is where the real issue is being overlooked a grade A in History, Biology or English Lit should not be worth the same as a grade A in Media Studies or Travel and Tourism, and yet it is. This is where the real problem lies. God forbid that children might be working harder and be cleverer too. They might one day want to take the jobs away from those hacks whose only skill is to manipulate truths, to rehash bits of Wikipedia and slavishy toe the line of the paper’s proprietor. Vested interest to make the future of the UK look stupid? Of course! If they were educated would they read the right-wing press?? You treat education as a political football and you are not going to get the best education system in the world. Its still held in very high regard around the world though… lets see what the Tories and Libs do rather than throwing money at a system with stipulations that it can only be used in this shiny new New Labour initiative. Even Gifted and Talented is to go back to individual schools to administer. Why did it ever leave their hands? Can’t believe I’d ever say this but when it comes to education, I am glad New Labour are out.

Hopefully England won’t be out of the World Cup very quickly. Four days to go and as usual I am childishly excited. Every time I think of the World Cup I think of my first experience of it – watching the 1982 episode in Spain, filling in my Ladybird book and even at the age of 5, nearly 6, realizing Socrates, Zico, Falcao and Junior were legends. New Zealand were there then and perhaps more surprisingly so were Scotland. And of course its when Cameroon announced their arrival, Algeria beat West Germany who then conspired with Austria to go through. Don’t mention Keegan’s missed header versus Spain. Jacob seems obsessed with Brazil – maybe my words are be rubbing off on him. He’s become a big fan of Pele and he now asks to watch Escape to Victory… Strange. We’re only two hours ahead of SA here so it won’t have to be too late staying up on Saturday to watch the England game, then it’s a Friday and only the Wednesday game versus Slovenia might be an issue. The final, which of course England will be in, is a Sunday so that’s perfect…

NINE MONTHS CHALKED UP...

2010-05-17T05:51:00.001+01:00

Yet another week has flown past, although this Friday saw me more exhausted that normal having helped out on the Form 3 (Year 9, 13/14 year olds) two night camp down at Senlis-Sur-Mer, a Christian retreat backing on to the sea in the south of the island. I have to admit I quite enjoyed it – they were very well behaved and I didn’t have to leave the peace and quiet of the staff dorm too many times during the nights there to tell them to shut up. I got to see the south of the island which I rarely get to view, and it really is interesting to see how peaceful and quiet the likes of Souillac, Surinam, Riambel and Britannia are. Its not 50kms from Port Louis but it could be a different country at times. Geerish Ramgoolam (no relation) the Maths teacher who was the other male teacher on camp, whose good humour was a real bonus, told me the south is like a flatter Rodrigues rather than Mauritius. I couldn’t comment as Rodrigues is still high on the places I want to visit list – along with Reunion, Seychelles, Madagascar, Mayotte, Mozambique, Kenya and of course South Africa again. One day maybe… The kids busied themselves abseiling, river walking, designing fashions out of bits and pieces, beach games and some interesting ‘camp theatre’ – I would like to add that Nadeer’s impression of me was nowhere near accurate! Most of the teachers got a gentle ribbing but hey, that was part of the ‘camp spirit’. Just a reminder that even if you are not doing History for IGCSE next year Nadeer, I will still be your form tutor and will be responsible for your references…

Congratulations to Chelsea on completing the double – they are Man Utd are miles ahead in terms of consistency and attacking flair combined with defensive solidity. Its nice to see a different team win the league, although the fact these two will dominate the league for the next ten years is quite a boring prospect indeed. Liverpool are no longer ‘top four’ material thanks largely to Benitez and his average signings. Torres was a master stroke, Gerrard is a midfield legend but Kuyt, N’Gog, Lucas, Aquilani… Are they really broke? Why do managers go for average? I mean, I for one was really surprised a team with Hayden Mullins, Kevin-Prince Boateng, Aruna Dindane and Ricardo Rocha in it ended up being relegated. The incredible thing is if you think of the combined wages of the above. And why only nine points for administration? Other teams get ten! Chelsea’s 8-0 thrashing of Wigan in such an important game spoke volumes to me.

Quite frequently I walk through Port Louis in the early evening. Laura often calls from Ste Croix saying she is staying there to finish off some papier-mache or some such project so I get the bus up from Rose Hill later on so I get to see Jacob and Amelie for at least some of the day. Millions would disagree but I love the walk from Victoria Bus Station (where all the buses from the south and the midlands arrive) to Immigration Bus Station (where all the buses heading north and east leave from). Its quite quiet around 6.30pm when I am usually there (in fact the whole island is quite quiet from 6.30pm unless you are in Grand Baie or Flic en Flaq or there is an event on) and I have to say it takes my breath away. Caudan looks magical and I often stop to have a quick chat to Labourdonnais, still proudly looking out to sea after all these years. I enjoy looking the other way too, up the Place D’Armes towards parliament and Queen Victoria’s statue. The tall palms and the humid air remind me I am in the tropics, even with winter officially arriving on Sunday! That view was one of the things I loved when I first came in 2005 and now I go past it every day. Strange how life works out! Even the walk past the market excites me, with just a few stragglers sitting at the side of the road clearing up the stalls as most people have long gone. Some people argue it may not be safe – indeed one night when I was bit late and only just caught the last bus out of Immigration going via Ste Croix I got talking to a man who told me to watch out in Ste Croix as its ‘very violent.’ Violent enough for me to have lived there for six months without a single problem at all? After the Calodyne incident I feel I could give a good account of myself – note this is not a challenge to would-be muggers. You will be sadly disappointed, although you are free to mug me of my debts…

Election fever has died down over here – not much in the papers, other than praise for Ramgoolam from his ‘ancestral home’ in Bihar where apparently he is seen as a hero and a role model for poor villagers there – perhaps something to do with the money he donated when he visited last year? Stalin would have been proud of the article in the ironically named Independent. The promised changes of bridges over the harbour, tunnels under Pailles haven’t materialised (shock!) so the traffic in Port Louis remains monstrous. But hey, the expats are getting the motorway doubled in width north of Pamplemousses so they can get from Grand Baie to Port Louis more quickly. Wouldn’t want those on the IRS schemes to be inconvenienced now. Apparently vegetable prices have come down so we should rejoice - maybe most of us might be able to live on our salaries this month. The inappropriately named Independent also carried a piece on how the Creole group Nou ena nou plas dans larkansyel lavenir e developman (There is room for us in the rainbow development of the future) believe the Creole community were right to vote Alliance de l’Avenir rather than Berenger’s MMM – you may remember the MMM only got one member elected in true purple Port Louis Nord/Montagne Longue. Unsurprisingly the FCM (Federation des Creoles Mauriciens) led by Father Jocelyn Gregoire were not happy at this news and continue to press the need for electoral reform. For reasons of room, the Independent could only find space for negative comments and a slating of Father Gregoire rather than admit the FCM have a case. Indeed, its clear the only way communalism will ever end is electoral reform, starting with changing the circonscriptions and the best loser system but whilst all candidates say ‘no to communalism’ they won’t ever change the boundaries. No to nepotism might be a more relevant campaign line but can you imagine Mssrs Ramgoolam, Duval and Jugnauth proposing that one! Still, I praise the Independent for giving me a daily digest of the news in English, and unlike the News on Sunday, it actually makes grammatical sense more often than not. The News on Sunday are very proud of their Swedish intern who is clearly acting as chief sub-editor. Knowing what Mauritian men are like, I wonder how she got the job…

The University of Mauritius study that showed 2,500 child prostitutes on the island was a shocking piece of news – saddening really, and yet another reminder of how divided this island is, both financially and socially – from the pious Hindus through to the ‘anything goes’ Creoles – of course this is how it appears in the Big Book of Mauritian Racial Stereotypes. I was gently ribbing Rajiv, one of the Northfields support staff, about the fact he was up until 2am drinking the night Ramgoolam won the election despite not knowing a single Ramgoolam policy and voting for him only because he was Hindu – and they had the cheek to call Berenger’s campaign ‘communualist’!

Whilst of course such things are strictly taboo and couldn’t possibly be happening on the island you’d have to be blind not to notice the many ‘Coiffure et esthetiques’, with their ‘back rooms’ where after your haircut you can get a few extras (for as little as 500 rupees I am told) from a former heroin addict, slowly trying to rebuild their life but clearly showing the psychological damage done to their own self-esteem as they service yet another rich expat or Mauritian businessman. I suppose that its ‘better’ than picking up someone from the street – these are clearly heroin addicts, you can see it in their faces as they wait by Caudan for another customer to help fund their addiction. AIDS is currently not a major problem on the island but if this goes on it may well become so. It’s the age old question – if the woman is not being forced into it, is it wrong? Does it actually prevent sexual abuse and rape or does it encourage the view of women merely as sex objects who will do anything if the price is right? There are further socio-economic considerations too – why, in 2010 are so many people in the world so poor that they have to consider such things? Better stop there as that is dangerously communist and the Americans will fund a covert ‘coup’ to get rid of me. Thank God those days are gone – if Chavez had been around in the 1970s we all know what would have happened – c.f. democratically elected left-wing government of Allende in Chile. Someone vaguely left-wing? Being democratically elected? Sod what the people think, Uncle Sam is always right. Surely one of the many breaths of fresh air Obama brought with him was the end to ‘enforced regime change’ favoured by previous regimes solely for the benefit of the USA. Its great to see their star falling and China and India’s rising. We live in interesting times for sure.

Back in the UK the ‘dream team’ of Cameron/Clegg seem to have settled in and Brown is finally out of the job that he clearly wanted but just didn’t have the smooth PR image that a 21st century demands, somewhat ironically as it was New Labour that brought in the era of spin! Policy in the UK doesn’t really depend on what party is in power – whoever you voted for you will get pro-bank, pro-consultant, pro-outsourcing decisions, letting the rich get richer and the poor get poorer overseeing a further decline in the moral and economic bankruptcy of the country. Only tightening public sector jobs and pay can be the answer to the financial mess that the private sector and its unregulated greed got us into. Blame the Guardian jobs page – the Daily Mail does incessantly. Non doms, PFI deals, expense fiddling MPs and tax dodgers who register their businesses in places like erm.. Mauritius, though appear to be fine. Greece has shown us the wondrous achievements of capitalism and with Spain, Portugal and Italy to come next, the great Franco-German Euro dream will come tumbling down. Thank God we still have the pound – we can be so smug about it all. Interestingly, as Private Eye points out – Greece’s budget deficit is 13.6% of GDP which has required a huge bailout from the EU and IMF. Britain is not lagging that far behind with 11.6% of GDP as its budget deficit. Thanks Gordon - those banks really deserved a bailout. Bankrupt Britain anyone?

As regular readers know, this blog really started life as my Friday therapy and I still see it as that, but its great to know, via Google Analytics, just how many people are accessing the site – so thanks for coming! Please keep coming back and I will try not to bore you although that cannot be guaranteed. Thanks to Simon for leaving the following comment which really interested me -

Hello Joe ,

Yours was the only site returned by a Google search for "What have the labour party become" .

If I was a rank and file member of the Labour party that is the question I would be asking .
I very much doubt it will even occur to members of the shadow cabinet though. All they will be concerned with is getting back into power.

Agree, your last paragraph sums it up .

The majority of the new cabinet will be decent enough people. Wonder how long it will take for the power to corrupt them .

We live, as I keep saying, in interesting times! Much truth can be found in jest, although as you know, a great deal of what I say is heavily tongue in cheek – I blame the fact I have read Private Eye religiously since I was 13. I love Navin Ramgoolam deep down and I know he is the man to bring my adopted homeland in to the 21st century.

Long may Private Eye continue – satire is one of the only things that keeps us all sane as the reality is often just too unbelievable.

MORE OF THE SAME

2010-05-07T09:30:00.004+01:00

Well, its all over – three days of excitement, culminating with a day at the in-laws in Sainte Croix watching the results flood in. It initially looked good for Berenger , the island’s first non-Hindu Prime Minister when he held the post from 2003 to 2005 and the MMM but as the day wore on more and more circonscriptions turned to the Red, White and Blue of L’alliance de l’avenir and by 5pm it was clear Navin Ramgoolam was to remain Prime Minister. Throughout the day each circonscription announces ‘partial results’ which give you an idea of how voting is going in each circumscription and at one stage MMM had Savanne and Grand Baie but alas it couldn’t last and by the end of the day the MMM’s only 3-0 wins (each circumscription elects three members) were in Rose Hill and Beau Bassin. Even ‘true purple’ Sainte Croix only returned one MMM member as Ramgoolam cleverly put forward a creole female candidate to test peoples’ loyalties. Ramgoolam’s victory speech showed, to me, he wasn’t quite in touch with most of Mauritius, but in reality whichever party – Ramgoolam’s Mauritius Labour Party (can someone remind me how Navin Ramgoolam got the job as leader of the MLP?) Jugnauth’s Militiant Social Movement (again, I wonder how Jugnauth got the job as leader?), Duval’s Mauritian Social Democrat Party (once again how did he get that job?) or Berenger’s MMM – was to win, there would be little difference. The ethnic splits and the lack of opportunities for creoles would still remain. I’m still not convinced these people know the meaning of Militant or Socialist, but hey, at least old people and students get free travel on buses now and some health care is free. The fact people cannot afford to eat with food prices being so high has strangely not been discussed during this election. Nor the crime figures, nor the huge amounts of drug use on the island. Opportunities for creoles must have slipped peoples’ minds too… but hey, the posters looked good. Now we get to see what Ramgoolam’s ‘L’avenir ensam’ looks like – and I can’t wait for this brighter future for everyone…

Ramgoolam’s speech blamed Berenger for a campaign based on communalism – the irony not being lost as Ramgoolam was then anointed by a Hindu woman basically reminding us who really is in charge of Mauritius – and it is Berenger who is a communalist? People knew which way each circonscription would vote before the votes were announced. So in the end the result of the election, the ninth since independence, was that the Red, White and Blues got 41 seats, the MMM got 18, the Mauritian Solidarity Front got 1, thanks to the Muslim vote in Plaines Vertes and Rodrigues returned two members of the Rodrigues Movement to keep that island’s interests alive in parliament. Percentagewise, the contest appears close - Alliance de l'Avenir got 49.31% of the total votes with Alliance du Coeur seizing 42.36%. Turnout was estimated at 78%, down from 81.5% in 2005's election and perhaps reflecting a worldwide trend of tiredness with politics, the lowest turnout since 1976. Only ten women were elected to parliament which perhaps reflects the ‘developing’ part of Mauritius’ tag as ‘developing country’

Maybe I was being too cynical but the MBC appeared to have a clear bias towards the Red White and Blues. Granted, the counts finished at different times, but they kept going back to Quarter Militaire and Moka to show hoardes of flag waving supporters of the Alliance de L’Avenir. When Berenger’s result was announced in Rose Hill or when the MMM won in GRNO and in Beau Bassin very little coverage was given. To an outsider, it seemed strange. Watching the BBC’s excellent coverage of the UK elections which started not long after the MBC coverage finished, there was a marked difference in impartiality.

Interestingly, a further eight seats are designated by the Electoral Commission, a sort of ‘best loser’ system, designed to ensure a balance (if that is the right word) of ethnic groups in parliament. Candidates have to declare which ethnic group they belong to – Hindu, Chinese or the wonderfully named ‘general population’ – no longer creole – in order to run for a seat. 104 candidates this year refused to do so and therefore were disqualified! 529 candidates stood – leaving some independents to gain just a few votes. One guy who got 17 in Port Louis Maritime actually had the returning officer laughing as he read out the result. How unprofessional…

Elsewhere, tired of Canal+’s sports coverage I thought I would try MBC Sports – basically just Indian sports shown with an MBC Sports banner. Watching Sports Hour last night between elections was entertaining. They clearly know their cricket and hockey but pronouncing Matthew ‘Eeey-ther-ington’ was a struggle and apparently Peter Crouch scored for Manchester City as Tottenham won 1-0? A-ha Alan Partridge.. Of course there was also the suspension of Frank Rye-bery (up there with those other legends L-yne-aker, Can-tone-a and Z-ye-dan. (admittedly this gag doesn’t work as well when written down). Congratulations to Marseille too for finally winning a title legitimately – oh for those days again when the Italians and French were cheating their way to European titles and UEFA did nothing because it meant British teams weren’t winning them. Luton get at least another year in the Blue Square Premier thanks to York. I’m not excusing the pitch invasion but there’s only so much injustice fans can take. How much debt are United in? Portsmouth today announcing 135 million quid of debt…

Watching the UK election from afar has been interesting. As I type it looks like the Lib Dems might have a key role to play in shaping the government. It was pleasing to see the Greens get a seat, crooks like Jacqui Smith lose their seat and interestingly Bedford and Nuneaton, two places dear to my heart, both turned Conservative. The 90 odd gains by the Conservatives were only to be expected as the reactionary middle classes voted with their feet - people in the UK tend to have rather short memories. Like Mauritius though, it doesn’t really matter who you vote for as policies appear thin on the ground.

PENA CASTE SYSTEM. ENA CASH SYSTEM

2010-04-20T08:39:00.001+01:00

You won’t believe that despite being on holiday I am actually working quite hard – Laura is back at work and the kids are at school and yet I find myself busier than ever as I try to put the finishing touches to a textbook project I am working on for my Dad. I suppose it gives me something to do. I managed to get the stuff I needed to do for Northfields out of the way last week, in-between taking the kids to the beach and to the wonderful Park Balfour, which I was told of by colleagues – Jacob and I got to see yet more tortoises and the view across the valley is spectacular, revealing nine waterfalls – Jacob counted them all. We actually walked to Park Balfour which isn’t exactly just round the corner – but walking places in Rose Hill is that bit easier. The TV weather forecast frequently shows that up here on the central plateau it is six degrees cooler, even more so in Curepipe. So on Sunday when we drove back through Port Louis having spent the weekend in Calodyne at Valentine’s 6th birthday bash, it was no surprise to see the thermometer on the Mairie of Port Louis say 31 degrees. Back here in Rose Hill the thermometers read 25 and add to that the fresh air and breeze and my English bones are a lot happier. Oh to think of those December and January nights in Port Louis with the still hot air making sleep impossible. However, I was not so happy to discover at the weekend the location of the new Baobab factory – its going to be in St Antoine – understandably as Bruno and Dhorene are sick and tired of trying to cross Port Louis every morning (aren’t we all?) and thus rendering BOTH of us miles away from where we work… Yes, it’s a small island but over an hour to go 30kms? Fortunately I am a townie at heart and with Port Louis out of the question, Rose Hill is the only real alternative in terms of being nearish to Mapou, being able to live well without a car and in terms of temperature. Laura is going to seriously turn her hand to her papier-mache business which was doing very well thank you before she left for the UK all those years ago…

All over the island, election fever is reaching new heights – most roundabouts and street lights are adorned with the red white and blue of the Alliance de L’Avenir or the purple of Paul Berenger’s MMM and the newspapers and TV are full of it. I have to say I’ve got quite caught up in the buzz – this place really cares about its democracy – even though as a poll in L’Express found “80% des Mauriciens n’ont pas confiance dans la classe politique!”

On ‘Nominations Day’ I had the joy of watching a specially extended news on MBC where the name and party of each and every candidate was read out. It took a long time – seeing as there are 20 circumscriptions (constituencies to you and me) and Mahebourg alone has 39 candidates! In fact, the lowest number of candidates in any circumscription is 16 in Vacoas – where the wonderfully named Atma Bumma (no giggling at the back) is standing for the MMM. The, in my opinion, increasingly ‘losing it’ Berenger (who was accused of ‘doing a Cameron’ and airbrushing his posters) is up for election in our neck of the woods, circumscription 19, Stanley/Rose Hill. Sadly I don’t get a vote and I think I made my application for a postal vote in the UK election too late to make it count – the first election in a long time I will not have voted which shames me but there are extenuating circumstances.

Savanne/Rivière Noire has the most number of electors of any circumscription with 58,341. Port Louis is divided into four circumscriptions (Port Louis Est being the smallest of all circumscriptions with just 22,488 electors) with, amazingly, the Alliance de l’Avenir putting up three female candidates in Port Louis Nord/Montagne-Longue (10.6% of candidates this year are female) Communalism is of course dead, as politicians tell us, but its still evident that Creole areas get Creole candidates, Muslim areas Muslim candidates and so on – that Alliance (Parti Travaillist, PMSD and MSM) will do anything to stay in power! Stanley/Rose Hill has 38,982 electors so its quite a small circumscription but if you add Curepipe’s 45,346, Beau-Bassin’s 42,656 and Phoenix’s 53,548 you’ll see we live in quite a compact part of the island. Don’t forget Rodrigues either – it has 10 candidates and will send its representatives to parliament. I’m not sure if anyone represented Agalega…

Spare a thought for the Finance Minister Rama Sithanen – he’s been dogged by controversies for quite a while now and he’s not even been chosen as a candidate by the MSM. He decries a conspiracy, but maybe he’s got the message that thanks to those IRS schemes Mauritius will soon have more shopping malls than houses… I read that a few other current ministers have not been selected either.

Interestingly another poll in the L’Express asked voters what their main concerns were – 22.4% replied law and order, the highest percentage in any category. 20.6% were most concerned at what the parties would do to fight poverty 17.3% were worried about unemployment, 15% education and 10.3% wanted to see something done about corruption. Even in my brief stay in paradise, eight months last Friday (!) I have realised that those latter 10.3% might have a very long wait to see their wishes granted.

ELECTION FEVER

2010-04-13T10:02:00.001+01:00

One of the joys of living in one of Africa’s most stable democracies is the excitement and buzz the island gives off in the run up to the elections. The 5th May is the date and almost as soon as it was announced the purple bunting of the MMM and the red white and blue of the ‘Rainbow Alliance’ appeared, adorning roundabouts, street lights etc. There’s a fair amount of cynicism about of course, certainly regarding how the alliances are formed, with former enemies doing deals with each other solely to stay in power rather than having alliances based on any common policies, but there is a noticeable nationwide belief that democracy is important. I like that and once again its something the rest of the world can learn from Mauritius. It easy to be down on this island but perhaps sometimes people overlook just what amazing qualities it has. Of course Gordon has announced May 6th will be the date of the election in the UK – I wonder what the turn out on May 6th will be? I suspect very low – but I hope for the opposite, 99% turnout voting for independent, honest, non-corrupt politicians who are from the community they represent rather than career politicians being parachuted into seats so they can jump on the gravy train. Hoon, Hewitt, Byers, Moran and all just show what a farce it has all become. How can be convince people politics is important when its clear to see politics has become an easy way to get your snout in the trough. Vote independent – party politics is rotten and dead. Money for legislation, mortgage-flipping, costly and pointless wars in Iraq and Afghanistan where national interests were not threatened etc… I would like to think people would listen to me, but they won’t. The turnout will be under 30% and things will continue as they were. People will miss their chance to show the corrupt pigs just how hated they are. People died to get the vote – at the very least turn up to the ballot box and spoil your paper. When the sitting MP sees 99% of their constituents spoilt their paper, they will get the message – or will they? They will arrogantly go on as before, claiming for duck houses and believing they have a mandate from the people…

We’ve reached the Easter break at Northfields and its nice to get two weeks off. I can lie in, spend some time with the kids (as its one of the holidays that actually overlaps with the Mauritian system) and Laura has this week off too. Lie-ins are lovely – the sun streams in through the window early and helps my serotonin levels rise whilst just a small movement of my head allows me to look at a stunning mountainous backdrop out of the bedroom window. Yes, Rose Hill might be quite a drive from Mapou but life here is good. I feel I deserve the break too. I’ve put in a great deal of work and I get the sense its paying off – history is certainly taking its rightful place at Northfields, although it still has a long way to go. It still isn’t seen as an important subject and I’m scratching my head as to why. To understand why Mauritius is like it is today, in fact to understand the island at all you need to understand your history. Maybe people here don’t want to understand? I once got back from a student a 200 word punishment which they had completed (well, about 100 words of it anyway) after not completing their homework. They hadn’t done their history homework because they are “going into business” and won’t need history. Even one of my IB Higher Level students still had the view that history only let you become a history teacher or work in a museum as she entered sixth form. She will remain nameless but needless to say her view (with a little persuasion from me) has changed.

How are you going to run a business if you are not literate, have no skills of analysis, cannot evaluate and have no understanding of why the world is like it is? How are you going to understand the world’s sensitivities – the shocking lack of knowledge I’ve found here by some of the ex-pats about Hinduism and Islam stands testament to that. I feel this is where this country has it slightly wrong – ok, it’s a developing nation and everyone wants to get their hands on a slice of the cash but just having studied business studies, commercial studies and ICT is not the way to success. The mentality is that if I have studied business then I will be the next Bill Gates or Carlos Slim - which to anyone with any world experience knows is simply not true. I am not knocking other subjects here, but I maintain you do not get such a concentrated mix of evaluation, analysis and literacy in any other subject. Add to that knowledge of how the world works, how it doesn’t work and why we are in the situation we are in today and you have so many issues. I am banging my head against a brick wall sometimes, through my reading and discussions with Laura I was aware of the challenge before I came – its an islandwide issue not just a Northfields one but its sad to see many people ignoring the importance of the past… Would it be cynical to suggest that the fact history means a lot of writing is the real reason students don’t choose it?

DROP KICK ME JESUS THROUGH THE GOALPOSTS OF LIFE...

2010-03-28T09:11:00.002+01:00

Another week over and I find myself in Sainte Croix twiddling my thumbs whilst Laura is engaged in her papier-mache work. As someone not very artistic, I am thoroughly impressed how a pile of old newspapers can become some of the things she produces. Hopefully she can start selling some of her stuff (anyone out there interested?) and she can get back to doing what she was doing before she came to the UK because when she’s not doing it, there’s a real sense of wasted talent there!

Rose Hill life continues to be rather pleasant and a bit more laid back than Port Louis – as we found out yesterday when we went into town (two minutes walk!) to buy a phone and some new school shoes – nothing gets going until 9.30am. Quite a contrast to PL! Rose Hill’s shops also close Thursday afternoons too. It’s a ‘Central Plateau thing’. The weather is that little bit cooler too and some days have recently seemed like English spring days, albeit being ‘winter’ here.

Life isn’t totally easy though. We’re still in a process of ‘stabilising’ and will continue to do so under our very own ‘three year plan.’ Its going to get a little tougher as well as yesterday’s papers told us that prices have increased and will continue to do so. The Central Statistics Office now says a family of four would need Rs 4,250 compared to Rs 3,576 just to survive for a month (some of our students bring that to school per day!) on milk, pasta, rice, pulses and flour and what the CSO calls ‘basics’. Milk has gone up 30 per cent in the last six months and basmati rice is next. Living costs have now touched 4,000 per month on average for electricity, water and gas so the CSO say. What the government is going to do about it was not as forthcoming.

Indeed, with the average income being not much more than the ‘required’ Rs8,250 one could consider it worrying times for the island. My view is that, like almost all societies since 1980s, is that the rich get richer and the poor stay where they are. After the baby boomer generation saw the gap close, as a world we are increasingly divided and that can lead to danger. Ironically, the price rise article was just above the piece about how you could have gone gizmo hunting at the ‘Orange Expo’ at Pailles last week – Iphones, 3D televisions and blackberries were all on display – yes, this certainly is a divided island. No wonder larceny figures are on the rise – although Mr Ramgoolam has promised more police to deal with this. A Belgian couple were the latest victims – their bungalow at Trou aux Biches was ransacked while they slept. This is not the kind of news the tourist industry wants us to know about, but the fact remains most visits to paradise are trouble free. Its just pretty scary if you are on the receiving end of it, or attempted receiving end of it like I was. Luckily, my would be assailant was scared off by a fat half-naked English guy running towards him and shouting his head off. Obviously I wish I hadn’t been there and it almost would have been good to see this guy go down for stealing the princely sum of er… approximately 350 rupees that I had in my wallet and some Form 4 History homework. This guy had not done his research, even though the use of a key shows it was clearly an inside job. Tourists are fair game of course. Although I am not a tourist. I am working here on a Mauritian wage. Serves you right for judging people by the colour of their skin.

Elsewhere, maybe someone influential has been reading my blog – thanks for all your comments and e-mails by the way, this blog is clearly being read - its been announced that a ‘dream bridge’ (the irony of the name is not lost on any of us here) is to be built spanning the harbour of Port Louis, running a length of 2.7km in total. PPP (Public Private Partnership), see Private Eyes passim for how this doesn’t work, will be used and of course a hefty toll will be charged – just like the new ring road. Whether or not this will happen who knows – maybe an early April Fool? We live in hope that one day it will take less than an hour to get through a city of less than 150,000 people…

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MAURITIUS!!

2010-03-17T04:33:00.000Z

Happy 42^nd Birthday Mauritius! Well, it’s a few days late, but there you go. Friday was Independence Day and a chance to remember all of what this country has achieved since the British departed way back in 1968. And there is quite a lot to contemplate when you think about it – not least getting the population up to 1.3m as was recently announced! This island has had many successes in a short space of time. Long may it continue…

Northfields’ celebrations were on the Thursday and after the flag-raising ceremony and the almost in tune sound of staff, students and parents singing the national anthem we moved onto the address from our esteemed leader Navin Ramgoolam, delivered by a man with one of the most amazing CV’s I’ve ever seen (and even then it was only Clive Barnes’ edited highlights of his CV)

Whilst the students performed exceptionally as usual – Skander and Cirine’s violin and piano number, Camille on the flute and Neha and Basanti’s poem that they wrote themselves, highlight of the day must have been Messrs Adam, Emile, Appadoo and François’ performance of ‘typik’ Mauritian music. Unbeatable! What was amazing was Yvon’s smile getting wider and wider as he really got into the swing of things… It was good to meet up with some of the parents too afterwards over food and a coke – I’m still off the beer and not sure when I will feel like partaking again! Some of the parents I spoke to knew me as the history teacher and the blogger. Hmmm… This will make me think twice what I write in future, but of course professionalism has prevented me from disclosing what gossip is going round the staff room. That would need a blog all of its own…

I’m settling in to the Rose Hill lifestyle quite nicely – its certainly a little cooler up here on the central plateau and the air is fresher than Port Louis. I have actually been able to sleep at night which has been a long time coming – thinking back to the still, humid night air of Port Louis makes me realise the extra hour or so’s commute is worth it. There doesn’t seem to be as many mosquitoes up here either – famous last words. If you’ve been following the blog you’ll know I have a soft spot for Port Louis, but Rose Hill, Quatre Bornes and Curepipe have more of a sense of planning to them and, dare I say it, a bit of a more upmarket feel. Yvon Zaza, the ledgend that is Laura’s dad, visited us when we first moved in and he said “it’s a good neighbourhood.” He certainly knows his onions about this island so I will take his word for it. The wait for our own place was worth it. Just thinking about some of the ‘houses’ we saw for rent makes me cringe…

Mr Childs and Mr Barnes combined to give us an extra day off on Monday too - a very welcome surprise and it meant I was able to take Jacob and Amélie to school, something I haven’t done since their first day of school back in January. They really seem to be settling well into Hampstead and from what I have seen I have been impressed. Jacob’s writing is coming along and his knowledge of French is developing. Amélie loves the nursery and I’m sure as she develops some confidence she will love it even more. The contrast between her at school (very quiet) and at home (very loud) is marked. I even got to pick them up too – oh, small pleasures. I’d been working all day on some stuff for a history textbook my dad is helping produce… It seems there is no rest for some. I have taken to believing this is all the hairshirt for previous sins. Ok, its not as if I am working for nothing, but free time, really free time is in short supply at the moment – oh yes, its called being a parent…

So as Tuesday was the public holiday for Ougadi (Telegu New Year) we decided to have some really free time and head off to the beach. Its been a worryingly long time since we did so too… kind of like when we used to live in London – we’d only visit the amazing museums etc when people visited. When it is on your doorstep you almost take it for granted! We headed to Flic en Flac, met Jennifer at the Baobab shop and then spent a good couple of hours on the beach. Obviously it was hot, and it was also packed with the usual haggle of tourists slowly roasting and turning pink and the Mauritians who much more sensibly sit in the shade of the trees. We did the latter, although I did have a paddle as the saltwater is very good for my troubled toe – yes, its still giving me problems about ten years after it started… Jacob and Amélie love swimming and when we ran out of Factor 50 it was difficult to get them out of the sea. We eventually managed it and began the long bus journey home – I love the buses here but could someone please, please speed them up? How can it take nearly 2 hours to go 20km (even if we did briefly stop for a KFC in Quatre Bornes on the ‘recommendation’ of www.islandcrisis.net ??) Answers on a postcard please. Tie break question – when is the Port Louis bypass finally going to be built? A cynic might ask how much longer can the politicians bury their head in the sand and not think there is a serious traffic issue in Port Louis but as you all know, I am not a cynical person at all.

AU REVOIR SAINTE CROIX!

2010-02-25T10:30:00.002Z

Half-term - and a much needed break, although I've been into school two days to sort things out and still haven't got all of what I wanted to get done done. Jacob and Amelie are at school and Laura is at work (the joys of me working to a British school calendar and them not!) so I've a bit of me time as well which is nice. Its getting slightly cooler but still has its moments, certainly down in Sainte Croix.
That said, we might be finally bidding a farewell to Pere Laval's former stomping ground - we've found a rather nice house in Rose Hill, 3 bedroomed, little bit of garden, verandah, modern and well-equipped and central to the shops and bus station. Its going to be a little bit cooler up there on the Central Plateau but of course the key thing is that it is going to be nice and quick for the kids to get to school and Laura to get to work. Ok, my bus journey will be a bit longer but I'm hoping that if I ask nicely I can get a lift with those lovely members of staff who live in Beau-Bassin!
Six months in Sainte Croix is a long time but looking at the place we've got, I'm glad we held on a bit and waited. I will miss Port Louis of course - I'm getting attached to it and know it well from all my wonders and browsing but there's more of the island to be discovered now. I will be passing through Port Louis every day anyway - until I get my car and sneak round the back of Long Mountain and cut through Creve Coeur... I am sure we will be frequently back at Sainte Croix anyway to see Laura's folks.
As you know, I am a huge fan of Mr Goldblatt's The Ball Is Round - I am still getting through it, but I really do insist that those of you into football and your social history go and read it - if only for the nostalgia that the British took railways and football all around the world, even to places like Argentina and Uruguay which of course we don't associate with the Empire. My other fave rave is Thomas Eriksen's Common Denominators, his 1998 work on how Mauritius has manged to build a nation more successfully than others. Its 207 pages of a great read and really shows just what Mauritius should be proud of - a democratic stability that other developing nations could only dream of. I will unashamedly quote from page 3 of Eriksen's tome where he talks of Port Louis being the only truly ethnically segregated town on the island.
"Starting from Cassis in the west and moving towards Roche-Bois in the east, several distinctively ethnic neighbourhoods can be identified in Port Louis. All the major ethnic categories of Mauritius except the Franco-Mauritians are represented in one or several distinct neighbourhoods. Rich Franco-Mauritians fled Port Louis for the cooler climate in the interior during a malaria epidemic in the 1880s. The western extreme of the capital is dominated by respectable working-class and lower-middle class Creoles in Bell Village, this area merges into an ethnically mixed area, which again merges into an upper-middle-class Hindu neighbourhood near the omninously named Champ de Mars where horse-racing is a weekly attraction for thousands of male Mauritians of all communities and classes... " Eriksen continues, mentioning Chinatown in the city centre, the Muslim neighbourhood of Plaine Verte and finally, after all the foreplay, telling us of the largely Creole quarter of Abercrombie... He cannot even bring himself to say the words "Sainte" and "Croix". Tut, tut Mr Eriksen. That "Sainte Croix Boy" is a friendly term of abuse from my wonderful Mauritian colleagues says much. I will miss it, but roll on Rose Hill...

A HOUSE, A HOUSE, MY KINGDOM FOR A HOUSE...

2010-02-05T12:12:00.008Z

What a last few days - its involved chasing burglars in Calodyne, exploding computers, thunder, lightning and intense heat. In case I didn't know just how its been, there's a helpful little icon on Microsoft's weather site which tells you how hot it is actually feeling, rather than how hot the thermometer is showing you it is. For most of the week its been saying 34 degrees, feels like 38. Lovely. Add to that the humidity and you will understand why I am drained. Even the Mauritians here are moaning about how hot it is! Its been a week full of thunder and lightning too and Wednesday night by all accounts, the storms were pretty nasty.
I have to say "by all accounts" because I slept through them. The kids were full of it in the classes - some moaned about lack of sleep because the power cuts meant their air conditioning wasn't working. Some of the more meaner kids were laughing at the less well off ones who "only have fans." Down in Sainte Croix we don't have anything, not even an open window else the mostiques eat us alive. The reason I slept through the storms is that last Tuesday night I had a rather nasty experience with a chap in a baseball cap just before midnight.
All started well. On Sunday we headed out to Dhorenne's at Calodyne for what we thought would be a relaxing couple of weeks at the seaside. For a while it was - although it was too hot even to make the short walk down to the beach. Jacob, Amelie and I tried but alas, we didn't get too far. The pool proved a most welcome relief from the heat and as usual the food was top notch. We were to stay in the annexe to give us a break from Sainte Croix and to keep Dhorenne company as Bruno is in Spain on business. Luckily, the kids wanted to sleep in the main bit of the house to be with their cousin Valentine. Laura joined them too, so as I say, luckily it was just me in the annexe when the voleurs turned up.
Around 11.30pm I heard noises that weren't the usual geckos, dogs or birds, and even in a semi-comatose state I realised something wasn't quite right. I even got up and turned the light on and looked out of the windows. Seeing nothing I went back to sleep, only later on realising the voleurs must have seen the lights on and still decided to break in knowing people were in there. About midnight I heard what I thought was the door handle going and this made me stir a little - and just as well. As I woke I found myself staring at a baseball-capped intruder who had just reached the top of the stairs. It could only have been a couple of seconds but the staring out seemed to last for hours. Adrenaline kicked in (somebody should bottle that stuff and sell it) and I shouted out as loud as I could "Hey! What are you doing? Get out, GET OUT!" and for some unknown reason I ran towards him (his mate was waiting outside it later turned out) and luckily for me the sight of a big fat white guy dressed only in a towel was enough to see him scram.
To say it was frightening was an understatement - although fear only took me over once the adreanline wore off. I was kind of proud of how I reacted, largely I think through anger - how dare someone come in - and secondly the realisation my wife and kids might be under threat. As I have said, luckily, oh so luckily, they were locked up safely in the other part of the house.
I didn't see much of the guys running away other than the soles of their trainers and the sound of feet barely touching the ground. Laura and Dhorenne came outside when they heard me screaming at the top of my voice. The police turned up very quickly by Mauritian standards but there wasn't much they could do - the voleurs had used a key and the police claimed they'd "already caught someone." Dhorenne's landlord was sympathetic - it was her fault because she left the door unlocked! This of course totally missed the point that they had actually broken in using a key which they had obviously procured from somewhere - a common trend unfortunately... Dhorenne's had enough anyway - this is the third time she's been broken into and its au revoir Calodyne. Its an uncomfortable truth that Calodyne, Pereybere, Grand Baie, Fliq en Flaq are big targets because of the tourists - our voleur saw the lights on in the annexe, thought Dhorenne had foreign visitors and that means passports, money, cameras, laptops... they were sadly disappointed. Talking to staff on the Wednesday I was apparently lucky - often tourists are tied up and even beaten...
The following Sunday, Curepipe proved a welcome relief, although true to form, it was very wet. Patrick and Jessica were wonderful hosts as usual and it was great to put the world to rights with Patrick as always seems to happen. We looked at a couple of houses down in Curepipe but as usual, not quite right. It would be a nice place to live in terms of temperature but then there's the time it takes to get to Mapou in the mornings - I tried it. I left Chez Patrick at 6am, got an express bus from the bus station in Curepipe, walked from Victoria Terminus to Immigration in Port Louis, hopped straight on a 22 and got to Mapou at 7.55. One hour fifty five minutes to go 30kms... how can it be?
My bad luck didn't stop there - on the night of the break-in my laptop stopped working and the next day at school I went to swtich on the computer in my office, only to be confronted with a very loud bang... It turns out a lizard had crawled into an orifice he shouldn't have. Valerie, one of the IT support team, found this out when she carried out the post mortem (on the PC, not the lizard). Life truly is swings and roundabouts...
Tomrrow we get a day off for Maha Shivrati. All week Hindu pilgrims have been making their way down to Grand Bassin, wearing all white and adorned with orange sashes and carrying (or pushing) their effigies of Lord Shiva to collect holy water from Grand Bassin. My good friend Rajiv, member of the support staff here and provider of bad tips for the Champ de Mars, has gone this year. Today on the way to work the bus passed many pilgrims on their way back north from Grand Bassin, many looking exhausted but of course refreshed. What a sight though - the progress of my no.71 to Poudre d'Or was slow as we edged around thousands of pilgrims, most with their effigies which in some cases looked like portable temples. Hundreds of feeding and rest stations had sprung up, all offering food and drink to the pilgrims and signs everywhere welcoming pilgrims and wishing people a pious Maha Shivrati. I'm told that tonight at midnight the Holy Water gathered from Grand Bassin will be central to the all night vigil in many temples as souls are cleansed all over the island. As I've said, its quite a sight and of course such is the plurality of the island that it combines with the Chinese Spring Festival - we're having Chinese New Year celebrations here at Northfields at 11.30...I will of course be wishing everyone well and making my New Year's wish - to find a house! Its getting me down a little but I am sure we will get a habitable hovel soon. Shiva willing.

BOTH SWORD AND SHIELD

2010-01-25T03:46:00.000Z

As you can probably deduce, I’ve been busy getting back into the swing of things and getting in to the routine. Needless to say the Mauritian teachers concluded the holiday was too short – for me, it was, and I can’t believe I am saying this, almost too long! Two weeks is all we get in the UK. The students continue to be delightful although I can’t work out if their somewhat lackadaisical approach to work is the heat, laziness or in the case of the Sixth Form the fact there is just so much to do at IB level. Teaching TOK continues to be tricky as I am not convinced even the IB organisation know what they want from it either. As a concept, I am fully behind it, but again, if History was compulsory from the age of 14 then students would be questioning their surroundings as a matter of course anyway.

Last Friday night saw Yvon arrive home with a moving quacking sack on his back. On further inspection, its contents turned out to be two white ducks brought at a reasonable price at Plaines Vertes. Honoured as I was to be asked to take part in their subsequent downfall, I left the killing and plucking to Ivon and the butchering to Gladys. The ducks eventually appeared on the dinner table on Sunday and turned out to be very tasty. If I could get used to the butchering I would – its best to know where your meat comes from.

Dhorene, Jessica, Patrick and Laura’s aunt Ivy joined us. Bruno is in Spain discussing the future of the Malaga Baobab shop with Pam. The cousins enjoyed fighting amongst themselves (surely ‘playing’? Ed)

After dinner I had a really good chat with Patrick on the veranda about his Mauritian experiences and life in general. We get on quite well because we tend to have the same outlook on life and Patrick was a teacher before entering politics and then working in Nigeria and Angola. The rain was teeming down at times and that’s been the case for the past few days. Its been nice for me because it means the temperature has cooled off for a bit – but it eventually stops and that’s when the humidity goes through the roof and the mosquitoes are on the warpath. As I’ve always said, it’s the humidity that is the trickiest thing to get used to. When its 32, 33 or 34 degrees with low humidity, the days are just wonderful. When you get that coupled with 95% humidity, it starts to get a bit sticky. Raj Heeralall, legendary Biology teacher at Northfields and my fellow cricket coach tells me the worst of the heat will be over…

Saturday has become Jacob’s swimming day. He’s started going to swimming lessons at the outdoor pool at Calebasses run by Northfields’ very own Yvon Emile of the PE and French departments at Northfields. In his swimming cap and goggles, Jacob looks quite the professional and already he’s started swimming underwater and clearly enjoying it. It generally follows our Saturday morning routine of going to Port Louis market for some fruit and veg, a Limon and a Dholl Puri and a PS2 game or two from our favourite shop!

Its almost so laid back here its easy to forget the outside world exists. Is this a state of mind brought on by the heat or the geographical isolation of being miles from anywhere here in the Indian Ocean? I had to giggle (not google) at China’s response to the USA over the whole freedom of the internet thing, “we firmly oppose such words and deeds which go against the facts.” I’m no fan of the USA, as I think those of you know me know but lets just say I think the USA have a got a point on this one. Ok, it’s a quote clearly aimed at the Chinese population, who will of course get an open and two-sided view of the debate, but its interesting to see that in the 21^st century hey still think they can get away with this kind of approach, denying any kind of censorship in China. No wonder they are so scared of the internet. The word ‘misinformation’ is definitely an issue for TOK – misinformation for some is clearly the truth they don’t want to hear and its even a reason to kill some people. Luckily history shows us these kinds of regimes don’t last for ever.

We do indeed live in interesting times. I keep telling the students this – we’ve got our new Cold War (which keeps plenty of people happy because as we know war makes people a lot of money) and the 21^st century will definitely be all about the battle of the two extremes – the nutcases of Al Qaeda versus the equally dangerous Christian extremists in the USA. This is the similarity with the Cold War - ideological battle. What makes this new global conflict different is that both believe religion proves they are right

Only in the USA could Sarah Palin be seen as some sort of role model. God, gas and guns. Commonsense conservatism indeed. “Let God in and he will take over” Palin, or rather her ghost writer, tell us. Or rather he’ll take over in the way you want him to. Its easy to say how religious you are. But can you apply it? A good Mauritian friend of mine crosses herself every time she goes past a Catholic church or shrine and yet is sleeping around behind her husband’s back. Organised religion is used to suit certain people which is an outrageous shame when we compare it to the real point of religion. Don’t even get me started on the recent child abuse scandal in Ireland…

What is clear is that the USA will have to admit their claim to world dominance is on the wane. For all its faults, Britain at least admitted as much after World War Two. China and India will overtake the USA as the world’s economic powerhouses in the next few years anyway and that makes things look rosier for Mauritius as the island has close ties to both. Its clear the Bush-Blair era will provide an interesting chapter in future history books. In a world that was clearly getting ‘safer’ they instigated two unnecessary wars (I won’t get involved in ridiculous conspiracy theories here suggesting that these wars were somehow deliberate ploys to get hands on oil, rebuilding contracts, install puppet leaders in these countries and show the world that just like a Texan cowboy, the good old USA can dish out justice old-style etc etc) I am firmly of the belief that these conflicts were to bring much needed democracy into a very unstable region (does sarcasm come across in blogs?) but instead Bush’s lasting legacy is a more dangerous, divided world, with more extremists around who are prepared to blow themselves up in the name of religion. Maybe this was the aim? Was it worth destabilising the whole Middle East to get your rich billionaire friends just a little bit richer? Oh I forgot, God told you to do it – the very excuse often used by paranoid schizophrenics after going on a shooting spree.

Its that famous USA insularity again. We’re meant to be thankful for their actions (see the spot-on opening to Team America: World Police) and if you’re not grateful you get labelled a “cheese-eating surrender monkey.” As if Iraq and Afghanistan were a direct threat. Look again at where the 9/11 bombers came from. And would Yemen, Pakistan, Iran be issues today if there had been no war in Iraq or Afghanistan? Back to Sarah Palin again who tells us, “we are both the world’s sword and shield” - quite. As US foreign policy over the last fifty years shows us its been a great success in that sphere! The leftist anti-USA revival in South America is testament to just how angry people are. Of course the CIA would have got rid of the likes of Chavez before but they can’t do that anymore. And they hate the fact that these countries might start to vote for who they want rather than have a USA-sponsored puppet leader imposed by a USA-instigated coup probably labelled something incredibly patronising like “Operation Restore Hope”, with the Americans famously not getting sarcasm. Thankfully times change. They are quite happy to point out how many deaths have been caused by dodgy left-wing dictatorships – and they are right – but how many innocents died in dodgy-right wing US-funded South American regimes – Chile, El Salvador, Argentina, Grenada… What about an “Operation Restore Liberty” in Burma? There is a real need for regime change if ever there was one.

Of course, Obama will go down in history as the man who just had too much mess (and racism) to deal with. He won’t, unfortunately, get re-elected because he tried to get millions of people (the fact this legislation would largely affect black and Hispanic people is of course not a factor) access to health care. How naïve! Doesn’t he know a lot of people make a lot of money out of people being ill. We can’t simply put people before profits can we…

Back on the island, its not a surprise to read that FIFA has cancelled the 3,200 hotel rooms it had booked in Mauritius for the duration of the World Cup. Apparently there aren’t going to be 3,200 people who want to holiday in paradise and then take the four hour plane flight each way to South Africa to watch the games. That came as a real surprise to me. Again a glitzy PR person charmed the Mauritian government into thinking the world cup could make 1.2 billion rupees. And we’re still told Italy, Australia, Cameroon etc are coming to train here. Where exactly? The media as we know love to exaggerate, even the BBC, which I will always defend solely because right-wingers hate the fact something can be publicly owned, seems more concerned about ‘out-exclusiving’ other channels than reporting proper news, but I’m almost prepared to believe the news I heard that the death toll averages at 50 people per day in South Africa. There’s a lot of racism in the media too – the subtext being South Africa would not be like this is the whites were still in control – and it remains to be seen how it will go. As usual, I imagine the reality created by the media hype (the number one enemy in the world today) will be worse than the actual reality.

I read that there’s been a lot of conjunctivitis around – Moka Eye Hospital has been inundated apparently and the heat has been blamed. Jacob and Amelie luckily don’t have conjunctivitis but they do have stinking colds, with Amelie’s nose running like a river. Of course, they’ve been at big school two weeks – long enough for all the kids to have passed all their germs to each other! Jacob gets to learn a third language and he’s chosen to learn Hindi – if all goes well in a few years he’ll be fluent in English, French, Creole and Hindi – that should give him plenty of opportunities around the world. I also read that osteoporosis is a big issue here – one woman in four and one man in eight suffer from bone problems – to me, it’s the obvious lack of calcium in the diet, with milk being the most notably absentee.

So well done if you’ve reached the end – reading back through this makes me realise I have written rather too much again but it’s a great way to spend a Sunday morning on the veranda with a glass of mango juice from the very tree I am sitting under. Its back to the grind tomorrow so there won’t be any more rants about extremism for a while, but its clearly a threat. By all means stand up for your values and I will defend your right to do that – but be careful. Hitler of course thought what he was doing was right. He used phrases like we are both sword and shield, and look what happened because of him.

A SPECIALIST IN EXTERNALISATION

2010-01-15T06:49:00.000Z

There was so much rain over the festive period that we’re led to believe that the reservoirs are full – in fact, the recent rains increased the level of water in the reservoirs by 50%. Midlands Dam and La Ferme are full and the other four have reached normal levels. The rains were the side effect of tropical cyclone David which passed to the south east of Diego Garcia. Cyclone Edzani is the next one to be coming close.

There are still problems with the water supply, with some coastal areas facing irregular water supply – the fault of holidaymakers say the Central Water Authority and of course not to do with the aging and creaking supply network at all. Indeed, at times when we’ve been housesitting for Bruno and Dhorenne in Caldodyne there’s been no water at all for periods of up to three or four hours. Water pressure is an issue too – people have been complaining that there is not enough pressure for the water to reach the solar water heaters on roofs! It’s a difficult one I suppose – the island needs the money from the tourists and the sugar (there is huge amounts of irrigation needed in the industry) but there is part of me that thinks why should the hotels and golf courses take all the water? Maybe I’m just bitter and twisted but, I’ve witnessed some obnoxious tourist behaviour in just the few months I’ve been here, these people seemingly thinking this island has been put there for their holidaying pleasure rather than it being the home for 1.2million people. A theme I have noticed amongst tourists is the way they look down on the local population - an Australian woman I witnessed ranting in McDonalds was shameful, pushing the rest of us in the queue out of the way, barging through the crowd shouting “fill this up” because her coke wasn’t quite to the brim without a please or thank you in sight. I’ve seen things like this a few times and frankly I feel embarrassed for these people who have a clear inability to interact with human beings on a normal level and who see everything in the world as a personal attack on them. I’ve had the dubious pleasure of working with a few people like that in my time and whilst I find them quite annoying, I would say I am more fascinated by them – what a view of the world they must have! I’m always cheered up by the thought that the locals probably have the last laugh though by charging the tourists double and watching the tourists turn a lovely shade of beetroot as they fry in the sun – its touched 34 degrees at times recently and the humidity has averaged 95%!

Elsewhere I’ve read that Mauritius has kept its place in top 25 of the AT Kearney Offshoring Index which apparently is good news and this means there are now 300 companies on the island specialising in ‘externalisation’ – by which they mean call centres, I assume. The bilingualism of the island being a key attribute in explaining why companies set up here. Last year fifty new companies were created along with 2000 jobs. This is all great news for the people with the jobs – but will Mauritius go the same way as the UK? Already there is a new logistics centre behind the Jambo hypermarket at Riche Terre. Call centres, logistics, ICT, finance… it could be the UK. Lets hope the island doesn’t lose its manufacturing base like the UK has, preferring the ‘service industries’

28 babies were born on New Year’s Day in Mauritius – the first of which was a baby girl born to Ouma Kallychurn at 00.20 at the Jeetoo Hospital in Port Louis, which incidentally is where Laura was born all those years ago…Ok, its only 30 years ago but hey, it’s a good wind up.

And now of course its back to school. The four weeks have been nice – I’ve ploughed through about 300 pages of David Goldblatt’s epic The Ball Is Round but still have 600 to go. It is a must read – and I will enthuse about it some more in a later blog. In all honesty, it will be good to get back into the swing of things again – particularly as we’re going to be studying the Spanish Civil War with my IB group, a period of history I am hugely interested in, starting of course with studying it myself at A-level… bring on Primo de Riveira!

LIES, DAMNED LIES AND STATISTICS

2010-01-11T06:18:00.000Z

Lack of internet access means I’ve not been able to blog for four weeks so you’re all probably relieved about that, but it does mean four weeks worth of holiday are going to have to be compressed into one entry. I’ve not been up to much so it shouldn’t take long. I started the holiday by er…going into school for the first three days of the holidays which was a good idea – I managed to get a lot of tidying up done and get quite a bit prepared for next term. This meant I could totally relax and focus on having some quality me time, whatever that may be. I’m not saying this to be snivelling and sycophantic but it’s a truism to say I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my first term and I hope to have many more…

As you’ve all being paying attention and hopefully learning lots (pay attention at the back etc etc) you should have realised by now that Ile Maurice is quite a small island. That said, it never amazes me how I have never seem to go to the south. In fact, in the four months I’ve been here I’ve been ‘darn sarf’ thrice – at one of those occasions was when we arrived at the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Airport in Plaisance, the others were trips to see Jessica, Patrick and Maeva in Curepipe and Curepipe doesn’t really count as the South, its more in the centre with the other main towns of Beau-Bassin, Rose Hill, Floreal and Vacoas.

Evidently my life is centred on Port Louis, the beaches of the north – Mon Choisy, Trou aux Biches, Dhroene’s house in Calodyne, the night-life centre of Grand Baie and of course Mapou. During the holiday, I decided to do something about this by taking a bus to Rose Hill and having a nose about. It was a little cooler as of course the bus had climbed up on the central plateau (Rose Hill is 300 metres above sea level) and there was an air of it being a little greener and more planned than Port Louis, and dare I say it “better off”? Indeed, its always had the reputation of being the town of choice for the middle-classes. Around 100,000 people live in Rose Hill, or to give it its full name Beau-Bassin/Rose-Hill - the two ‘villes soeurs’ were merged into one in 1896. There were plenty of people milling about, most of them trying to sell something. Commerce on this island is strong that is for sure. I helped myself to a dholl puri or two and a few other delights that make living on this island an absolute pleasure. I moved on to Quatre Bornes which seems to be where more of the middle-classes live and of course there were yet more shopping malls and traffic jams. It is 329 metres above sea level so my map tells me, and its image is the ‘up and coming town’ on the island, situated at the foot of the Montagne du Corps du Garde, where you live in the week and go to your beach house at the weekend. Like Rose Hill it’s a lot cooler (in more ways than one?) and greener than Port Louis and were it not so far away from Mapou (rush-hour traffic here needs to be seen to be believed and it can take 2 hours to go the 17km from Rose-Hill to Port Louis) I’d certainly like to live there. I passed the Chinese embassy too, hidden behind high iron fences and barbed wire. I popped my head into Vacoas and Floreal too, the latter being where most of the politicians and diplomats on the island live. Its also considered the most ‘English’ of all the towns in Mauritius – with a British army garrison being present there right up until independence in 1968.

Ironically, I got to ‘go south’ a few more times in the break as well as I’ve been doing deliveries for Baobab – with Dhorene, Bruno, Valentine and Kimmie in France (which looks rather cold from what we’ve been seeing on the news), I’ve had the van and have been lugging boxes of t-shirts, shorts and other merchandise to the Baobab shops and other licensed sellers all over the island. Maybe I’ve finally found my calling in life, although I have to report a small collision with a wall in Grand Baie (slight dent to the bumper) and the fact that whilst we were delivering boxes to a shop in Grand Baie someone stole our trolley. Two bits of news that will not go down well with Dhorene and Bruno on their return!

The News on Sunday continues to be a good read, filling in the bits I haven’t quite understood from trying to follow the news in French all week! At the moment there seems to be some sort of revenge going on against members of the prison service – Antish Bokhoree, a prison officer from Phoenix prison had his windows smashed and his bike vandalised. This comes hot on the heels of the assault of Satyadev Omrahoo, chief of Beau-Bassin Prison, who had his arm slashed by ‘assailants’ on his way to work. Word has it that prisoners are getting their own back for what they feel is harsh treatment in prison by getting contacts on the outside to beat up prison officers.

Elsewhere the number of tourists visiting Mauritius has increased slightly – although those coming from the UK have decreased (they don’t know what they are missing), the election of the new executive committee of the FCM (Federation des Creoles Mauriciens) has provoked unrest and allegations of fraud and 6000 Bangladeshi workers are to be sent home from Mauritius (not having their work permits renewed) as the textile industry has been hit by the recession, although this runs counter to an official government report that says “the private sector has faced little or mild impact” with the numbers of females in employment even increasing (probably because they now have to work?) The seafood, ICT and tourist industries have all reported growth. Who to trust? Lies, damned lies and statistics…

Apparently, Mauritius was praised in the Financial Times recently with high-praise coming from Lex, “Building a country from scratch you could do worse than copying Mauritius” so the article goes… We’re also told half of foreign investment in Mauritius is from India, that the island is “Copenhagen proof” as its highest point is over 800m, the island is one of only 32 countries considered a “full democracy” by the Economist Intelligence Unit and the World Bank (incidentally, I teach the son of the WB’s representative in Mauritius) rates Mauritius as the 17th best place in the world to do business (certainly if you are in the pirated DVDs and PS2 games business – the number of games in Jacob’s PS2 games collection is now touching three figures), the literacy rate is in the high nineties and it is rated as the second-least corrupt place in sub-Saharan Africa – althought the phrase “not as impressive as it sounds at first” comes to mind. I am sure it is not hard to be less corrupt than some countries in Africa.

For the second year running, Christmas Day was spent on the beach – last year was the mild climes of Malaga, spending time with Laura’s sister Pam who lives their with her Spanish husband Miguel, with this year being slightly hotter for our Christmas lunch picnic on the beach at Flic en Flaq on the west coast. It certainly was a new experience and made a nice change from the “meat and all the trimmings” standard fare from the UK, and as usual it was planned with meticulous Zaza precision – Yvon, Gladys, Laura, Jacob, Amélie and I arrived at the beach and within seconds seemingly hundreds of Tupperware boxes, plates, pieces of cutlery etc emerged from the bags we’d carried out from the van and transformed themselves into a mouth-watering beach picnic. Jacob and Amélie enjoyed a swim. Flic en Flac is a nice enough beach but not my favourite and in fact, I’d even go as far as to say I don’t really like it. It’s clearly a resort constructed solely for tourists and the beach is covered with hard little pine cone type things which make it not as nice to walk on as say Mon Choisy. In addition, swimming is made harder by the presence of quite a few rocks. We moved on after dinner to Le Morne – somewhere I have been wanting to go to for a long time – its at the very south west of the island and is Mauritius’ ‘other’ UNESCO heritage site, designated in 2008, as it’s the mountain escaped slaves used to run to and somehow climb. Many jumped off in their desperation to be free rather than be recaptured, something shown on the monument in the memorial gardens laid out below the mountain. There were some Chinese tourists taking photos of the monument so I had the pleasure of watching them while I waited my turn – I can’t help feel they had missed the point somewhat, laughing and smiling and all pointing at different parts of the monument rather than taking time to think about what it actually stood for – to me a poignant symbol of slaves’ fight for freedom, their suffering and their sacrifice, reminding us that the Mauritian creole population started their time in Mauritius as slaves from the African mainland and Madagascar and were here long before the indentured labourers arrived from India and China. The beach itself is in the shadow of the mountain and the sand is smooth and the sea less rocky than Flic en Flac. I certainly preferred Le Morne and Jacob and Amélie enjoyed yet another swim – both are getting quite good at it now and in Bruno and Dhorene’s pool are swimming well without armbands and even going underwater – good progress in four months.

This free time has allowed to me to start to plough through ‘A New History of Mauritius’ by John Addison and Kissoonsingh Hazareesingh, (latterly of Green College, Oxford) a 1999 edition of which I picked up outside Jambo from a cheap(ish) bookseller. Its published by Editions de L’Ocean Indien, based in Rose-Hill, who have a whole range of fascinating literature I am hoping to be the proud owner of one day. I’d consider the book a bargain at 100 rupees, but many others wouldn’t. Its not hugely up to date, ending after the chapter on the 1987 General Election, but its still enough for me to be getting my teeth into. It will build on what I learnt in the excellent ‘The Making of Modern Mauritius’. I’m determined to become an expert and if I answer the questions at the end of each chapter I might just get there – Hazareesingh proudly boasts that his book is designed to help those taking the History of Mauritius paper for the ‘new’ Cambridge O-level!

I finally got my letter of residency on the 23rd December. I am now allowed to reside here as the spouse of a Mauritian citizen until further notice! If all is going well in four years then I can apply for dual citizenship, something I would most definitely take up if all continues as well as it has done so far – but there’s a big difference between four months and four years and as ever I wait to find out what is hiding around the corner…

I will end by saying I hope you all had a wonderful festive period and I hope that 2010 will bring you all you need and want.

STILL, ITS ONLY ONCE A YEAR...

2009-12-15T10:24:00.001Z

Just two days into my nice four week break so I suppose its time for another blog entry. Thanks for all of your comments and kind words – as I keep saying, this really started as therapy but its great to know all over the world people are reading and almost finding it interesting… I’ll see what I can do over the break, but I won’t have regular access to the internet. Four weeks is a long time – but the first two days have been spent in school trying to get everything out of the way so I can enjoy my time properly.

There’s been quite a bit of rain about which Martin Webb says isn’t usual – and he’s been here eight years. He is of course the ledgend of the languages department and after his leaving speech on Friday there was a rather long standing ovation for a great man who has given so much to Northfields. He was the first member of staff when the school started in a hut over by where IPS is today and in the short time I have known him he has looked after me very well (see blogs passim). We shall miss him, although he’ll be around in Mauritius for a bit longer – we’re even planning to walk up to the top of La Pouce at some stage…

The Christmas Party was a rather pleasant affair – after the Martin’s leaving assembly we headed up to Grand Baie and were looked after very nicely at Le Capitane. The location was stunning, offering a view out over the bay and that lovely turquoise water that you always seem to get at Grand Baie as the sun shimmers across it. The food was top notch – plenty of seafood which suited me down to the ground. The beer and wine kept flowing and Mr Barnes’ witty comments as each of us received our Secret Santa presents added more merriment. I seem to believe I got away relatively easily. The night was still young so we headed to Mon Choisy beach for more drinking, Frisbee throwing and soft American Football throwing. Then, I did something very silly – I got in a car with Thierry Adam once again. The next thing I knew it was 2am and I was in big trouble. I was in big trouble in another way on Saturday – scarcely being able to leave my bed and drinking lots of coca cola… Still, its only once a year…

I’ve noticed on the buses recently that there are signs saying how many people are allowed to stand and how many are allowed to sit. Rumour has it the proportion is 64:5 although I am not sure many of the controlleurs know this. I’ve frequently seen nearly 64 people standing… Maybe the guy got his figures the wrong way round, or maybe it’s the island’s, shall we say, relaxed attitudes to certain laws.

I suppose I should give you a round up of the news – thanks to my new two favourite publications, The Independent Daily and the News on Sunday, two excellent English language newspapers. Firstly two winners will have to share 11 million rupees this week – that must be a big problem, I mean I wouldn’t personally accept just 5.5 million rupees – that’s ‘only’ 112,000 pounds. Japan, Australia and Italy are going to train in Mauritius before the World Cup and the whole island is obsessed with whether or not Tiger Woods had 10 mistresses or 11. One interesting story was that of Rajendree Mooroogeea who has withdrawn a complaint against her ‘concubine’ Hercule Louis, 23. Rajendree says she has lost count of the times Louis has beaten her. Last Sunday he ignored a protection order and turned up at her house to beat her up again – Louis was arrested but in an amazing u-turn Rajendree withdrew the complaint saying “Louis and her six month old son are all she has. I don’t want him to go to jail.” Domestic violence is certainly something that needs dealing with here – efforts are being made but it seems worryingly common. Nice as it is to be chatted up all the time here (it never happened in England) I just seem to be a magnet for late 20 something girls who have young children who have left their partner because he both wouldn’t take his parental responsibilities properly and had been violent to her. There seems to be many single mums here who have had to leave their partner.

I came across the words of our fantastic Deputy Head Gerry Young in this year’s yearbook which we all received in the last week of term. I know he won’t mind but I thought I would share them as I thought he’d managed to sum up life in Mauritius for a newbie like me. I unashamedly repeat them here: “Gas in bottles that always seems to run out when it is my turn for the shower, suncream, wacky races every morning on the way to school, cyclone warnings… yes, there’s lots to get to grips with. But stack these up against turquoise waters beyond belief, white sandy beaches that stretch for miles, skies that are far bigger and bluer than any I have seen before, stars so bright they cast shadows, mammalian and reptilian housemates that I used to go to the zoo to look at, market and street scenes where the colours, sounds and scents overload the senses, sunsets I will never forget, and people who genuinely want to know how and who you are and whose kindness is often humbling, and it becomes quickly evident that the delights vastly outweigh the odd little frustrations.” 15^thDecember. Four months since I left the UK and for a newbie like me, those words really hit the right note. Long may this continue.

KAS SO LAGEL

2009-12-08T03:49:00.000Z

Everyday is like Sunday moaned Morrissey – if only. Its one of my favourite songs and I think it sums up perfectly what its like to be in a fading seaside resort like Margate in the off season when its freezing cold and everything is shut, the paint is peeling and the signs for the amusement arcades are faded and Armageddon seems like the kindest thing that could happen to the place. Sundays here are rather different and we’ve been lucky enough to spend the weekend in the peace and quiet of Calodyne at Dhorene’s – where of course there is a pool too!

I don’t have anything against Margate by the way – we spent some good times there in the YHA which had a reasonably sized family room overlooking the beach that we stayed in a few times. I remember Laura saying the beach at Ramsgate was like the ones in Mauritius, which rather surprised me, but it is a very nice beach. I also fondly remember Dover Castle, Broadstairs, the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway… Life is rather different now however and Sundays involve a rather more relaxed pace of life – a coffee, a pain au chocolat and a drive to a beach – in this case Grand Baie where yours truly looked after Jacob and Amelie while Laura and Dhorene went shopping. Grand Baie is the place to go if you’re a tourist – and needless to say the tour operators, the glass-bottomed boat owners, the diving schools, paragliding, water-skiing and fashion shops were doing a brisk trade. It’s a lovely setting though – the sea is the clearest blue I’ve ever seen and the beach is white sand. Its also the place for night life – Mauritius doesn’t do night life on a grand scale – most places are shut up and in bed by 10pm at the latest but Grand Baie has no end of clubs, bars and also, I’m told, rather more ‘interesting’ clubs too… It was a lovely 32 degrees today, with a small amount of breeze coming in off the sea and the humidity was refreshingly low. I sat and read the English language News on Sunday under the shade of a rather large mango tree, scratching my head at the jokes page – with its up-to-date gags about Princess Diana, clearly copied straight from the internet. One of the ‘jokes’ was Where was Dodi buried? Answer – who gives a f**k… Strange indeed. Their anti-Bush jokes were a bit more up-to-date but still I’ve read funnier.

In the taxi from Calodyne to Grand Baie we went past the iconic church at Cap Malheureux, Notre Dame, which adorns many a postcard. It was overflowing for mass, with people spilling out on to the road. What a setting for a Mass – if Nana and Grandad ever make it over here, they would certainly enjoy a service there. Close to the church is the burial ground – again, a very nice setting in which to spend eternity – it overlooks the sea and Coin de Mire – the island behind which the British hid before finally taking control of the island after Ducaen’s surrender (or capitulation depending on your side!) Jacob uttered the immortal comment “Look! Jesuses” as he saw all the crosses lined up in the cemetery – glad to see his religious education is coming along nicely. At least in Mauritius he will be able to identify (at the last count) thirteen different types of place of worship, including a Seventh Day Adventist church in Sainte Croix.

Frankie Dettori was in the country yesterday – it was International Day at the Champ de Mars and despite the hype, he was not hugely successful not winning a single race. I didn’t go as Laura dragged me Christmas shopping but that was actually quite fun as there aren’t the chains and high street names here so you really have to search and you never know what bargains you will get – cheap imported toys from China aside. You could of course go to Jambo, Super U, Shoprite and cheat, or Caudan or Les Halles in Phoenix if you have a bit more cash, but rummaging through the stores in Chinatown was quite an experience. We got most of what we wanted which was a relief, although the heat didn’t help once we were loaded down with bags. One of the best things about Port Louis is the sheer number of roadside places there are to eat and drink – we had a kebab in a baguette, a sort of mousse/jelly fruit drink, a fresh lemon and lime sugary drink at another place and finally a milky drink which seemed to be half a tin of coffee creamer from Singapore, some sugar and a topping of condensed milk. Very nice, very sweet – but all these drink seemed to leave me thirsty. The fact remains you can’t beat bottled water, although the 10 rupee ‘limon’ from Port Louis Central Market runs it a close second. I always seem to have a dodgy tummy after drinking it, but its actually worth it. Accompanying the world’s best dish of course – a dholl puri!
On our return to Sainte Croix it was a taxi to Calodyne so we missed the chance to see Shaggy (of Oh Carolina! fame, yes, him) who was headlining the all-night Creole Festival at Les Salines. The Gran Konser started at 6pm and was due to finish at 6am and Mario Ramsamy was also playing. It’s the end of the week long Creole Festival, celebrating Creole culture and reminding the Hindus and the Muslims, the British and the French, that the Creoles were here first… How much they’ve contributed to the island’s development is up for debate. The Hindus claim they made modern Mauritius but without the sweat of the Creole slaves, would there have been a Mauritius at all? Laura blames the Creoles’ love of having fun and partying for their lack of action, I am keener to believe there has been discrimination of sorts, although nothing like Apartheid. Mauritius is a success story – as no less a person that Kevin Rudd, the Australian PM was keen to point out to our magnificent leader Navin Ramgoolam at the recent Commonwealth Heads summit. Navin was also lucky enough to meet Gordon Brown.

Indeed, the Commonwealth Heads summit in Trinidad dominated the news, but other snippets of interest include the suicide of two policemen within quick succession. Constable Manoj Jooganah, 46, shot himself, and apparently his wife Preetee Venkamah Jooganah had no idea why he did it, her quote being “Manoj used to be depressed and he would come home telling us he would kill himself but I cannot guess why he would end his life in such a manner.” Er… because he was depressed? The article also mentions Jooganah had problems with alcoholism and couldn’t adapt to his new timetable after his recent transfer from Rose Hill nick. How many more reasons does his wife need? The other copper, Swaley Mandharry also shot himself.
Elsewhere I read that cases of larceny are on the decline – only 894 this year, as opposed to 1,432 last year. Cases of police brutality were only 223 this year and Yatin Varma, an MP here, caused uproar by telling the Education Minister Vasant Bunwaree, live in parliament that he would ‘kas so lagel’ – literally smash his gob! Politics here is certainly interesting. On top of all that the trade deficit is lower this year than last and the EU has donated 2.4 billion Euros to Mauritius. Its all looking good – apparently, but as that quote is from the government should we trust it? Indeed – why do they need loans at all? The World Bank has just allocated two loans of $50m to Mauritius on top of the EU money. We should be rolling in it here?!!? One person who is rolling in it is Joseph Guillyano Zamir, the 36 year old lottery winner. He’s had to go into hiding – citing he’s had enough of banks and insurance companies contacting him trying to persuade him to invest with them. It seems financial institutions are the same the world over…

NOTHING IS TRUE

2009-12-07T03:54:00.000Z

The bus journey to work is always very pleasant but Fridays seem to be even more pleasant, for the obvious reason. We’ve had a week of wet starts so I’ve rarely seen the sea when I’m on the road from Pamplemousses to Plaines de Papayes but the sugar cane fields look so lush after a sprinkling of rain, and because so much as been cut of late there is that lovely sweet sugary smell in the air. You can now see the motorway from both my classroom and the school field. Today I took the wonderfully named ‘Germany Express’ complete with radio blasting out so that us lucky passengers could hear that the Australian soccer team are going to use Mauritius as a pre-World Cup training base, that there was an earthquake close to Rodrigues which measured 5.2 on the Richter Scale but luckily didn’t cause anything vaguely resembling a tsunami - my French is obviously getting better, although I still have to check L’Express website when I get to work to see if I’ve translated it correctly, or better still Islandcrisis.net, the closest Mauritius has to my beloved Private Eye – which arrived safe and sound on Thursday.

Talking of Rodrigues, it’s a place I’d really like to go to. Andrew, Jean-Paul’s son, often goes as his mum’s family come from there I’m told. Its 600km to the north east, and is where you see an even slower pace of life to Mauritius – traditions have been held on to a lot longer there and these concerns are often raised in parliament (nightly highlights on MBC1 every evening). Mauritius also lays claim to the tiny islands of Agalega and Tromelin and the weather forecast includes a special Agalega bit every night, even though I didn’t think anyone lives there. Don’t mention the Chagos islands though – Mauritius claims them but of course they are officially the British Indian Ocean Territory – where to Britain’s shame the islanders were removed so the Americans could build Diego Garcia air base there. The Chagosians still live in poverty in Port Louis although they did receive some compensation. For a small island – 61km at its longest point, 46km wide at its widest, Mauritius has a huge sea territory – 1.2 million square kilometers. That’s how isolated we are here!!

Rodrigues is one of the Mascarenes of course, named after Pedro de Mascarenhas, the Portuguese explorer who was the first European to put these islands on the map. The Arabs labeled Mauritius Dina Harobi but there is no evidence they stopped here. As even my Form I’s know, we can only base what we know on evidence. Maybe I stress the importance of questioning evidence too much – on Wednesday my Theory of Knowledge group for IB were tying themselves up in knots claiming now that nothing can ever be true. If that is the case, I told them, then the statement “nothing can ever be true” is not true. I think we’re going a bit too deep…

Also on the radio are the death announcements. You get solemn music and then the guy reads out the deaths from yesterday – I suppose this started in a time when literacy was still very low and people didn’t have mobile phones. Very few houses have landlines even today and radio would have been the only way to get your message across – and many of the older generations wouldn’t be able to read about it in a newspaper. Funerals happen quite quickly too because of the various beliefs on the island so it’s a need to know basis I suppose. It reminds of my mum telling me you used to get SOS announcements on Radio 4. Nowadays you could get video footage of it around the world in seconds if you so wished…

My legs are almost back to normal after last Sunday’s ‘football’ match against Creve Coeur, organized by the wonderful Mr Martin Webb esq. We won 3-2 but it wasn’t referred hugely well – the law about two footed challenges hasn’t reached Mauritius it seems and any time any of us got the ball, a slide tackle came in from behind, the side, the front, frequently not getting the ball with the referee allowing play to continue. It made the victory all the more sweeter, but playing at 4pm was not a good idea. The heat and humidity drained me and a can of Red Bull before the game, at half-time and after the game made not a drop of difference. The ledgendary Yvon Emmanuel Zaza was watching and joined us at Martin’s for a few drinks after the match, catching the second half of the Liverpool vs Everton game before heading off to a local restaurant for some home-cooked grub, ably washed down with local rum and of course, Phoenix. All in all a good day, and thanks to Martin for arranging it and giving Yvon and me a lift home – Monday was a difficult day to teach, lets put it that way…

On the Saturday I’d had to have some medical tests as part of my medical insurance so as the place opened at 6.45am I hopped in the Baobab taxi and arrived to have a blood test, glucose tolerance test etc. I was expecting Lucozade but the drink I was given was the most horribly sweetest thing I have ever tasted – and I have a sweet tooth, Orangina being my big vice. Luckily it turns out I am ok with glucose tolerance but diabetes is a big, big problem on the island. Philippa Desvaux, the school nurse, told me per head of population its one of the worst in the world, thanks to a mixture of diet and genetics.

The first big lottery winner has announced – a guy from Riche Terre, one of the poorer parts of the world around here, so fair play to him. He’s the first person to get all six numbers correct and therefore won about 20 million rupees – about £400,000, an amount which will go a long way in Riche Terre. Its a place I go through on my walk to Jambo, and its not the most well-to-do suburb, mostly creole and containing many houses that can only be described as shacks. That’s not to say there aren’t some nice houses there, and of course then you get to Jambo – a huge hypermarket complete with Pizza Hut, KFC, a very nice curry take away place, Kiddyland (kid’s rides) and everyone’s favourite buy-your-furniture on credit place Courts. Its definitely a case of where the new Mauritius meets the old, and I’m not sure I like all of what the ‘new’ has to offer, certainly if it leads down the road the UK took.

BOMBS OVER GLADSTONE STREET

2009-11-27T09:46:00.000Z

Friday again – so it must be blog time – its amazing how quickly a week goes by. Today is pay day so it’s a double delight. I’m sure the Rupees will soon be spent – I have a busy weekend coming up. Saturday morning will see me at the Medical Laboratory having a glucose tolerance test which involves four blood tests and I need to undertake as part of my medical insurance deal – I suppose they will increase my premium if they find I am allergic to Lucozade. I’m hoping it won’t zap too much of my strength as a combined Northfields Staff/Mapou XI are playing Montagne Longue FC on Sunday – game to kick off at 4pm with drinks and food afterwards provided by our wonderful host and referee Mr Martin Webb. I’ve been walking a lot, doing the odd practice or two with the kids and staff and climbing more mountains with the ledgendary Yvon Emmanuel Zaza so hopefully I’ll be in shape – people keep telling me I’m losing weight and I sure feel like I am – sweating, sweating and more sweating. Remind me too I must get a lottery ticket tomorrow. It started three weeks ago and top prize is 20 million rupees this week. They may as well give me the money now. We’ve not been lucky but Dhorene won 100 Rs – enough to buy five more goes on the next week’s affair.

Its been quite a wet week – refreshing for me, but the locals have been moaning its cold. In fact I had to close the window on the no.22 this morning as even I was feeling the cold – that has never happened before. Needless to say by now (1pm as I type) its got to be rather hot and sticky again. My walk from the bus stop is not currently shaded by sugar cane either as its been cut down. Its growing back quickly and is ankle high already… I really do enjoy my morning bus journey into work I’ve realized and one of the best parts is coming out of Pamplemousses, past the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam gardens and on towards Plaine de Papayes. Here you can see the sea for the first time on my journey and it’s a lovely view to my left. Today I couldn’t even see the sea, for the second time this week, as it was covered in cloud. Looking back towards Port Louis you can normally see the amazing mountainous background – again, not today. Clouds everywhere – but of course, now its time for me to oversee the form 3 boys’ rugby its baking! Luckily I’m learning – I have two spare t-shirts in my bag.

Interesting thing in the news today – apart from a bomb being found in Gladstone Street in Bedford which made it on to the BBC website - Middlesex University is to open a campus in Vacoas. Its offering mainly business subjects but its interesting to note that universities are now coming here rather than Mauritians having to travel miles to them. There is a good university here, but Middlesex is offering “quality British education at a quarter of the price.” Quite.

DAY AT THE RACES

2009-11-23T11:19:00.000Z

The blogs seem to be becoming few and far between and there’s two possible reasons for this – I’m either now so immersed in Mauritian life that I find nothing of note anymore, or I’m getting lazy, affected by the rising temperature and humidity. I’m afraid it’s the latter, although I’m dealing with the humidity better than I thought I would – remembering to wear a vest, take a spare shirt in case etc. One step at a time though – December and January are looming and if Mauritians are telling me it is too hot during those two months, I know I just don’t stand a chance.

Unsurprisingly, in this glorious exalted reign of Capitalism, as it’s the 22nd of November the Christmas decorations have been up in Jambo for a couple of weeks now. Piles and piles of toys have arrived from China, a bewildering assortment, and some look like they might actually survive being used until February. I still can’t get my English head around the fact its nearly Christmas and its erm… really hot and getting hotter. I’m looking forward to my second Christmas Day on the beach in succession – after me and Jacob’s paddle and stroll in Malaga last year.

Saturday was a very good day indeed. Mauritius advertises itself as a paradise island and more than most of the time I agree. Yesterday, however, was beyond paradise – the ledgend that is Martin Webb arranged to hire a box at the Champ de Mars as his swan song. He’s leaving Northfields in December and as one of the founder members of the school, its more with more than a tinge of sadness. We’ve become quite good mates since September and I’m pleased to hear he will be returning here, all being well.

The racing is the biggest sporting event on the island – despite their obsession for football, football matches are not hugely well attended. There is a real buzz around Port Louis on a racing Saturday and thousands turn up each week from April to December filling the grandstand (150 rupees entrance, free for ladies) or the middle of the course which is considerably cheaper. We however, had a box. Two packed bus rides took me from Sainte Croix to ‘the Course’ as its called – incidentally, the oldest racecourse in the Southern Hemisphere. The British started using the patch of ground as a parade ground. Races started to take place and then gradually a racecourse developed. The Mauritius Turf Club was formed in 1812 and ever since then racing has been part of the Mauritian culture. I’m not sure there’s a better setting for racing in the world – although I can’t really comment as I’ve only ever been to one racecourse – the Champ de Mars. The backdrop of the mountains, the atmosphere, the knowledge of the horses and jockeys by the locals… all adds up to an amazing day.

On another note, next year sees the 200th anniversary of the British taking control of the island when the last French Governor, Ducaen, realised the game was up. In a typically sporting British way, the Brits said you can keep the language, customs and everything else – just stop using Ile Maurice (as it had become under the French, and they still call it so) to attack our shipping from the Cape of Good Hope to India (where incidentally the French had lost control of Pondicherry and other areas too but we don’t want to mention that… let alone cheating to get to the World Cup…)

The buses that got me there – Laura and the kids went down to Curepipe to see Jessica – were buzzing with anticipation, tips and everyone disagreeing over who was going to win. Tips never seem to come off – although there are claims that many of the races are fixed. There are even offspring of jockeys at Northfields and their tips never seem to come off – I have a theory they are deliberately telling me the wrong ones so the odds stay high on the guaranteed winner. I don’t bet but Yvon does and my ‘tips’ have cost him dearly over the last few weeks. Hopefully he is learning that its not a good way to waste money. That said, a collective bet by the teachers paid off in the eighth, and last, race of the day.

Having to wear a shirt, tie and jacket on a packed Port Louis bus isn’t ideal, but I arrived in decent shape, just missing the first race because of the traffic. I opened the door to paradise – a great view, great company, good food and a fridge full of Phoenix. Rajiv, one of the support staff at Northfields, was there and straight away served me a Phoenix. I knew from then it was going to be a good day. Eight races later we were all slightly sozzled – various people had had varying success. We won a collective bet on the last race and that was good enough for me. I hadn’t bet on anything else all day, preferring just to soak up the atmosphere (and the booze of course) Long after the racing finished and darkness descended Martin, I and two other teachers Thierry Adam and Simon Fitch, were talking away and with Rajiv’s help we polished off a bottle of whiskey and gin too…

Much to Laura’s chagrin it did not end there – Thierry took me to the Mauritius Tennis Club, slap bang in the middle of the racetrack. Its members only but Thierry is a well connected man and gave me a tour, explaining it used to be a cricket club too. The alcohol made me say what a great idea it would be to restart it and I would be prepared to try and get a team going – it certainly would be a challenge as despite the Indian influence on the island, cricket is played by a handful of players. Trying to get games organised with other schools, clubs etc at Northfields is tricky to say the least. I like the idea of Creole Cricket Club – CCC, finally shaking off the shackles of the colonial past by defeating a visiting English team in a rather fine setting. After the tennis club I don’t remember much. It involved Thierry driving me places and me getting home at half past midnight – crazy or what? It didn’t make me too popular with Laura, but it won’t happen again that’s for sure – but what an experience.

Sunday was spent up at Caldoyne at Dhorene, Valentine and Bruno’s – Jessica, Patrick, Maeva, Jennifer, Kimmie, Loic, Gladys, Yvon, me, Laura, Jacob and Amélie all made quite a houseful but there was plenty of Phoenix to drink (is there a theme developing here?), lovely food and a dip in the pool to follow. It’s a million miles away from Port Louis – ok, not literally, but its quiet, isolated and with a lovely fresh breeze blowing in from the north coast. None of the noise, bustle and humidity of my new favourite city.

Elsewhere, the sugar cane harvest is in full swing – its harvested twice a year I’m told and whilst machines are in evidence, I’ve watched from my classroom as much of it has been harvested by hand. Not a job I would like in that heat. Playing football on Friday afternoons with the students for 40 minutes is enough to make me lose a few pounds in sweat (yes, I know I need to) – let alone hacking away at sugar cane all day. There is an amazing sweet syrupy smell in the air when a load has just been cut and then a Bedford lorry (old enough to have been actually built in Bedford I am sure) takes it all away, piled higher than any health and safety legislation should allow.

Today I was reacquainted with my old friend the Delhi Express. I hadn’t seen it for a while – assuming, somewhat naively that it was being repaired. Yes, these buses do sometimes get repaired – in fact on Sunday, before Calodyne, Yvon and I walked to Jambo and saw not only some freshly repainted buses but ones with the registration ending in 09, meaning they were registered this year! Incredible but true. I hope its not spreading though. I kind of like travelling to work on buses that arrived in Mauritius (after being surplus to requirements in India of course) whilst I was still doing my A-levels. Anyway, Delhi Express turned up at 6.35am this morning – still with a motorbike shaped hole in the front, so my belief that it was somewhere being fixed all this time proved to be misguided.

We also had a night of torrential rain last week – the very very edge of Cyclone Anja which was at one stage heading to Rodrigues but luckily didn’t make landfall. I was oblivious to this until later on in the day when I saw it on the news, but I had definitely noticed quite a breeze in the morning – wonderfully refreshing as my walk through the sugar cane to work from the bus stop is normally a very warm one. A reminder that the cyclone season isn’t far off – hopefully, despite the morbid fascination with wanting to sample one, I won’t have to do so for a while yet.

OU GAGNE SOH?

2009-11-09T04:36:00.001Z

Ou gagne soh? Who is hot indeed…? Certainly me - as it really starting to get warm – and humid too, with the forecast predicting Port Louis could see 95% humidity! Last night was a real sweat-inducer, with the only consolation being that I might finally achieve my much needed weight loss. I’m told by those who regularly drive from Curepipe to Port Louis that there is a 10 degree Fahrenheit increase between Curepipe, up on the Central Plateau, and Port Louis (or Port Napeleon as it once was of course). I still can’t work that one out but there you go.

So despite starting with a Creole phrase, I still haven’t got to grips with the language, at best picking up a few phrases from the Zaza family’s conversations. I haven’t actually got much further with my French either – teaching in English all day means my French has probably got worse, although I’ve picked up a lot of football-related terms from all the footie we have over here. Paul Le Guen seems to be one of the best pundits for learning from, when he’s not coaching Cameroon, he can heard on Canal Plus. One interesting language-related thing in the news is that a United Nations team has proclaimed that students not being allowed to do exams in, or even speak in some institutions, Creole, is against the Universal Declaration of Human Rights as students are being denied education in their native tongue. There are constant arguments over whether or not to allow Creole into classrooms, even teach it, and with education reforms currently being introduced, we await developments. Laura was telling me a story told to her by another Baobab employee whose daughter was told at nursery that she should stop speaking Creole as it was as bad as swearing…

One of the interesting thing about the Creole language is the merging of the article and the noun – for example to ask for bread you say “aine dipin s’il vous plait,” literally translated as “one some bread please”. It’s the same with beer and water too – I’ve often enjoyed asking for one some beer. Of course, just to confuse people, the rule doesn’t apply to all nouns – e.g. vair (glass) is aine vair. The sound sayz can mean chair and sixteen and the day sound can mean two or a thimble so you have to be careful! Sorry is not desole but sorie although I’ve heard just as many Creole speakers say pardon. Its facts like this that perhaps explain why the island seems to get along – everyone has seemingly contributed something. Having finished Paul et Virginie (the descriptions of Mauritius are wonderful and its interesting to note that some things described by Bernadin de St.Pierre in the 1780s are still like it today, but I’m with Camus on the rest of it – especially the last twenty or so pages) I’ve started Dr Thomas Hylland Eriksen’s book ‘Common Denominators’. Dr Eriksen, Professor of Anthropology at the University of Oslo no less, puts together a 190-page discourse on how and why the island of Mauritius is a success in terms of social identity and political culture. Other countries could look and learn – on the island there are fifteen officially recognised languages, large numbers of followers from four major world religions and of course many ethnic groups – and yet since independence in 1968, this country has been a politically stable democracy. More as I plough through it – but one quote stuck me: “In this country one walks on fire, one drinks fire and one eats fire” – by this Dr Eriksen means you can walk on fire during Tamil ritual firewalking, you can drink Rum (some of the local concoctions are like fire) and you eat spicy food (if Laura is feeling particularly sadistic, I notice a few more green chillies than usual appear in the curry) – all parts of Mauritian life coming from different cultures which have contributed much to the island. Blame history – that’s what I say, particularly those history teachers. Always trying to show us why the past is important…

Talking of history, it must be time for another history lesson – but I’ll save you that boredom until I’m researching new worksheets. Incidentally, I was asked to give another talk in assembly on Friday on Guy Fawkes – and it seemed to go down well, Clive Barnes uttering the words, “That’s why we need history teachers.” I really enjoy researching and even though everyone thinks they know the Guy Fawkes story inside-out I was determined to find a new angle and interestingly enough a Mauritius connection came up during my research – Guy Fawkes, originally born a Protestant in York of course, converted to Catholicism and went to fight in the Spanish Netherlands for a Catholic army. The forces he was up against were led by Maurice of Nassau, the stadtholder at the time – and of course, the very man Mauritius is named after. Robert Catesby, the plot’s mastermind, attended Worcester College in Oxford too, although of course at that time it was in its Gloucester Hall days.

I think we all know climate change may well be upon us – and we had a rather pessimistic TOK lesson with the Lower Sixth (year 12s) on how its all too late and we can’t do anything about it and we’re doomed, despite my attempts to gee them up as the generation that could do something about the problem. Indeed, the first few days of November were actually quite cold and brought us much rain – no less a man than the ledgend (sic) that is Yvon Emmanuel Zaza, 60 years an inhabitant of this island, commented on this situation being unusual and saying that last weekend in Calodyne he was actually cold on the veranda. Maybe something is afoot – although since his comment the weather has got noticeably hotter. It seems the great Norfolkian Martin Webb was right – he told me in the staff room once that Guy Fawkes Night is the turning point – after that, its hot, hot, hot (in the words of Arrow) Friday saw me going to work in a t-shirt and changing into shirt and tie when there. Its not quite three shirts a day yet, but I am sure that will come. Thank goodness for the air conditioning in the staff room and the breeze generated by the corridors by my office. If I keep the window closed in my office it gets very very stuffy indeed.

Saturday saw ‘Mr and Mrs Northfields’ – the annual talent show at Northfields, followed by a barbeque and fireworks. Amelie has bronchitis, although she’s clearly on the mend thankfully, but early in the week gave us some difficult nights. As a result she wouldn’t leave Laura’s side so the plan of Amelie staying with Auntie Jennifer went by the wayside. In the end, Jacob, Kimmie and I went – and the students really threw themselves into the contest, giving some great singing, dancing and modelling performances. The Boerewurst to follow was top notch, as were the fireworks – we were treated to a rather good display and although the bonfire didn’t quite happen, the feelgood buzz was once again apparent in Northfields – something I’ve really picked up on since September.

Something rather surreal happened midweek – I received an e-mail from Meena in the office asking me to call back a man who had left a message wanting to speak to me. Dutifully, I called back and it turned out to be a very good friend of my Great Aunt Joyce! He lives near her in Whitstable back in the UK and over the years has become a good friend – indeed his wife met Joyce at keep-fit, something I am assured Joyce still goes to – at the ripe old age of 86. Her husband, Great Uncle Dan is 89 I am told – add to this, albeit on the different side of the family, my Great Nan will be 100 on 9^th December – God knows how many people will be at the party. I still remember speaking to her on the phone whilst I was at my Nan’s once and my Great Nan asked me how Jacob was. I was taken aback by thinking how many relations she just had to remember – with Jacob just being one of her great-great grandchildren! Anyway, it was nice to chat to Joyce’s friend who comes back to Mauritius twice a year to help out at projects for handicapped children. Joyce once said to my mum “If everyone in the world was Mauritian, it would be a better place.” I tend to agree.

So how to round off what has been a good week? Well, a trip to Butte A L’Herbe public beach near Calodyne to see Sarah Murton and her offspring would be a good answer – they have a rather splendid weekend bungalow on the beach in which can only be described as a perfect setting – shaded by trees, overlooking the sun-glazed sea and with a view of Coin de Mire thrown in to boot. We had a good catch up, a couple of Phoenixs and some choccy cake whilst the kids played and all too soon the taxi arrived to take us back to the madness of Port Louis. A brief period of perfection always makes a weekend - and Man Utd losing even topped that off!

NOTHING EVER LASTS FOREVER

2009-10-31T14:29:00.000Z

Another week at school completed – ‘just’ six weeks until the Christmas break, although I’m not actually counting down the days. I am really enjoying the teaching and life at Northfields in general. Long may it all continue, as I keep saying. Nothing lasts for ever, as many people including such different entities as Echo and the Bunnymen and Prince Siddharta, latterly known as the Buddha have said, and its always good to have plans B, C and D, but so far so good. Our furniture collection is growing, ready for us to rent an unfurnished house at a cheaper rate (hopefully) and I feel well and truly part of Mauritian life. Despite the 85% humidity and how busy it is, I’m still loving Port Louis and in particular Saturdays, featuring a bus ride to Caudan, a walk around the harbour, a couple of rides for Jacob in Kiddyland, a quick hello to Laura working in the Baobab shop, a freshly squeezed lemon juice from the market and a 50 rupee PS2 game or two before home. As the ledgend (sic) that Tony Barclay would say, “Can’t do better than that!” Simple pleasures, simple pleasures… There is of course the Champ de Mars, the racecourse and home of the Mauritius Turf Club which was founded in 1812, making the Champ de Mars the oldest racecourse in the southern hemisphere. Even though colleagues are married to jockeys and Northfields students are the offspring of jockeys, the tips I have been given so far have spectacularly failed to yield any possibility of early retirement.

It keeps amazing me who is reading my blog – it turns out a colleague and friend of mine Jean-Loup (John-Wolf no less, although I have taken to calling him Pele after a particularly gifted piece of skill against the Ecole du Nord staff when we thrashed them 5-0) is reading the blog. I was encouraged by his positive comments to me during Friday’s morning break. I’ve also been put on the Mauritian blogs homepage, a page run by Kurt Avish from islandcrisis.net. I’m being seemingly sycophantic here, but islandcrisis is well worth a read – his latest expose on the conspiracy theory that KFCs here were closed down at precisely the same time Nando’s announced they were to open a restaurant here was a good read and shows that even with Mauritius’ democratic stability, of which the island is rightly proud, there have been enough issues in the past to get people thinking there is no smoke without fire… (see the long running Mauritius Commercial Bank fraud case)

I had a shock on the bus on Thursday. I was reading the fares table on the No.22 as usual – yes, I was that bored. I usually listen to downloaded Radio 4 programmes on my Ipod on the way to work with the News Quiz being a particular favourite, although Stephen Fry’s latest series on the development of the English language was quite interesting. Anyway, I suddenly realised that according to the table, the maximum fare was 21 rupees – and that was for the full hour long journey from Port Louis Immigration Square Bus Station to Grand Gaube on the north east coast. To my horror I realised that I pay 24 rupees daily for half that ride, from Sainte Croix to Labourdonnais Roundabout. I was just about to kick up a fuss – 3 rupees per day for seven weeks is erm… quite a lot. 105 rupees to be precise, which is £1! Then I noticed that these fare tables were last updated in 2004. The timetable had last been updated in 2002…

I addressed assembly for the first time on Friday, determined not to be nervous and only getting a little bit of a sweat on, giving a speech on the topic of Monday’s public holiday which is the commemoration of the arrival on the island of the first indentured labourers. It went down well, and whilst I had no qualms doing it when Mr Barnes asked me to do it, it did take me a couple of hours research. I enjoyed the research though – ever since knowing Laura I’ve been reading up on Mauritian history but its only really since being here I’ve been able to read Mauritian history by Mauritian historians and the more I find out, the more I am fascinated. This really is a unique island.

You may know indentured labourers more as their derogatory nickname ‘coolies’ and basically they were part of Britain’s ‘great experiment’ from 1835 onwards. Slavery in the British colonies was made illegal in 1833 and it took two years for the law to reach over here. Faced with a loss of workforce as slaves were now free and sugar plantations had no-one to work on them, the British came up with the idea of recruiting labour from China and India, often on long-term contracts and on very little pay. In fact, male workers received 5 rupees per month, female workers 4. As these workers were being paid and had consented to the work, they were not technically slaves. However, treatment was little better than slavery with punishments just as harsh and food and clothing rations equally meagre. Roughly 430,000 labourers arrived between 1835 and 1910, when the scheme was stopped. The workers mainly came from India but also from China too which explains the mix of cultures here – add these to the European settlers and the slaves from Africa, first brought from Madagascar by the Dutch in the 1660s.

No less a man than Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, father of the nation and key figure in the push for independence from Britain, was the son of an indentured labourer and it was the indentured labourers who gradually got their freedom and were largely responsible for building Mauritius as we now it today – the Mauritius Labour Party, a key player in pushing for independence, free education for all and universal suffrage, that put Mauritius way ahead of other decolonised states, was formed in 1936 by former indentured labourers. There is part of me that thinks the Creole population needs more recognition – I am biased of course, being married to one – and it seems to me the Hindus are convinced only they made Mauritius possible. This may be true in terms of recent history, but the black slaves toiled hard, took many beatings and managed to maintain some form of self-respect for centuries before indentured labourers arrived. That is, of course, not to take anything away from Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, whose son, incidentally is Prime Minster at the moment, Navin Ramgoolam. I wonder how that happened?

Jacob and I spent some time this morning going round the Ghat in Port Louis where the indentured labourers arrived - it has been made a World Heritage Site. Mauritius has two such sites – the other being La Morne in the south west of the island, where many escaped slaves fled to.

So the second half of Arsenal vs Tottenham is on, Bolton vs Chelsea is to follow and Man Utd vs Blackburn is later. I best get back to watching it. Arsenal scored two goals in a minute and hopefully they will be more. As you all know I am a neutral when it comes to Premiership football but when Arsenal are on song, there’s no better footballing side. I still find it hard to believe that being this far from home allows me to see more live Premiership football than at home. Food for thought.

Its Martin Webb’s Halloween and Engagement party (two horrors in one?) tonight up at Creve Coeur. I am sure I will have plenty to write about on our return.

INSOMNIA CURE?

2009-10-23T06:58:00.002+01:00

To start off with – the good news! What good news you ask? What could be better than the latest Private Eye and World Soccer arriving from the UK on the same day? Well, incredibly, Nandos are to open a branch in Mauritius! They must have read my e-mail. Not long before we left the UK, I somewhat jokingly e-mailed to ask them if they had any plans to open any branches in Mauritius. After all, they are a South African chain and in the grand scheme of things, its not that far away. So imagine my surprise when I opened my copy of L’Express today to read that Nandos are planning to open a branch in Curepipe. This is Mauritius of course – so I fully expect to eat my first Nandos in around 2014, but I’m getting excited. You can already get the peri-peri sauce – Super U and Jambo both sell it. Now we just await the bottomless cokes…

I’ve been working on more worksheets for my Form I class, so be prepared for a history lesson today – and why not start at the beginning? People joke that there is no history in Mauritius, but I beg to differ. This island has been visited and colonised by Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, French and the British and it has a population that bears witness to the fact slaves first came from Africa with indentured labourers arriving later from India and China. Most people here speak at least three languages – often speaking to each other in Creole, reading a newspaper in French and conducting official business in English. Indeed, Yvon, my father-in-law has found it useful having a native English speaker around as all letters from banks, insurance companies, lawyers are in English, a language he is not fluent in, even having been schooled in 1950s Mauritius when the island was still a British colony. I had to lend a hand helping Yvon sort out his pension contributions. Furthermore, all state school exams are in English. Jean-Loup (great name, John-Wolf), the new Design Tech teacher at Northfields who went through the government system here in Mauritius, told me even the instructions for the French exams are in English, something I find a little strange seeing as most of the population speak Creole and French - a history lesson in itself because when the British took control of the island, they allowed the population to keep French language and customs. It clearly shows that the main concern of the British was - to control Mauritius so no-one else could use it as a base on the important trade routes to India. Back to the school side of things, exams have finished this week and the kids are not far off their summer break. I, however, have seven weeks until my Christmas break. Work that one out! I work right up to the 11th December – no right to moan, I know, as I get four weeks holiday for Christmas, but it does mean by that time of year it’s a case of taking two or three shirts to work each day as humidity is touching 90%. In state schools, the big talking point at the moment is whether or not to allow Creole to be spoken and examined in schools. About time if you ask me!

As far as I am aware, there aren’t huge numbers of Dutch speakers still remaining here. Afrikaans, yes, but Dutch, maybe not. The Dutch period of rule in Mauritius was certainly an interesting era. Their legacy is a mixed one – the sugar cane which brought Mauritius so much prosperity in later years was first planted by them after being brought over from their colonies in Batavia (Java). It thrived, largely because it was one of the few crops they planted that could just about withstand a cyclone and grow again quite quickly when damaged. They also brought over deer from Java – which they are to be thanked for as cerf frais (fresh deer) is now widely available in season and is good quality meat. On the down side they killed all those helpless cute dodos. There is one that survives – but it is looking rather dishevelled now – in the Natural History Museum in Port Louis – incidentally opposite the KFC, the first one to be closed down, which led to the others being closed. Good news (or bad news) is that they have been allowed to reopen. L’Express and I think Le Matinal too had a free sheet given away with them this morning which had the slogan “KFC – we’re back” on it. Are we supposed to stick these up in our windows? Maybe an alternative to lighting up your house for Divali… which was last weekend and was quite a sight.

As for the dodo, well archaeologists found some bones a few years back prompting Jurassic Park type hysteria with some people claiming that dodos could be recreated using DNA. I kinda like that idea but I don’t want Richard Attenborough and Jeff Goldblum coming to Mauritius, although they probably have at some stage. Latest celeb spot was Jennifer Ellison getting married here, although I didn’t see her. I had to get that news off the Daily Mail website. Here, the cult of celebrity is not as big – unless you are a premiership footballer.

So the Dutch killed the dodos – for your information, the last recording sighting of a dodo was under the Governorship of Isaac Lamotius. Oh yes, him. They also introduced, knowingly or unknowingly rats (who did more damage to the early attempts to cultivate the island than cyclones), other pests, competing species and they cut down huge areas of forest to harvest ebony for the European market. Mauritian historians (of which there are many I am pleased to say) don’t say too many nice things about the Dutch in what I’ve read, with the main complaint being they didn’t do much to develop the island. As most Mauritian historians tend to be Hindu, a group who firmly (and correctly) believe they did much to develop this island, I am not surprised they say this.

Unsurprisingly there is much debate over the first historical evidence of the existence of the island – Wikipedia says it was on a map produced by an Italian cartographer, Alberto Cantino in 1502 so that must be true. However, I am not a journalist (see Private Eye for hilarious articles on lazy journalists who copy straight out of Wikipedia without cross-referencing) so I have cross-referenced. Cantino’s map apparently shows three islands which are thought to represent Rodrigues, Reunion and Mauritius. The islands are called Dina Margabin, Dina Morare and Dina Harobi. As you may be aware, Dina Harobi means Silver Island in Arabic and the Arabs were probably the first people to observe the island on their way to trade in Africa. Dina Harobi is mentioned in Arab histories as early as 975AD. The Arabs never settled on the island and it was the Portuguese who first made landfall on the island. In 1505, a Portuguese navigator called Domingos Fernanadez landed and named the island Ilha do Cerne (Island of the Swan, possibly a reference to the Dodo) The Portuguese used the island as nothing more than a reserve of fresh food for the ships heading to India. Fernandez left some livestock on the island to replenish passing ships, but didn’t claim the island for Portugal. In 1513 another Portuguese sailor, Captain Pedro de Mascarenhas arrived and named the islands (including Seychelles) the Mascarenes, which of course is still used today. Again, the islands were not claimed for Portugal probably because they were not seen as important and Portugal already controlled Mozambique and the Comoros Islands, Goa in western India, parts of what is now Sri Lanka and some parts of Malaysia.
The first attempt to settle Mauritius came with the Dutch. In 1598, a Dutch Admiral, Wybrant van Warwijck (there is something about Dutch names), landed on the island to avoid a storm. He claimed the island for the Netherlands and renamed it Mauritius – after Prince Maurits (Maurice to you and me, hence the French calling the island Ile Maurice!) of Nassau. Between 1598 and 1616, Mauritius was used largely as a refreshing station by the Dutch on their way to the Malay Peninsula and Batavia and they only occasionally used the island. Indeed, frequent shipwrecks on the west coast made the sailors even more apprehensive about stopping in Mauritius.
Tellingly, it was only when other nations started showing interest in the island especially because of the ebony that the Dutch decided to settle the island permanently. The British started using the island as a port of call on their way to India and the French were also present in the Indian Ocean in Madagascar. Therefore, under threat from other nations, the Dutch decided to settle permanently, in 1638. Interestingly, ten years earlier, in 1628, an Englishman, Sir Thomas Herbert had visited and even wrote a book on the island which brought it to the attention of the English government – but they were too late, the Dutch got there first! I am sure the English wouldn’t have killed the dodos. With their ridiculous idea of fair-play, they would have thought it just wasn’t cricket to shoot a flightless bird.

Another milestone is 1639, when the first slaves were ‘imported’ from Madagascar - 105 slaves arrived but within the first week, about sixty slaves were able to run away into the forests; only about twenty of them were eventually recaptured. 95 more slaves followed in 1644 and 108 more arrived in 1645. Many of these escaped slaves tried to make life hard for the Dutch and frequently attacked their crops and burnt down settlers’ houses – which I feel kind of serves them right. There were several attempts to develop agriculture – in particular sugar cane and tobacco - but because of a combination of rats, bad harvests and cyclones they all failed.
As the seventeenth century wore on, the cutting of ebony trees was developed for the European market and a new attempt to introduce agriculture on a bigger scale was made, but cyclones and rats once again proved too difficult to overcome. In 1658 the Dutch decided to abandon the colony altogether. Between 1658 and 1664 Mauritius was uninhabited, except for several shipwrecked victims and some escaped slaves.

In 1663 the Dutch tried again and in 1673, the wonderfully named Hubert Hugo became Governor, again developing farming, but this wasn’t successful (do we detect a theme here?) In 1695, a cyclone devastated the island, and many settlers lost all their crops and many left the island. In 1703, the last Dutch governor was appointed - Adriaan Momber van der Velde, was his rather rememberable name, but in what seems like par for the course in Dutch Mauritius his reign was affected by many disasters and many of the settlers died prompting the Dutch decision to abandon the island entirely in 1710. The next incumbents were the French, but that will have to wait for another history lesson. That is if indeed you have stayed awake. Well done if you have – you can have a housepoint.

A FRENCH SURRENDER

2009-10-23T06:56:00.001+01:00

Finally got round to making a start on Paul & Virginie, Bernadin de Saint-Pierre’s romantic novel about the ‘star-crossed lovers’ which is entrenched in Mauritian folklore. It’s a must-read and I did get as far as getting a second-hand copy off Amazon a couple of years ago. Sadly, it got left to gather dust as two kids and the usual piles and piles of paperwork that the UK education system generates took over. Dhorene and Bruno gave me a copy for my birthday and with a bit of time on my hands I dipped in to it. It’s a literary work that put Mauritius on the map and as early as 1789 there was an English translation, closely followed by Spanish, German, Greek, Italian and Russian. Not everyone likes it – Albert Camus called it “un ouvrage vraiment affligeant” (a truly pathetic work!) – but so far I like it. Reading it in Mauritius I suppose adds to the deal and I hope before long to be able to understand just why there are so many Paul et Virginie statues, restaurants, roads and hotels on the island.

Laura’s working at the Baobab store in Caudan at the moment. Caudan really is a nice part of Port Louis. Well, as you know, in my rather warped opinion, all of Port Louis is nice, but Caudan is a real success story. Formerly a rather neglected part of the port, it is now a major shopping complex, casino, cinema and waterside cafes and restaurants. It caters for the more up-market end of the Mauritian economy – plenty of expensive fashion and jewellery shops, air-conditioning, a craft market for the tourists and plenty of watering holes for tourists to be right royally ripped off in – like we were way back in 2005 – but its all housed in modern buildings that aren’t too out of place and fit in nicely with the nautical theme. Even the casino is in the shape of a ship. Curiously there is a Pizza Hut there too, but it seems to be viewed as an upmarket place to dine – I remember the one we went to in Bangalore in 1999 where only Bangalore’s high society were to be seen. For those of you who can’t live without a pint, there’s the Keg & Marlin English Pub. It does a decent pint – but beware of the Guiness – its brewed here under licence by Phoenix breweries and its rather strong, certainly not like the Guiness in the UK in terms of consistency and appearance.

Whilst waiting for Laura to hand over to the afternoon shift, I’ve had plenty of time and explore and I must say I like it – although I am not buying anything so I am not being bankrupted as there is the potential to do so! Today, alongside the usual container ships being loaded and unloaded, and the huge Mauritian coastguard boat ‘Vigilant’ there was an Indian navy vessel anchored. Alongside the shipping, there is plenty of Laura’s handiwork on display from her time before she came to the UK – a huge dodo sculpture in the craft market and her metalwork in the ‘Millennium Lovers’ fountain which is in between two of the shopping areas and a large papier-mache gecko adorning the now sadly closing down ‘Gecko Kids’ clothes shop. I really hope she can get back into her art – her talent really deserves to get the opportunity to show. Unfortunately it didn’t really get the opportunities in the UK.

My one vice is of course the book-store. I was pleased to see it was still there in Caudan as in 2005 I’d brought a very useful book on how to speak Mauritian creole. I still haven’t mastered it but I sometimes work out what Laura and her family say to each other. It isn’t really a language that is written down and is a real history lesson in itself. It developed largely from the need for the slaves from Madagascar and other parts of Africa to communicate with their French plantation owners – so some words are very similar to French – e.g. bonzour is bonjour but Ki Manyiere? is how are you?
I also got a fascinating book on the Mauritian national dance, the Séga, which also has its roots in slavery. Today’s purchases were The Making of Mauritius by Moonindra Nath Varma and the National Monuments of Port Louis (volume 1) which are going to help me no end with teaching Mauritian history and also in feeding my hunger for more knowledge about this incredible island. Already I have found out that the bridge I cross every time I get a bus into Port Louis or take Lucy for a walk up the mountain goes over what I thought was some sort of stream – it turns out it that it wasn’t originally a stream but one of many ‘retranchements’ built by the French to keep out the British – of course, they didn’t have too much success. In 1810, the British finally took control and the first British governor, Robert Farquhar, was able to decree that people should drive (their horse and carts of course) on the left hand side of the road. It hadn’t been that easy – British forces were beaten in their first attempt to take control of Ile de France at the Battle of Grand Port in 1810, but a second invasion later in the year proved more successful, sandwiching the French troops in Port Louis and bringing about a surrender (a French surrender? Surely some mistake?) by the French governor Ducaen. The rest, they say, is history…

TUMMY TROUBLE

2009-10-23T06:55:00.002+01:00

Its half-term (and how nice that is) so I have no excuses for not blogging. I seem to have neglected writing for a while but mid-term reports, Founders Day and a couple of other things got in the way, not least of which was my first bout of tummy trouble over here. Several visits to the school nurse on the last day of half-term just about got me through but I was still diagnosed with a fever, which luckily subsided and was also sweated out with a mountain walk (see later on!)

Founders Day was quite an event – certainly as three founding members of staff are still here from way back in 2002 and one of them is leaving in December, so it was quite a eulogy. I’ve certainly been made to feel part of the team very quickly and positive comments are filtering back. Its always good to here because teaching is a job you put so much of yourself into (if you’re doing it right) and its nice to know its paying off. Some may argue that I am teaching only a privileged few and it doesn’t matter what grades they get because they will be alright anyway. There may be small elements of truth in that, but we are getting growing numbers of Mauritians here and with the growing number of bursaries we are providing definitely makes me think I am doing the right thing in equipping the future of this island – and without being too melodramatic, it needs a good future. Its an island at the crossroads – sugar is not bringing in the huge profits it used to, the reservoirs are worryingly empty, tourist numbers are down etc. But, if you think of how far this island has come, the spirit of the people simply has to carry the island forward. The Maurice – ile durable project is coming on line and there is a growing realisation problems have to be faced. Its not as if Mauritius is alone in this anyway. L’Express, being the most independent of the newspapers, likes to criticise and recently I’ve read that there are 22 000 heroin addicts in Mauritius, we’re all facing a drought and of 50 000 roadside food vendors checked in the first half of 2009, 806 contravened health and safety – and that is Mauritian health and safety so God only knows what these places were doing!

One of the problems I am facing is that its starting to get very hot indeed – summer is on the way. I can just about walk into Port Louis without too much of a sweat on if I stick to the shade. I know most of you reading will say it will do me good to lose a few pounds and on Saturday I did more than that. I got cocky and suggested that we do an ‘off-track mountain’ walk with the legendary Yvon Emmanuel Zaza, my father-in-law. After all, he is sixty and I would surely be able to keep up. Off we walked, round the back of Sainte Croix, on to Vallee des Pretres and up. On the tracks I was ok. Once we started having to actually climb over rocks, under branches and walk up very narrow ledges, my knees, calves and ankles began to feel it. Lack of shade meant that by the time I was at the top I sweat was running off me like a river. Luckily I had a white t-shirt on but I have never been so pleased to see a can of Red Bull in my life, which was waiting for me, there with my name on it as we finally found a route down from the mountain (even Yvon who knows this part of the world inside out appeared lost at one stage and I did have a fleeting panic that we might be stuck up on the mountain for ever) The shopkeeper, in the small but picturesque village of Carolyne, probably thought ‘bloody foreigner’ as I stood in his shop and downed three cans of Red Bull. The bus ride back to Sainte Croix took us even further down into the valley so when we looked across at where we’d been – we’d had a brief rest under an electricity pylon so we could see exactly where we’d been – it was impressively high, not far from the summit.

We did have a brief culture clash on top of the mountain – which possibly isn’t the best place to do it. Yvon saw a hare and tried to kill it by throwing rocks at it. I of course was having none of that, even though I appeared like a patronising westerner, almost questioning Yvon’s way of life. I got out of the situation by asking him how he was going to get a dead hare back home on the bus and pointing out there wasn’t really enough meat on it for the six of us.

Thanks to Courts (minus those annoying Bruce Forsyth adverts we used to get) we’ve started getting the furniture together for the house. Renting unfurnished is considerably cheaper so that’s the plan. We will then have enough to furnish a house when (when indeed) we buy. That is a long way off and of course just a plan at the moment as we don’t know how long this Mauritius adventure will last. By the way those of you thinking of visiting can pencil in July 2010 onwards. All you need is an air fare or two – we’ll put you up.

With it being half-term I am going into Port Louis daily to meet Laura after work. I don’t know if I am thinking straight, but I absolutely love it. Its like a hotter, slightly crazier London. You can buy anything you want, life is as close to 100mph as it gets on this island and there is so much to see and do. The traffic is crazy but the buzz around Immigration Square bus station, the market and Caudan is certainly impressive. The market is something you just have to see – fresh produce piled high in the vegetable market, the aubergines and tomatoes look like they’ve been polished, fresh mango, pineapple and coconut, refreshing lemonade, aloudas and dholl puri in the food court, piles of fresh fish and meat and of course 50 rupee Playstation 2 games. I am not sure whether or not they are original but hey I am playing Fifa 10 for one pound and the shop I got it from has a certificate from the Mauritian government so its ok. I’m also working on a couple of worksheets for the Form I’s who will be studying Mauritian history the next half-term. The more I learn, the more I am fascinated. Aside from the fact that Mauritius is one of the few places on earth where human beings were not an indigenous species, I find it incredible to think the Dutch originally took control of this island largely to stop the French and the British doing so. The Portuguese didn’t even bother. When Domingo Fernandez called in on Ilha do Cerne in 1507 and Pedro de Mascarenhas in 1513 (hence Mauritius, Rodrigues, Reunion and Seychelles are still called the Mascerenes collectively) they saw the islands as little more than places to use as refreshing stations for passing ships. Besides, the Portuguese already had Mozambique, the Comoros Islands, Goa and parts of Sri Lanka, not to mention Malaysia.

Its not a cliché to say the mix of people, languages and cultures and how people seemingly get along could be a lesson for us all. Not bad for a country that only really came together because of mass movements of very different peoples under completely disparate circumstances, from Africa, China and the Indian sub-continent, to feed the seemingly insatiable demand for sugar from people in Europe.

PROBLEMS LAYING CABLE

2009-10-04T18:27:00.001+01:00

I’m surprised it didn’t happen earlier to be honest but Friday saw the first time of me being asked if I had a spare rupee or two change by someone on the bus. Immediately a couple of other passengers as well as the ticket collector told my interrogator to sit down and he did. One passenger muttered something about Mauritius not being like that really, but I didn’t have the French or the energy to say, no probs mate, I got asked for money at least twice every time I used to pop out to get some milk in Castle Road. I wonder what they would make of some parts of London?

It was definitely a reminder that this is a very divided country, although no-where near as poor as some. There are some very well off people and some who barely make ends meet. It is a picture I suppose globally. The figure for children living in the UK in poverty is always in the millions too, despite decades of political promises and measures. What is the answer? Is there one? I feel a political rant coming on but its too hot and I’ve got half an eye on the Chelsea-Liverpool game.

I am always the only white person on the bus and most people on the 6.45am No.22 know me. They know I am a teacher as a) I am wearing a tie and b) I get off at the bus stop that serves three schools. Thirdly, they know I am not rolling in it because I am travelling on the bus in the first place. Therefore I am pretty much left alone, indeed, Mauritius is the same as the rest of the world in that most people just want to get on with their lives. 24 rupees (50p) gets me the 20kms from Sainte Croix to Labourdonnais and sometimes I can get a lift with other teachers heading in the Port Louis direction on the way back. If I’m dropped at Terre Rouge its only 8 rupees and indeed the other day it was very cheap as the controlleur didn’t even bother collecting our money. It looked like it was his last day as he really couldn’t care less who got on and off the bus and when. Either that or he had just been sacked. I’m very lucky too. I was envisaging the journey to work taking hours and me needing to take three buses and the like – but the 22 and 71 leave from 100 yards from Chez Zaza and because of the one way system leave me even nearer on the way home. I have a short walk through the sugar cane if I get the 22 and the 71 stops directly outside the school on its way to Poudre D’Or. The only white people I’ve seen on the bus were two Italian tourists, going for a look round the Pamplemousses Garden and that was mid-morning not long after we arrived here and I was going to Northfields to get things ready for the start of term.

I read that the average wage here (and sources of course vary, although the very tongue-in-cheek islandcrisis.net is a blog worth browsing) is around the 8-10,000 rupee mark, and I also read that doctors get 25,000 rupees per month so I really can’t sniff at my salary which when we add Laura’s income to, makes it very liveable indeed. It is of course going to be difficult to start with, but hopefully with time we can build a decent life here. I’m told by Laura’s family members and also Northfields staff that things are changing here and of course if we subscribe to the inevitable progress of man theory (one that is hard to believe sometimes given man’s propensity to self-destruct or inflict war, death and global warming on each other) then things will eventually get better in terms of not as many people being poor.

Some areas, I’m told, are no-go, certainly after dark. I love to go walking, besides the obvious fitness benefits, and find out more about my immediate surroundings and find out more about this beautiful island. I love to just stand and watch the weaver birds at work, the red-breasted fodys, the thousands of geckos here, the many types of butterfly. I also love to go up in to the mountains and I also find a walk late on in the evening helps me come up with some good teaching ideas, so its quite disappointing when Laura advises me not to go out at certain times, but I bow to Zaza superior knowledge. Such is the ineffectuality of the police (again, see islandcrisis.net for a great story about Quatre Bornes police who told a bus driver who had just been hit by an irate passenger to go and chase the perpetrator themselves if they wanted to do something about it – surely apocryphal even by Mauritian standards) that even though I promised Laura I would go out empty handed leaving my wallet, keys and everything else here, she still wouldn’t let me because people will attack me first and ask questions later. Tourists are indeed regular targets – I enjoy reading L’Express and its really helping my French (which is standing still really as I spend all day speaking English at school) and once per week at least there will be a story of a tourist couple who were mugged, the latest being a Swiss couple who were relieved of 52,000 Rupees – 10 months salary for someone working in a shop!

Talking of thefts, no-one can make a phone call to or e-mail Northfields at the moment. Neither can they contact Ecole du Nord or IPS for that matter. The reason for us having no contact with the outside world is because someone stole 3kms of cabling from the Mapou area. Apparently they dressed as a Mauritius Telecom working party, lifted up one manhole and cut the wire. They then drove to the next manhole and using a truck, wound the cable up and off they drove. They’d done it at Baie de Tombeau a few months back and got away with it. Those in the know say it will take a week to get normal service resumed – Laura found this out the hard way as on Friday she was trying to call me saying she was outside and ready for the cocktail party. She didn’t know there were no phones as I hadn’t been able to phone her to tell her. A certain irony there of course.

The Northfields PTC cocktail party was certainly a good event, although it was a long day as I stayed from 3pm until 6.30pm. I got a lot of marking done but it was rather boring, much as Eamonn’s collection of cheesy music kept me company. Laura looked stunning, as usual, and the company, food and wine was most pleasurable. Laura got to meet most of my colleagues so can now put names to faces and I met some of the parents who seemed to think I was doing a good job. Clive Barnes even went as far as to thank Laura for “bringing him over” as he “likes what he has seen so far.” Long may this continue and, as at Biddenham, I was strive to try my best. It does make all the hard work worth it and its nice to be appreciated once in a while. The Phoenix, wine, cheese and seafood snacks flowed freely and all too soon the Zaza family taxi was waiting. Jacob and Amélie were staying over at Jennifer’s house, so we had some rare time to ourselves in the evening!

The weekend was certainly relaxing, starting with a trip to the Post Office to post some stuff back to the UK including an optimistic claim to get some income tax back and my latest student loan payment. Dhorene and Bruno turned up later and asked if we wanted to join them on a trip to Les Halles, the new shopping complex in Phoenix. Its certainly a little more upmarket than most Mauritian shopping experiences although I got some decent trainers in ‘Mr Price’, which almost lives up to its name. Bruno and Dhorene have one of the Baobab shops there and had to take some stock there (the others being in Caudan, which Laura is currently running, Flic en Flaq – Jennifer’s domain – and Grand Baie, sadly not staffed by a Zaza, but I’m sure Bruno and Dhorene are working on it). The end of winter sale was on and it was good to see Baobab goods flying out the door. It keeps Laura in a job.

From there it was an about turn north to Grand Baie which was having a late night shopping event, music on the beach and lights on boats etc. It was packed out unsurprisingly. There is a real buzz about Grand Baie and it really is the place to go for a night out, the only real place on the island where there are clubs, restaurants, bars and cafes a plenty. Tourists flock there so you have to be wary as you can get right royally ripped off, and there are a couple of sleazy areas too. The Super-U hypermarche was open late too so we were able to get a few things at the ‘crazy’ hour of 10pm. We went back to Calodyne and stayed chez Dhorene. I can see why the likes of Gerry and Kate Young live there – it is certainly more relaxed than Port Louis and I can see why Laura is more than happy to take up Dhorene’s offer when she asks if we want to stay. That said, I kind of the like the craziness of Port Louis. I am still to work it out – how can it be so chaotic and yet work so well? Its like a hotter, dustier London I suppose.

Grand Gaube, where Bruno, Amélie and I spent Sunday afternoon couldn’t be more different. It is seen as the ‘real Mauritius’ although there are a couple of hotels even there now and we were by no means the only white faces. Land and houses are cheaper here, reflecting the somewhat isolated nature of the place, and there isn’t huge amounts to do. We went to see the regatta, a race of traditional fishing boats with sails. It was a real Mauritian event – the beach was packed and there were plenty of food stalls and a band playing seggae (a mix of Mauritian séga and reggae) on a ramshackled stage on the beach. Bruno was happy because the Baobab-sponsored boat won, and I was happy because I spent an afternoon marvelling at just how beautiful this part of Mauritius was. Even Amélie walked quite a while and didn’t moan. You mention the word beach to her and she is more than happy. Jacob stayed chez Dhorene and ended up quite sunburnt after being in the swimming pool too long (surprise, surprise, against his parents advice)

We came back to some shocking news – Roxy, one of the guard dogs had died in the night. No-one is quite sure what happened and it was a real shock for me – he had been staring me out and barking loudly at me Saturday morning as I swept the yard. To see him trussed up in an old rice bag out the back waiting to be taken away was a real shock. Yvon had given him a bath on the Saturday evening and that was the last anyone saw of Roxy… It’s a reminder of how random it all is. Lucy seems to be settling in and enjoys playing with Milou, the other guard dog. She is so friendly and even pops in from outside in the middle of the night, demands a stroke on the head and then goes back to her box and blanket to sleep. She’s taken a shine to the old row of seats at the back of the yard and seems to have made them hers.

The weekend ended as Mum called with very little news of the UK, other than incompetent banks who cannot seem to change addresses even after the third letter and e-mail saying you are abroad. Mum said the weather had been nice but was starting to turn autumnal. Its starting to turn here too – into something much hotter. I hope I can get used to it, and I did spend the afternoon in trousers, socks and shoes acclimatising. So far so good then, a repetitive theme, but I am not naïve enough to know there won’t be bad times. Long may they stay at bay…

GOAL!

2009-09-30T18:14:00.002+01:00

I pass this building every day on the bus and I really, even though I don’t suffer from asthma, want to go in and try it. I imagine it to be a Heath Robinson type machine sitting in the middle of the lovely blue tiled building I pass every day on the way to work. With all the fumes floating around from some of the buses, Dr Yeung is probably a busy man. On the occasions I’ve had to be driving I never like to see a bus coming the other way as you know you will be soon driving through a thick black plume of smoke as its exhaust fumes drift across on to the other carriageway. That said, I couldn’t knock the buses. They haven’t let me down yet, although of course there was the time the Delhi Express nearly prevented me from getting to work after an over zealous driver hit that motorbike outside the Pamplemousses Gardens. Its not on the 22 or 71 route but I do often see the bus adorned with the Q&Q travel logo. The two Qs of course standing for quick and quiet, neither of which they can genuinely claim to be true. Teaching with the door open can also be entertaining. A passing 71 will happily beep its heart out while I’m trying to explain the intricacies of Marxist interpretations of the causes of the First World War.

On the weather front, it’s been cold and wet for the past couple of days and I’ve even resorted to having to wear a long sleeved shirt to work this morning. Mauritians climbing on board the 22 this morning – the one which still has Happy Christmas stenciled all over the cab – looked very cold indeed – some even wearing coats! But I know I will be thankful for this come December when I will be sweating like mad as the middle of summer hits. Time for linen trousers? Thanks to the Sixth Form staff at Biddenham I already have the Panama hat.

Indeed, Martin Webb who has been here 8 years, since Northfields started in fact, (in a very small house on the opposite side of the road which is now a nursery), says it is always around bonfire night that things get hotter. Obviously its not because of the bonfire, but moreover because summer is on its way. I say ‘summer’ but in truth it’s the hotter of the two seasons here in Mauritius. I am looking forward to the month-long Christmas break, but the weather will take some getting used to. Anglo-Mauritians who teach here say their parents won’t visit in December and January as its so hot. Something I will have to get used to if I want to stay here, which so far I most definitely do.

My settling in period continues and it was done no harm last night by me scoring on my debut for the Staff XI against Ecole du Nord. We won 5-0 and I couldn’t have wished for a better debut. In the warm up they spotted I had an eye for goal so I played centre forward and within one minute of the start, I latched onto a poor backpass and rifled the ball home into the far corner. Not bad, and in truth I should have had a couple more but I was happy with my performance – all that walking up mountains with Yvon has paid off. The bounce took a bit of getting used to as the grass is that bit harder here. We were assisted by some very useful sixth formers who definitely look the part and its thanks to dedicated PE staff like Yvon Emile that they are so good, as well as their own dedication. The only problem is they don’t have that many teams to play against – and I find this odd because the island is soccer mad. A little bit of a push in the right direction and this enthusiasm, not to mention skill, could be put to some good use. Likewise the driving, likewise the piles of rubbish everywhere – with just a little bit of action from the authorities, change could be possible.

Northfields’ Head Clive Barnes came down to watch the end of the game and we got chatting about the changes. Mr Barnes said its amazing what you can achieve in such a short space of time – not that long ago, Northfields didn’t really have a field. Now there are football pitches, a rugby pitch, cricket nets on the way, jump pits etc. Add to that the growing size of the school and staff and the new buildings and you really start to see what a driving force Mr Barnes has been. I find it a real shame that he has resigned and that he will be leaving in July. The school have to get the right person in to replace him and that is not going to be easy.

Some things that don’t change include the sugar cane being harvested by hand – by the time we have snaked through the densely populated Terre Rouge and Pamplemousses in the morning and are out into the countryside its still not quite 7am and yet in some of the fields people are already hard at work and I watch from the bus window as they hack away at the sugar cane, armed only with a machete. Its not something I would like to do, and something I was keen to point out to the students. Form III are covering the slave trade at the moment, and its made even more poignant with the many reminders of that horrific episode in history that still exist around here. Indeed, being able to look out of my classroom window and merely point to the sugar reminds us of the past.

Its definitely harvest time as there are noticeably more lorries on the road, all heavily overloaded and ready to shed their load on the unfortunate bus that happens to be following them – hopefully not a no.22. They are pretty aged lorries too – Bedford trucks in fact, and they look old enough actually to have been made in Bedford – and that was a while back before everything moved to Luton.

Lucy seems to be settling in – she’s even enjoying playing with Milou, one of the guard dog’s here. She’s not yet been allowed to meet Roxy though, the other guard dog – but that’s not something any of us really like to do as Roxy is, if its possible with dogs, clinically insane. He has to stay tied up for his own safety, let alone anyone else’s. Poor little Lucy would be eaten alive and that’s not something I wish to contemplate. Jacob and Amelie love her and are giving her loads of attention, and Lucy seems to like it – in fact, for a rescued dog she’s wonderfully calm and friendly. A bit like most Mauritians really…

A DOG'S LIFE

2009-09-26T15:04:00.000+01:00

Its six weeks today since we arrived in Mauritius so I thought it was time I added to the blog. I’m sorry to have neglected it, but teaching once again, as it did in the UK is taking over. Even with much smaller classes it still takes time if you are in any way conscientious. Thanks for all of your comments and e-mails – I’ve been amazed by how many people are reading it and thanks to people like Tania from South Africa for their encouragement.

In terms of teaching, GCSE marking is less time consuming as my Form IV and Form V’s aren’t huge groups but lower down the school the classes are as big as back in the UK – certainly in Form III where 3A is 22 and 3B is 24. I have the delight of teaching history to every lower form group – 1A through to 3B and then also 4s, 5s and the IB to lower 6th. History is seemingly one of those neglected subjects on the island, and I am left thinking if it is because the common misconception is that there isn’t much history in a small island (1,872km² to be precise) that wasn’t even inhabited until 1598 when a Dutch ship landed in what is now Grand Port.

Although Arab navigators added ‘Dina Arobi’ to their maps in the 10th century and the Portuguese changed the name to Ilha do Cirné (Isle of the Swan – maybe a reference to the Dodo?) in 1511, it was the Dutch who first tried to make a go of living here. Then of course came the French and finally the Brits. Looking round Jambo hypermarket today, I was left thinking thank God the French did come, as most of the hypermarket’s produce was clearly influenced by our cross-channel cousins. Incidentally, I was in Jambo today because I have been paid and its not a bad amount once allowances and responsibility points have been added. I was very pleased to be able to get World Soccer here, albeit a little later than elsewhere. Its 331 rupees so at touching £7 it’s a luxury but reading it with my feet dipped in the pool at Dhorene’s place in Calodyne was fantastic as usual.

To me then, it is even more important on an island like Mauritius to get people knowing their history. Not that long ago, certainly in the case of the Mauritians in my class, their ancestors were toiling away 12 hours a day in the roasting sun chopping down sugar by hand. I’ve seen it done first hand and it is not something I would like to do. Students here need to know why they speak creole at home, read newspapers in French and do their written work in English. They need to know that Mauritius is playing a key role in the world and they need to know the history of Britain, France, the USA, African countries and beyond. That is why I have tried to make the syllabus more ‘international’, but it is hard – anyone know of any textbooks that could internationalise our curriculum a bit. We cover South Africa, Mughal India, the French Revolution, slavery and so on but any more suggestions would be welcome!

We also now have ourselves a dog – thanks to Kate from Northfields – who put a notice up in the staff room saying she had rescued dogs to give away. A quick trip to Trou aux Biches from Dhorene’s in Calodyne saw Laura instantly fall in love with one of Kate’s dogs she wanted and that was that. So now we have a sort of sausage dog called Lucy, although Laura’s sister Jessica instantly christened her ‘saucisse’ which I think might stick.

Driving is still hair raising and despite government claims that they are clamping down on the problem, I am not sure I want to get a car. Driving in the countryside, of which there is a lot, seems safe enough, but once you hit (not literally?) Terre Rouge the journey gets a lot scarier and you have to concentrate all the way down to Sainte Croix. Motorbikes undertake you, pedestrians walk out in front of you, cars overtake you while you are overtaking a bus or a sugar lorry. Its crazy. And people continue to be killed. It turns out the lorry that smashed into the bus killing four people in Pailles had brakes that were not fully working. I mean, can you imagine it?

I still can’t get my head round the microclimates – it can be raining in Curepipe, cloudy in Blue Bay in the south and baking hot in Port Louis in the north. We were at Jessica’s in Curepipe last weekend and again were treated very well by Jessica and Patrick, and much whisky was consumed in the Manchester derby. You can actually feel it getting colder as you climb out of Port Louis on the motorway towards the central plateau. Likewise, on the return leg, on a Monday rather than the Sunday we’d planned because the government suddenly (and rather nicely) declared a public holiday for Eid on the Monday, you know when you are close to Port Louis as it gets hotter and stickier. Such a small island, such diversity. I think that sums it up rather nicely in fact.

ON THE BUSES...

2009-09-18T18:02:00.000+01:00

Well, its Friday so that must mean I have survived my first two weeks! It’s certainly been tiring – getting up at 6am is proving slightly more difficult as time wears on and the novelty wears off – even though the fact it is quite warm and very bright by then does help. I’m slowly beginning to get the hang of things at Northfields and I have even received a couple of compliments on my style of teaching, albeit from colleagues whose offspring I happen to teach GCSE History too. It does seem a touch surreal being all these miles away from the UK but still using the same worksheets and textbooks I was using back home but it really has helped me with the transition. Outside of the school walls its all French and creole, dust and dirt, crazy driving and temples, but once inside those gates its like a very hot version of the UK.

It seems I spoke too soon about there not being accidents. Just after I wrote that, there was a nasty crash in Paille, near Laura’s aunt Ivy, where four people died when a lorry ran out of control and smashed into a bus. On the same day there were two other accidents with fatalities. The government response was typically Mauritian – lorries not to be on the road in busy hours, police patrols to be stepped up on the motorway, neither of which happened. And just on cue, I was involved in a bus crash too. The Delhi Express, or the No.22 to Grand Gaube to you and me, was clearly being driven by a madman on Thursday. I noticed this driver was driving more quickly than usual and, although it hardly seems possible, more dangerously. Indeed, he attempted a ‘double’ – a term which here means overtaking a vehicle that is itself overtaking – on more than one occasion, I remember a slight panic as we overtook a bus that was overtaking a sugar lorry. On a bend. If something else was coming the other way, that would have been it. You know something is wrong when even the conductor is chastising the driver. This only seemed to give our driver encouragement. Sure enough, just outside Pamplemousses Gardens, we hit a motorbike and God only knows how the motorcyclist survived as the bike went right under the bus. We weren’t allowed off the Delhi Express until the police arrived by which time all the passing busses were full of schoolkids and therefore not stopping as there was no room. Panic ensued as I realised I had neither mobile nor Northfields’ phonenumber. I ran back to Pamplemousses and allowed myself to be right royally ripped off by a taxi driver, although it was only 200 Rupees. When relaying this story in the staff room, I was mocked by many of the Mauritians for paying so much but in my defence I pointed out I had to pay it – if he’d charged me 500, I’d have had to pay it, heck, even 5000, as I had no other work of getting to work on time. You gotta love the busses here. No prizes for guessing which bus turned up at 6.45am this morning? Yes, of course, the Delhi Express, complete with massive dent in the front and the same driver/conductor team. I nearly passed their generous offer to take me to Mapou, but I figured lightning can’t strike twice. I saw at least two passengers cross themselves as we came up to the accident site in Pamplemousses. The driver, although he had his moments, seemed to have learnt his lesson. Its just par for the course here – one thing made me laugh on the way back from Winners (the supermarket in Terre Rouge) this evening was seeing a bus, on service and full of passengers, stop for a top up of diesel in a service station. Only in Mauritius some people would say, but its things like that that make me fall even more in love with this island.

AT LAST SOME PHOTOS

2009-09-15T18:14:00.010+01:00

Most of these are on facebook, but of course, not everyone in the world is on facebook so I thought I'd put some on here! The picture above is of course sugar cane - 90% of the island used to be covered by it and I'm sure the percentage is still pretty high, although at least in the 1980s the government had the sense to diversify. My morning walk from the bus stop in Mapou to Northfields isn't far which is lucky but it does take me through fields of the stuff which towers above me.

As those of you who are following the blog know, we've spent a lot of time on Mon Choisy beach - a Zaza family favourite and a good choice too - its large and not too busy. Here's Amelie enjoying the white sand... Needless to say Jacob and Amelie adore being on the beach, and there are always tears when we have to leave...

As you can see from the above photo, we are eating well! The KFC here is a little bit spicier and those of you who know me know KFC is one of my vices - that said, we've only been there twice... The food that Laura or her mum, or often both, produce is sublime and there's no end of fresh marlin and tuna. There's hundreds of snack stalls by the road too and I've got into bad habits of stepping off the bus on the way home and picking up a 'pain frie' or two to munch on for the last few yards to home. At first they didn't even bother asking 'avec piment?' - as a muzungu would of course never dream of adding the chili accompaniment to the fried bread... as they got to know me, and put up with my really bad French accent, they now dollop it on automatically. Its a taste sensation. Don't even get me started on Dholl Puris... Amazing... especially if washed down with a can or two of Phoenix.

A PAIR OF BLUE FACED BOOBYS

2009-09-09T15:26:00.002+01:00

Manage to sleep right through the mosque’s 5am call to prayer and was instead woken by the chattering of birds and the sound of church bells, bringing upon a quick flashback to the UK! There was a big vigil at the Pere Laval Church last night – it happens every 8th September – and as the church is in Sainte Croix you could hear most of the amazing choral singing coming from there last night. It was live on MBC3 too but I couldn’t stay up all night to watch it – it goes on a long time, but is of course an important date for Christians across the island.

Talking of the chattering of birds, bird life is not as varied here as perhaps one would expect. Few indigenous species survive and those that are thriving here are those that were introduced by various visitors – sparrows, pigeons, mynah birds from India and the village weaver with their simply amazing nests, woven into intricate basket-like nests from grass. It is a joy just to sit on the beach and watch them at work. Its mainly seabirds like that wonderfully named Blue Faced Booby and the Green-Backed Heron that I observed patiently fishing at the Pamplemousses Gardens with much success. Another striking bird is the Madagascar Red Fody, the male of which has a striking red head and looks like I imagined tropical birds to look like. The red whiskered bulbul is also one to watch out for – with its red face and spiky black hair!

The most famous indigenous bird is long gone of course. The Dutch called the dodo “wolgwogel” or “bird of repulsion” and diaries from the likes of Jean Albert de Mandelsco who travelled to Mauritius when it was Dutch observed that the dodo’s flesh “is so tough that not heat can cook it.” The Dutch still found it entertaining to kill them all though, and archives do show some meat was salted and taken on boats where near-starving sailors would presumably eat anything on the voyage onward to India. With historians believing it took the Dutch just 60 years to get rid of the flightless wonder they must have been killed off at a remarkable rate. It’s incredible to think that the dodo had no natural predators so they had no fear of humans, having lived for millennia in peace on an uninhabited island. Pink pigeons almost went the same way too, until the Durrell Foundation stepped in and the Mauritian Kestrel was brought back from the verge of extinction as well, with only six surviving examples recorded in 1974. Luckily the number is a lot higher today and you can see quite a few at Casela Bird Park – my favourite exhibit there is the huge cage of fruit bats!

To be fair to the Dutch they did bring in deer and sugar cane from Java, two things which have helped modern Mauritius – a trip to the cerf (deer) boucherie is well worth it. No need to say any more about sugar cane’s contribution to modern Mauritius, although its interesting to note sugar cane was first planted because it is one of the few crops to be cyclone-resistant!

Other things discovered today were that Kiwi Fruit squash is lovely, the pain au chocolat served in the school canteen at morning break are warmed for you and for those of you who have watched People Like Us, you will be pleased to know there is a People-Centred Learning building under construction in Sainte Croix. Life imitating art and all that… Lets hope England beat Croatia tonight too.

Went on the strangely named “Wonderful Life King Robert II” this morning – wonder why anyone would call a bus this, but indeed they have. In Riche Terre I go past the wonderfully named “Bob Catering” offering to cater for all your needs. I will bear them in mind for next time I need catering. I managed to get a lift back with Jean-Luc, the Design Tech teacher who lives in Pointe aux Sables and goes through Port Louis on the way home. He dropped me off in Riche Terre, a less than salubrious suburb with a mainly creole population, clearly at the bottom of the social pile and seemingly a million miles away from those I leave behind at Northfields who tell me stories daily of their driver, their maid or the new wing they are having added to their houses. It does look like Northfields are going to offer bursaries to poor but able children so that should allay some of my guilt somewhat.

One final thought – are all South African teenage boys built like brick shithouses?

I'VE RIDDEN LOVER BOY

2009-09-08T16:18:00.000+01:00

Getting fully into the swing of teaching – second day completed and so far so good. The students are lovely, although rich doesn’t necessarily mean clever. There are many nationalities here and I have to remember just like at Biddenham English is a second or even third language. Its going to take some time to pitch the lessons right and with years 7-9 having 40 minute lessons, I’m having to cut down on some of the chat. Teaching Theory of Knowledge for the IB is proving interesting and this had led to some fascinating discussions over whether or not what we think we know is true. Some still need a prod though – privileged and pampered lifestyles don’t always produce the hardest workers. Indeed, getting them to see school as a place to learn rather than see school as time preventing them from being at their beach houses is a key challenge, as Clive Barnes often points out! That said, I’ve seen some very good work from them, certainly from the IGCSE groups so far.

I’m led to believe we have the offspring of quite a few of the families in Mauritius’ Rich List at Northfields and many offspring of ambassadors, entrepreneurs etc. Indeed, seeing some of them spend one quarter of my monthly wage in one day at the tuck shop takes some getting used to, but hey I didn’t come here to be rich. Northfields is clearly modernising and realises it needs to change in certain ways. Indeed, we were treated to the rarity of a visit from Brett Childs, Chair of the Board of Directors after school who put our minds at rest by setting out the way ahead, even to the point of offering bursaries to poorer able children on the island. Its going to be a time of change at Northfields, but I sense its for the best as it modernises even more. I hope I am right…

I had the luxury of taking the car today. Laura finally persuaded customs to release our shipping, and I managed to find the box full of teaching resources. Dhroene lent me one of the Baobab Nissan Micra fleet (or Nissan March as they are here) and I zipped off through Riche Terre and onto the motorway, getting to Northfields far too early, just after 7am – I left at 6.30am just as I would if I was on the bus, just in case. I would like to point out the power steering was broken BEFORE I took the wheel. It did mean I missed my usual ride on the 22 or the 71. Bus travel is very cheap and cheerful but some of the buses are not in the best of condition. I doubt any of Northfields’ students have ever been on a bus, but if I’m on the 22 to Grande Gaube it quickly fills up with schoolkids. The buses are painted in many different ways – apart from Triolet Bus Services who stick to painting all their buses grey and red and give them numbers. Other companies paint them in all kinds of schemes and give them great names. I’ve been lucky enough to have travelled on ‘Lover Boy’ – I’ve ridden Lover Boy gags anyone? – and the strangely named Air Lufthansa, Germany World and Nose Gay – I think its something to do with horses?

Perhaps in honour of the racing at the Champ de Mars (the oldest racecourse in the southern Hemisphere) which took place in the pouring rain on Sunday. Horse racing is very big here, even though it is all fixed – as Roland, Laura’s uncle (and former teacher) said when he was round here for the big bash on Sunday to say goodbye to Clara and Justin and to belatedly celebrate my 33rd and Ivon’s 60th birthdays. Talking teaching with Roland was interesting. He is certainly from the old school when it comes to class control. Much as I like Roland, I was left thinking that education has thankfully changed all over the world. Who knows, maybe our liberal listen to the kids, interact with the kids, shock horror encourage the kids etc beliefs may be shown to be wrong in the long term -certainly the Daily Mail would criticise these methods as contributing to the break down in society (and doubtless a fall in house prices) but for the moment I think it’s the best approach to take. Life is tough enough and we need to give them all the opportunities we can.

ITS A CONSPIRACY...

2009-09-06T17:16:00.000+01:00

One of the first things to strike me during my time here was the lack of clocks and watches – but I think I am slowly finding out why. You certainly don’t need an alarm clock – you have a choice of your local mosque, crowing cockerels, shrieking mynah birds or laughing geckos. Take your pick. I prefer the geckos – although it took me a while to work out what the laughter-like sound I kept hearing in the middle of the night was.

It’s a cold, windy and wet Sunday morning, so what better to do than to update the blog – it of course means I can avoid lesson preparation for my first day teaching at Northfields after Friday’s training day. It was good to learn that staff meetings are the same the world over. We were meant to finish by 2pm but were still going strong at 4pm. Professionalism prevents me from commenting too much, but what I will say is that the staff look like a good group with high morale and Northfields itself seems on the up. I have a classroom in the brand new build and Jacob enjoyed helping me unwrap the plastic covering from the chairs and tables as well as the brand new furniture in my office. I even have a phone so I believe that classifies me as being somehow important. Most of the posters and other things I brought from England survived in tact and are up on the wall, so generations of Northfields students can now discuss my much loved quote from Hegel, “All we learn from History is that we never learn from History.” Class sizes are good and resources at IGCSE and IB are good – lower down the school will need to be looked at in due course.

The weekend was spent at Calodyne with Dhorene, Bruno and Valentine. Clara, Justin, Anya and Alexander return to the UK today, so we had a bit of a typical Zaza get together – it was also Loic’s birthday. Other than the kids spending hours in the pool, the day involved good food – particularly fresh pork brought by Laura’s brother Jean-Paul, which was marinated in a secret Zaza recipe. Laura made some lovely salads and it was of course all washed down with plenty of Phoenix, claret (thanks to Bruno) and the evening ended with cigars (not for me), Calvados and I’m sorry to say folks, me getting thrashed by a Frenchman (Bruno) at chess. Hang me as a traitor… Even the geckos were laughing at my first attempt. The second game lasted a bit longer but Bruno told me I was being too defensive. I need to attack more. Talking of attacking, the England vs Slovenia friendly was not on TV here, hopefully Wednesday’s big one with Croatia will be.

During Saturday’s festivities Ivon and I took time out for one of our Saturday walks. Its certainly entertaining as Ivon holds forth on everything and I nod and try to find some sort of French to reply. Having lived on the island for 60 years, there isn’t much Ivon doesn’t know about getting places – he knows all the shortcuts in Sainte Croix and Port Louis and seems to know most of the population too. In Calodyne it was no different – we trooped through endless sugar cane fields, up farm tracks, through fields of tomatoes, cauliflowers and marrow-type vegetables. I would have easily got lost but not Ivon. We walked about 6 miles in total, often taking a large detour if Ivon spotted a papaya tree, us ending up with quite a collection by the end.

During our walks, one thing I notice is the generation gap. We walk past many half-built houses and Ivon often comments how easy it will be for us. Simply get a loan, and build your house, slowly, slowly… If only it was that simple. When we were first looking at coming here we were quoted 5 million rupees for something not hugely upmarket. I’m not too bothered where we live, but Laura having grown up in Sainte Croix and Ivon and Gladys’ rather basic house, wants something more. I understand – at Calodyne the pool is a nice luxury but basics like a shower that works all the time rather than the intermittent one here at Sainte Croix are a must. Ivon looked lost when we were in the huge hypermarche at Grand Baie, Super U, whereas I was more at home. Conversely, watching Ivon wheel and deal at Port Louis market shows how it used to be done. Supermarkets and out of town retail centres are creeping in over here – and the associated dangers and socio-economic issues. What is interesting is that on the application form for a Mauritian passport you can either sign or give your thumbprint as many of the older generation are illiterate. I saw this with my own eyes in the MCB in Mahebourg where an elderly lady withdrew cash and used her thumbprint rather than signed. It’s a stark reminder that not that many generations ago Ivon and Gladys’ relations were slaves here. These days the literacy rate is quite high here, in the 90% region, but there is still a long way to go. Education is sorting itself out – but you still have the crazy situation where exams are all in English – when Laura first told me years ago, I didn’t believe her, but despite most students speakin Creole and French, they have to sit public examinations in English. They still have the eleven plus, which of course decides your whole future at the age of 11. Its something I would like to investigate further, indeed even get involved in, but one thing at a time. I need to ease my guilt of working with advantaged kids somehow…

Driving here is of course an experience. Not quite Mumbai, but not far off. I’ve borrowed various cars at times and its not too bad around the emptier areas – Calodyne, Pamplemousses etc but get into Port Louis and you are dicing with death. Cars pull out of side roads without warning, buses beep then overtake and its your job to get out of their way, mopeds weave in and out of traffic. It’s a wonder that there aren’t more accidents. In Athens, I was there a week and saw three serious crashes. Perhaps the fact that because of congestion no-one is going very fast at all in Port Louis reduces the figures?

We spent Tuesday and Wednesday doing the last few ‘admin’ things – checking our shipping off with customs and enrolling Jacob in a Primary School in Coromandel. Its quite a trek from Sainte Croix but its by the Baobab factory and so there will always be a Zaza in situ! Jacob’s class has two teachers permanently in the room, one a native English speaker and one a native French speaker. We were shown a bit of a lesson and I was impressed with their progress and how the students were able to switch between English and French. Getting Jacob to be bilingual can only be an advantage. It seems much of it is learnt by rote, but at home we can get him to think about the things he has learnt. Fees are 3,500 Rupees a month so its ‘mid-price’ bu when both Jacob and Amelie are there, 7,000 Rupees per month is one-fifth of my salary. Unsurprisingly customs didn’t find much to charge us for – nothing in our boxes is new and its largely toys and teaching stuff. Also unsurprisingly it took them just up to the deadline to check our stuff – from Monday we get charged a late fee of 300 Rupees per day for storage. When did they ring us up to tell us our stuff was ready? Saturday 11am, when they close at 11.30am and they just knew we couldn’t get Bruno’s truck into central Port Louis in 30 minutes. I just think it was coincidence – it would be too cynical to suggest a conspiracy!

Teaching proper starts tomorrow, so I am sure I will have more to say then! Until then, I have not much to do other than watch the rain teem down – oh yes, and prepare a few lessons WITHOUT powerpoint facilities…

BUT OF COURSE, THIS IS MAURITIUS...

2009-09-01T13:50:00.000+01:00

Our time in Curepipe all to soon came to an end – today we headed back north to Port Louis and back to Laura’s parents’ house. Once again, we’ve been very well looked after, fed and watered very well and Jacob and Amelie have had lots of time playing with their cousin Maeva. Patrick has been a legend this week. He is old enough to be Jessica’s dad, but I’m not commenting on their relationship. All that matters is that we’ve had a few whisky and cognac fuelled conversations on almost everything and it has really helped get my French back on track. He is the archetypical Frenchman, proud of his roots in Pau in South West France and spending evenings regaling us with stories of his time in the French under-19 rugby team, his rise to the (almost) top of French politics and his time on Nigeria and Angola with the oil industry. He was also a teacher and this is something we also spent hours talking about. He has a cigarette almost permanently on the go, a whisky or coffee (or both) and of course he holds forth with authority. Even though we are in Mauritius, things have to be done the French way – breakfast is baguette and cheese and we’ve been treated to some amazing pork dishes and prawns, all cooked with garlic, parsley etc rather than chilli as is the norm here. All of this has of course been washed down with a good selection of wines and the occasional Cognac or Calvados and more discussions about Communism, capitalism and Mauritian Hindus! The wine, much to Patrick’s consternation, is from South Africa, but still it is wine so the Frenchman is happy. Much of what he says is very tongue in cheek and in short, its been a great week for philosophising.

One of our trips from Curepipe was the short trip down to Les Halles, a brand new shopping mall at Phoenix, the town containing the most important building on the island, the Phoenix brewery. Les Halles is aimed at the slightly higher end of the market and is symptomatic of the investment Mauritius has been encouraging – before last year, only Mauritian citizens could own land. As far as I can make out the law was changed as part of the realisation that sugar money wasn’t going to last for ever. Diversification is a good idea and the government have been encouraging other industries – including financial services. Hopefully they won’t make Britain’s mistake of moving totally to financial services, although in Ebene Cyber City the skyscrapers are going up and Barclays, HSBC, Price Waterhouse Coopers, Accenture etc are moving in. If you want a job in a call centre there’s plenty going here too. Les Halles is part of this and is evidence of a modernising Mauritius – but there is of course the worry that these out of town retail parks will ruin the traditional town markets and shops in Mauritius – where have we seen this happen before I wonder? Anyway, it was a reasonable way to pass the morning. There is a Baobab shop there too – a sign that Bruno and Dhroene’s business is thriving (let’s hope because its who Laura has got a job with!)

After Les Halles is was an afternoon at the High Commissioner’s House in Floreal. Things like that impress me for some reason but we were only there through total fluke – I was at university with Sarah Murton nee Harvey who is married to the High Commissioner. It was great to see her again after such a long time, although a bit surreal to be in such lush surroundings and talking about mutual university friends! She offered me some good advice on living in Mauritius and in return I offered my musings on teaching as Sarah is to start a PGCE on their return to UK. It turns out that Clive Barnes, Principal of Northfields, has often visited through his role as secretary of the English Speaking Union. It is a small island in more ways than one. It was exciting to be in a place that oozed so much history – the cannon on the front lawn being one such interesting item – and we were well looked after. Unsurprisingly, John and Sarah had a function to attend in Tamarin so we didn’t stay too long, but it was great to know I have an acquaintance outside of family on the island.

Thursday was my birthday and I was woken by Jacob, Amelie and Maeva singing Happy Birthday and giving me cards and a keyring that Laura and Jessica had been working on, in the style of their arts and crafts project. I have been very impressed by the things they are producing and if there is any justice in the world their business will take off. We had a lunchtime picnic at Blue Bay, right down on the south coast of the island, close to the airport at Plaisance. Indeed, you drive right past the perimeter of the airport where I noticed three men in Arabic dress filming the airport from the runway. I assume they were tourists, but of course they’d be shot if they were doing the same thing in England. Blue Bay was quite hot which was a surprise as we were 20kms from Curepipe where it had been chucking it down. Indeed, Curepipe sees lots of rain this time of year – more than a couple of times we got soaked. We dried up again quickly as its very ‘hot’ rain, but its still quite grey and not hugely pleasant to go out into. Its an example of the microclimates at work – Curepipe is fairly high up on the central plateau so it can be raining heavily there whilst on the beach it is roasting. I’m told Curepipe is the place to be in December and January where the climate is bearable. That cheered me up a little.

In the evening Patrick treated us to a meal at Salaam Bombay in Moka, a very nice Indian restaurant, so much so that almost all of it was taken over by a delegation from the South African embassy. I was tempted to ask if they had a few tickets going for the 2010 World Cup but they looked busy. We had a wide range of food, with the fish curry being my favourite (obviously…)

Saturday seems to have developed a nice routine – 1) climb mountain 2) eat fresh fish 3) watch three premiership games back-to-back. Today’s climb was to Trou aux Cerfs, the extinct volcano in Curepipe. It certainly is a sight and it is here where Mauritius was made. Jacob came with Patrick and I and got quite excited to be walking on a volcano, adding that we would have to run quick if it erupted! It crazy to think I see more live English football at the weekend here than I would at home and I’m certainly getting used to it, although to see Rooney dive to get a penalty wasn’t especially pleasing. I did like Arshavin’s attitude though – he’s learnt the English game well. Despite Fletcher handballing AND fouling him in one go, he knew he wasn’t going to get a penalty at Old Trampford so he scored a wondergoal instead. Saw the Man City game on the Sunday too – don’t care about the ethics of it all, another team to break into the Top Four will make the Premiership a bit less predictable.

Opening a joint bank account is still proving tricky – the MCB (Mauritius Commercial Bank) was our first port of call, seeing as Laura already has an account there and we have put 20,000 Rupees in there for starters. I am under no illusions this is going to be easy – that is why I was shocked the first Monday we were here and the immigration chap seemed to be so relaxed. First of all MCB wanted to see my residence permit. I had to explain that I need a joint account in order to get a residence permit. I then handed over a apostile sealed birth certificate, marriage certificate, proof of address, passport and proof of employment. This apparently wasn’t enough as our teller went off for a chat with about five or six people before coming back with the answer that “she didn’t know if this was enough just to get my name added to Laura’s account” and the manager would have to ring us back. Its that famous Mauritian bureaucracy – based on Indian bureaucracy where no one can say yes straight away because that might actually let the customer get what they want – that famous Mauritian customer service they boast about in the tourist adverts! We thought it might help us if we went a bit more international, so we tried Barclays across the road – hey presto, one joint account – just wait five working days for it to become operational. In the meantime MCB got back to us and said that after all we could have a joint account – if I can get an original copy of my employment letter, as at the moment I only have a photocopy. Luckily our friend at Immigration let me leave my application forms and paperwork with him whilst I strive to get Laura’s account put into both of our names at the MCB. I feel like we are moving forward anyway – he has all he needs except one piece of paper which is a gettable piece a paper too.

Amelie is not too well – we all had a very nice day with a picnic on Mon Choisy beach yesterday, clearly a Zaza favourite, and of course many hours were spent looking for tek-teks for that old family recipe tek-tek soup. Tourists were giving us strange looks as the marinated pork came out of one bag, a salad from another, the dressing from yet another. Afterwards Laura washed-up the plates, in a device she’d clearly copied from when we were camping in Great Yarmouth. Hmmm… Mon Choisy vs Great Yarmouth. Hmmm indeed. Despite hats, copious amounts of suncream and being covered up, Amelie seems to have got some sort of sunstroke – she had a temperature and a runny nose and certainly wasn’t her usual busy and defiant self. For 500 Rupees Amelie got an injection to protect her against anything flu-like (the hype over Swine Flu is itself an epidemic and the nurseries are still closed!) and the consultation itself cost 200 Rupees. Not much for us of course, but it’s a fair whack for most Mauritians. Talking of nursery schools, up in Terre Rouge there are two – one called Paradise Angels and one called Bimbo. To me, they sound more like escort agencies, but perhaps that says more about me.

Another visit to Northfields followed – me being very proud that I went all the way door-to-door myself. Its not a huge island, but getting places takes time and I anticipate leaving Sainte Croix at 6.30am every morning. That doesn’t scare me as much as it would in the UK as things run down a lot earlier here. Its dark by 6.30 and not much is open after 4pm, unless its Grand Baie and the tourist areas or supermarkets. People tend to go to bed a lot earlier and get up earlier and public offices – e.g. the Post Office – open at 8am. The early starts suit me as the temperature is bearable. Indeed on Sunday, Ivon and I were in Port Louis market at 7.30am and it was that rarest of things – cool and not very busy! I met more staff at Northfields who once again seemed friendly and relaxed and I’ve been made to feel very welcome. I also met Kevin Erskine, the new Head of ICT, who I’d been in e-mail contact with. He uttered the words, “You’re lucky you’ve got a Mauritian wife.” For all of my complaints about the slow process of permits and paperwork, it seems as if it is even harder if you are here as an expatriate, and getting harder too. Hopefully now I have a letter from Northfields, an original, signed by Clive Barnes and with the school stamp on, MCB will finally let me have a joint bank account and the residence permit application will be complete. But of course, this is Mauritius…

A DROP IN THE OCEAN

2009-08-25T17:49:00.003+01:00

A change of scene for the weekend as we headed north from Port Louis to the small village of Calodyne on the coast, about 30kms from the capital. We went to stay with Laura’s sister Dhorene, her husband Bruno and their daughter Valentine. Calodyne wasn’t even on my map, albeit a tourist map, but on arrival I think it was deliberate as it seems to be an enclave of rather large houses owned or rented by rather well-off people who perhaps don’t want tourists to know it is there – possibly the parents of my students-to-be? Dhorene and Bruno won’t mind me saying that Baobab, their clothing company is doing well at the moment and therefore we were well-looked after. Seeing all of these people I know well and have spent time with before is easing the transition but for some reason I keep thinking I am in France – I suppose speaking French all the time perhaps tricks me into that, as well as hearing it on the TV all the time (I sometimes watch BBC World but that gets quite tedious as it appears to be on loop) and of course there is huge French influence on the food – il y a beaucoup de pain, vin rouge etc. More than a couple of times I have asked how many Euros something is, much to a shopkeepers’ consternation. Dhorene’s house has a pool so we managed to spend some time in it, even though it was a little chilly – yes, the word chilly hasn’t entered the realms of this blog yet it I have to admit it that in the pool it wasn’t exactly hot. Still it is winter…

One of the highlights of the weekend was a walk down (albeit with Jacob, Amelie, Kimmie, Anya and Valentine in tow) to Calodyne public beach, which takes the form of a small bay. The bay was perhaps ironically what the guidebooks call the ‘real Mauritius’, unspoilt by tourism and very quiet, serene even, with the only sound being the gentleness of the waves washing up onto the white sand. Bruno told me that during the week all you see are fishermen, fishing in the traditional way and once again got me thinking about the price of progress… One way you could of course measure progress is the fact Mauritius has a stock exchange which many Bedfordians will no doubt guffaw at as it is called the SEM. Other things that we most definitely won’t laugh at are the Hungarian restaurant in Grand Baie called Unicum, the car hire firm called Nads and what of course seems a most unlikely scenario – Darren’s Fashion Emporium.

Much marlin, beer and conversation (most of it in French with Bruno about the state of the world’s economy) followed with the next highlight being a trip (again!) to the beach at Mon Choisy on the Monday, which turned out to be a public holiday as it was the Hindu festival in honour of Ganesh. Not huge amounts took place during the day – it was hot and Jacob, Amelie and Valentine spent most of the day paddling. The grown ups spent the day occasionally paddling but largely sat on sun loungers watching the world go by, reading and talking. Laura and Dhorene spent ages trawling through the sand for tek-teks, small clam type creatures that Dhorene turned into a very nice soup later in the day - Rick Stein would be proud! All seemed too good to be true – and it was. When it was time to go home, we discovered one rather large problem. The key to Bruno’s truck appeared not to be where it should. As you can imagine, panic followed and all kinds of plans were hatched – it’s a small island in the grand scheme of things but I didn’t fancy a walk from Mon Choisy back to Calodyne. Everything – phone, money etc – was locked in the car. When Laura told me to “go and look in the sea” I really thought she had gone stark raving bonkers. I mean, what are chances of finding a car key in the Indian Ocean. Incredibly, after about five minutes of searching I heard Laura call over from her ‘sector’. She had only gone and found the key. What were the chances? Ok, this is Mauritius and you can see the bottom of the sea – but still… Maybe good luck is looking after us?

An early start followed on Tuesday and it was time to play ‘Musical Sisters’ as we moved from Dhorene’s in Calodyne to Jessica’s in Curepipe. We stopped off first at the Baobab factory in Coromondel, just outside Port Louis. I was honoured enough to be offered a cup of tea in the boardroom but that’s about as far as it got. Seeing 40-odd machinists in a line churning out t-shirts and various other garments was interesting enough – and something I imagined to be out of the 1950s, but it also reminded me how Britain doesn’t seem to produce anything anymore, having firmly placed itself in the ‘services’ sector and hence why the recession will last longer in the UK than anywhere else. This was a theme returned to when Bruno gave us a list to Curepipe, where the three grumpy old men – Bruno, myself and Jessica’s very socialist French partner Patrick, sorted out the world’s problems over a strong coffee, some pain and a gitane. Ok, Bruno no longer smokes and I never have, but I didn’t want to ruin the stereotype…

Curepipe, reached by a detour through Ebene Cyber City, the future of Mauritius, where HSBC, Barclays etc are building huge erections (at least Mauritius has had the sense to diversify) is on what is called the Central Plateau so it is noticeably chillier up here and also wetter. Indeed, there was torrential rain all through Wednesday, although it didn’t stop us going shopping and picking up Empire Strikes Back, Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom and Quantum of Solace for a mere £2.50. Curepipe, in a conurbation with Rose-Hill and Quatre Bornes, is Mauritius’ second largest city, and shopping there is an interesting event – the place seems to have received lots of funding from Indian investors in the 1970s and hence lots of bizarre looking concrete monstrosities posing as shopping centres. It seems wherever you are in the world, concrete and the 1970s leave their own indelible mark. It doesn’t seem to have changed hugely since 2005.

Again we’ve been very well looked after and its great while it lasts but soon there will come a time when we are on our own! Being in Curepipe gave me a chance to get in touch with Sarah Murton and we’ve arranged to meet up tomorrow. It’ll be good to see her – I haven’t seen Sarah since we left university in 1997. I can’t get used to the fact that it therefore 12 years since I graduated… that makes me feel old. Anyway, as Sarah’s husband is the High Commissioner here, I will be looking forward to some hints and tips on how to survive here – and of course, I expect to be given Ferrero Roche on our arrival. We’ve been looked after very well since we’ve been here, but that really would be spoiling us.

ONE EXTREME TO THE OTHER

2009-08-21T12:37:00.001+01:00

The last couple of days have been ones of extremes – firstly was yesterday's trip up to Mon Seigneur Leen, up in the foothills to the south of Port Louis to see Laura’s Aunt Ivy - and then today my first meeting with Northfields where I was informed that some of our students go to Dubai solely for a shopping weekend. Yep, teaching at Northfields is going to be a lot different to teaching at Biddenham. I don’t want to say too much about Aunt Ivy’s place for fear of coming across as patronising but in short, its little more than a cramped shack where her and her brother, the legendary Uncle Rico live. There isn’t huge amounts of space and the kitchen doubles as dining room and bedroom. There is an outside toilet that seems to be falling down and washing up has to be done at an outside tap. Yet, her seeming ‘get on with it and smile' approach to life really hit a chord with me – I feel a rant coming on about the decadent West, but Hitler has already beaten me to this one. I can think of a few people in Castle Road who would do well to worry less about material things and focus on things that really matter. I think in some ways we've lost touch with what really does matter and that is reflected by the society in which we live. On first reading that may appear dangerously right-wing but I think you know what I am getting at.

To preach would be totally hypocritical though as a) I like my gadgets, although this laptop is as slow as a car in rush hour Port Louis traffic and b) materialism is not absent in Mauritius. People here, just as the world over, think a big car or house means they are better. Would it be arrogant to say that I believe it covers their lack of the one thing money can’t buy – intelligence? Yes, probably, so I won’t say it.

Ivy provided us with some lunch and then it was a bus ride home – I’m getting used to these and whilst well-to-do Mauritians will think I am crazy, I am more than happy getting the 22 or 71 to work. We are aiming to get a car in the fullness of time, but today, my first visit to Northfields, was by bus. Ivon managed to get some time off work – slightly easier if you daughter is the boss I suppose – and came with me. He’s lived here 60 years and if anyone knows the short cuts in Saint Croix, its him. Thanks to his advice I will normally take the short cut across a football field, but I needed to post a letter so we had to go past the ‘many drug men’ as Ivon described them. He was describing a bunch of people with the familiar drug addled faces shouting at each other and gulping down their methadone freshly distributed from the pharmacy. It’s the same the world over - in desperation people turn to drugs to help them out of a seemingly desperate situation. Indeed, some of the staff at Northfields seemed little short of horrified that I was living in Sainte Croix, believing that I wouldn’t be living there for much longer if what they had heard was true. So far, so good though – a theme I seem to be borrowing from La Haine. Sainte Croix doesn’t seem to be that bad – I’ve had more intimidating walks through certain parts of London. Ivon told me not to take my laptop bag as people would think there was something of value in it, although there would be some very disappointed thieves if it was to be stolen – unless they liked reading about Higher Level History IB, which was all there was in it today.

The bus took about 35 minutes, snaking through Terre Rouge, Triolet and the town of Pamplemousses with its famous botanical gardens where I saw a few more white faces as the gardens are a big tourist spot. The gardens, or more correctly the 37 hectare Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens were laid out by Pierre Poivre, one-time missionary, horticulturalist and French administrator of Mauritius and Bourbon (now Reunion of course) in 1770. This makes them the oldest botanical gardens in the southern hemisphere. A keen horticulturalist, Poivre came upon the idea of laying out formal gardens to showcase local species and the gardens now contain nearly 90 varieties of palm, the famous huge water lilies, which legend has it can take the weight of a human. One interesting point is that many of the palms have been planted by famous people – Princess Margaret, Indira Gandhi and erm.. Robert Mugabe.

After the town of Pamplemousses, you’re really in the sugar cane fields and they are all you see until a large stadium appears from over the horizon – the Mapou Stadium, which hosts major international athletics events and some football games, although internationals tend to take place at the Stade George V in Curepipe. It’s a useful landmark because that’s was when I knew to get off the bus, walk down a lane where I was dwarfed by sugar cane on both sides, and I was there.

I’d arrived early so had a chat with Meena and Tracey, both of whom had been very very helpful in even getting me this far. The friendliness of the place hit me straight away and it wasn’t long before I finally got to meet Mr Barnes, whom I had only previously met via webcam when I was having my interview via Skype way back in February. We had a long chat, joined by Tammy, who has been at Northfields since its inception and is currently heading up both English and History departments. Mr Barnes’ warmth, humour and vision was evident straight away and he was able to put me at ease. He has a wealth of experience and it looks like this is a good time to join Northfields as it is on the up and up in terms of numbers of students applying, buildings and resources. I got a tour of the school and could see how it has grown from a small colonial style house to the current campus with brand new ICT suite, science labs and sports facilities. A swimming pool and running track are on the way. My room has just been built and I will be the first person to teach in it – the honour! Its not quite as big as R4, where I was teaching in Biddenham, but its not far off. I also get an office and I will also be the only person at the school solely teaching one subject – everyone at the school who does history, from Form I through to Sixth Form, will be taught by me. Lucky them. All 270 of them – its not a huge school! It also turns out Mr Barnes is Secretary of the English Speaking Union so also knows Dr John Murton and his wife Sarah, whom of course I was at university with. It is indeed a small world.

Its also, as I said earlier, a different world. The students I will be teaching are going to be from a different socio-economic background to Biddenham. My favourite story was Mr Barnes’ one about the kid who goes shopping for the weekend with his family – to Dubai. Almost everyone he told me about was the kid of, or in the case of staff, wife, or daughter of this politician, that lawyer or this entrepreneur. I was also told not to worry too much about busses – Mr Barnes’ driver Christophe is often in Port Louis and can give me a lift sometimes. All very different from being up at Aunt Ivy’s yesterday. I left very excited and eager to start. We said we wanted a different life when we left Bedford, and it looks like we are going to get it. As I keep saying, so far, so good!